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RWG Technical

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Everything posted by RWG Technical

  1. The ETA 7750 series are all the same sized hands, 0.25mm for center seconds, 0.18mm for subdials...older or newer models. Yes, it's sort of a secret sauce for the installation of the hands from any newer Asian 7750's that have all 0.20mm hand sizes. I have a couple of things I do to get them to fit, nothing affects the future disassembly or servicing of the watch, I have yet to run accross any Asian 7750 powered watch that I could not replace with an ETA. A HBB should be on the way to me sometime in the next couple of weeks, and then I can put to rest the "rumours" of this one being non-upgradable...I'll believe it when I try it. RG
  2. Pix found the link. The only "issues" with the Asian 7750's seems to be a lack of proper servicing and adjustments, once clean, oiled and adjusted, they work fine... RG
  3. I don't know how many times we have to have posts like this for members to realize it's not a good idea to go into an AD. Why anyone would do this, is beyond my understanding, but then again, I dont' understand why people post reps on the gen sites...and bring more unwanted attention to our hobby... RG
  4. I returned the watch yesterday...so I can't do anything now... RG
  5. You can relume any pearl, the only problem is if you can't remove the bezel/pearl, then you have to destroy the glass piece that is over the existing pearl. If you can remove the bezel, then you can remove the lume from the bottom and retain the glass, if not, you just make a new clear cover with liquid plastic. The PO I just lumed the dial on, had the pearl re-done. RG
  6. The lume is quite transparent, it could probably be done with a bit of paint, and then lume applied over it... I was not asked to add the marker so never gave it a second thought. RG
  7. Thanks for the comments, glad you like the results. RG
  8. That's how I see it as well. If you want to maintain the correct dial to datewheel spacing etc, then the simple solution is to see what type of wheel you have, and have the correct one sent in for that particular watch. RG
  9. That was the possibility I assumed. But when I tried to install one last week (with the recess), and the one in the watch was flat (2893-2) I informed the owner. He wrote to Finepics, who said that I did not know what I was talking about, and added this: So from that quote, I would be lead to believe that 2836 datewheels are being sent out for 2893's, after all they are identical... Since I was told that I was not correct, I took pictures of my 2893-2 wheel which is as flat as can be, with no recessed teeth, and showed it next to the Finepics one which had recessed teeth. If you read the above quote, there lies the problem as far as I am concerned, misinformation. Which is why I said earlier that he's sending out 2836 datewheels for the 2893, because he claims that they are the same...other than the Chieftang one pictured above, I have never seen a 2892 or 2893 with a recessed wheel, they are all flat in my experience... I do have a new 2893-2 in house now, that I will open and look at soon, and maybe it's got the recessed one, but based on what I have seen so far, it's probably flat. This is not a mix up, or a gen vs copy issue, it's the fact that there are many variants in these movements, and you can't assume that everything is the same just from looking at one or two watches. If I order a 2892 or 2893 datewheel from my supplier, I get a flat one, there are no options for others...and each and every 2892 series I have seen, or have in my spares bins is flat. So it would appear the recessed ones are not the norm, but the exception. What should have been done, was to find out what style the owner had in his watch, and send the correct one, flat or recessed. RG
  10. Your welcome. If you look over the post I linked above, you'll note the transfer gears are above the datewheel, which is why the datewheel is sunken. There is no fix for this, and a 7753, as stated above does not have the same datewheel as a 7750, so it's not a possibility either... RG
  11. The Chieftand one is the first I have seen of the 2892 series that is not a flat datewheel. All the ones I have in house (genuine 2892 movements) as well as every one sent to me, including the 2893-2 models, have flat datewheels, and the ones being sent out have the lip on them... So far my success rate installing them is 0. I have another one in house now (2893-2), and will try it over the weekend to see if it fits. RG
  12. It depends on the watch, the problem is the datewheel. If you have a Asian 7750 with a date modified to be a 7753 (subdials at 3-6-9), then a ETA 7753 will not work, because the date window is in the wrong place. If you have a date movement, then you can replace the 90% of the movement with a ETA 7750. Here is a post on how to do this. Replacing a Asian 7750(3) with a ETA 7750 If you have no date, then you can install a ETA 7753, but since a 7753 is $500 -700 (if you can find one), it's cheaper to install a ETA 7750 ($250 or so) in place of the Asian one. How much it costs to install it, depends on the Asian movement in the watch. Installation can be from $100 - 200. I have installed many ETA 7750's, just did two as a matter of fact, I will post some pics this weekend. RG
  13. Well it should arrive in your hands in the next few days, I hope it looks good when you see it in person... I totally forgot the "before" look, I like the after look much more. RG
  14. Wonderful, thanks. Cant' beat AirMail for shipping to the EU. RG
  15. @ steveG and sportsterrider. Ok, well it seems as if I am not the only one who is confused. If indeed the point is that I am profitting of board members, then I would say that statement is out of line. How offering a service, where people freely decide if they want to have it done or not, with the costs clearly posted up front, is considered a bad thing, then I am missing something. Maybe we'll get clarification on what it really means. RG
  16. I am not clear on what this means. I read it three times, but I dont' understand the meaning, I must be loosing something in the transelation in my brain... RG
  17. DLG, so happy to see you post again. I wish you a speedy and full recovery, my thoughts are with you, and I hope you find time to participate on the forum. Best wishes, RG
  18. Scratching the dial is poor workmanship, dust can be blown off, saying it's acceptable to have dust on the dial, is poor workmanship... Find another watchsmith. RG
  19. All valid points. I think we need to be a lot less tolerant of the trolls and those that are here to stir things up. Why we continue to allow posts from members who's only goal is to try and entice members to destroy their watches is beyond my understanding, I have zero tolerance for that crap. RG
  20. Well as soon as they turn the watch over to open the caseback, they will know it's a rep. It's unlikely that they have an actual watchmaker on site, and will probably send the watch out for repair. The genuine crown will not fit the case tube (at least none I have ever worked on fit), so not only will you need a new crown, you'll also need a case tube, and the genuine tube will not fit the case without some rework, more suprises for the watchmaker...and then the stem will need to be replaced as well, since you have a Seagull movement, they won't have the stem for the watch...etc, etc... I think you stand a good chance of loosing or having your watch permanently damaged if you leave it with them for repair, not only that, but the watchmaker is not going to be prepared to modify the case to accept genuine parts...especially if he's working for a genuine Omega dealer. Very risky at best to proceed with this, taking any rep to a Genuine dealer is always a BAD idea, especially so if your expecting them to fix it for you...I would like to hear how it goes when you drop it off for repair. RG
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