RWG Technical

The one in your picture is an ETA. The one in the first post is identified as a "CLONE 2824", which it is not, it's a DG something or other, not a SW200, which is the Clone 2824. Don't even get me started on the Lemania 1874 copy, or the Unitas movements...why can't they just get it right, it's not that hard to do... RG

If memory serves me well, the Copy 2824 Selita movement was bought from River. I am not certain of this 100%, but it was not a set up by any of the dealers here. A member bought it, and I had posted that I would service one of these and review it for the members on my tab, to whoever was the first to send me one. The member who contacted me first got his serviced... I think the fact I did a positive review of a COPY 2824, has simply allowed someone to use this term liberally, and maybe use the fact that I did a favorable review of it, as a way to sell it...is this a good thing? Not in my opinion, since the movement shown here is not what has been identified as a Copy 2824. RG

My review of the movement labled "Clone or Asian 2824" was from a Submariner. It was sold as having this "Clone" movement in it, and it was the Selita SW 200 model. The one shown here clearly is NOT a SW200, but then again, the Omega Aqua Terra has been identified as having a Seagull 2892 COPY in it, that was months ago, but if you surf the sites, it's still listed as an ETA...go figure... RG

Are you confusing manual winding, with automatic rotor winding. No movement winds with the crown manually in both directions. Some automatic movements are bi-directional in winding. See my signature below, basics 101 and 102 should cover it, as well as the glossary. RG

Ok, it keeps on doing it for me today again...or the web site disapears all together. But I have no problems with any other web site I log onto. Thanks for the feedback, just one of those things I guess. RG

I think the DG series are "OK" movements, if price alone is a deciding factor, they run in the $14-20 range...for a bit more money, I would replace the DG with a Genuine Miyota, since I think the Miyota is a much better quality movement. The Selita is a good movement, I have seen a number of them, and they appear to be fine. RG

You may be able to upgrade it to a Genuine Miyota 8215 movement, it's a real workhorse. Unlike the other part of the horse being used in the adverstising... RG

I thought you would recognise it... Great speaking with you as well, excellent customers like yourself will always have a spot on my workbench. Having the privelage to help you out with these projects, is a real treat for me, especially vintage chrono's. RG

This has been going on for 2 days now, all the time, when I try and read a new page of new posts, click on a post, click on my pm's etc...no matter what I do, it comes up. I try again, and it's fine, then I try, and I get this error. Any idea why? Thanks. RG

My first post explains how the pushers are attached, and your picture confirms the type of attachment. How to repair it and access it, has not changed from my first post. RG

The bezel removal issue is normal on these models, they are on harder than the hinges of hell, and virtually impossible to remove, without serious damage to the bezel. You did not say "why" your trying to remove the bezel. If you want to remove the bezel to remove the insert and realign it, the best way is to remove the movement and the crystal, then you can access the insert and pop it off... The HE valve is a common problem, I lost the one on my SMP chrono, and there have been warnings from many members, myself included, to make sure your HE valve is glued in place (I find this the best solution). The replacement part from Cousins will be a genuine one, and it's tube is not compatible with the tube you have on yours, and will require machining the case to get it installed. Some HE valves are simply crowns installed in the HE position. Not bad luck, just normal stuff for a rep. RG

Very informative TTK, and well said. RG

Normally the pushers are installed one of two ways: 1. A "C" clip on the end of the pusher. 2. A screw that screws in from the inside into the pusher on the outside of the case. To work on the pusher, you need to remove the movement from the case, so you can reach the screw or "C" clip. There are various posts in the how-to section on removing movements, if your not experienced or dont' have the tooling to do this, it may be best to have someone who does do the work. The 7750 is not a simple movement to take out of the case and depending on the pusher arrangement, case ring etc, it can be a bit daunting. RG

REF: are there other watches with misrepresented movements in them? Yes there are... The Omega Aqua Terra listed as having an "ETA 2892" in it, has a copy Seagull movement, and it's been and continues to be listed this way. RG

Yes, you can move lever "A" towards the other lever "B" and this will make it run slower. DON"T Touch lever "B" it's the beat one... The best way to do this, without damaging the hairspring, is to remove the rotor and autowinder bridge. In my subforum, there is a post on replacing the rotor. The only thing not covered in that post is the autowinding bridge. To remove the autowinding bridge, remove the rotor, then the two "Black" screws you see holding the bridge in place. When you install the winding bridge, put in in place, install the screws but don't tighten them, and turn the crown like your winding the watch, and make sure the autowinder gears turn, tighten the screws slowly each one, and turn the crown to make sure the gears stay connected to each other. Then install the rotor as shown here. Link As always, use a loupe and good tweezers when you adjust the arm to avoid damage to the hairspring. RG

It may not cost $2 (I picked that number out of the air), but certainly not more than $10. I can buy DG 2813 movements from my supplier for just over $10 each, and they are good quality movements. I can also buy similar types of movements to this one for under $10 each... This one was not near the quality of the DG 2813, so if a DG 2813 sells for $10, how much would this one sell for? Along with the problem with the balance wheel, when I tried to install the stem, the keyless works popped out of place due to poor design and parts quality, and I had to take the watch apart and fix it. The fact a movement runs at 28,800 bph, does not in itself make it a good movement. RG

The movement in the B&R was no thicker than an ETA or Seagull 2892. The 2892 is one of the thinnest movements produced today, and the Seagull copy is identical to the ETA one, so I am confused why this $2 movement was chosen over the Seagull one. ETA I can understand the problem getting them, Seagull, well they sell to anyone dont' they, and they are brand new movements, not surplus ETA ones... I have no idea what is going on anymore, and why and how it got this way, or what the solution is. Certainly I am not prepared to police the movements being offered and analyse each and everyone and provide feedback. It's got to change at the source. This is not hard stuff, simply describe without BS what is in the watch, and provide a DETAILED picture of the movement... RG

This is what was inside this watch: This movement was DOA on arrival at the customers house. It was sent to me to see if I could install an ETA 2892 in place of the "Clone" 2892. This movement is as much of a "Clone" of a ETA 2892, as I am a clone of Brad Pitt...aside from the fact that we are both males and have dinks, there are no similarities. Calling this a "Clone" 2892 is simply not true. The movement pictured above is not a clone of anything, it's a $2 movement. The reason it was DOA, was due to the fact that the balance impulse jewel was out of the pallet fork. Of all the watches I have ever worked on, not one had this problem. Why? well in a well designed modern movement, there are two safety devices that prevent this from happening. In other words, any half decent movement made should never have it's impulse jewel come out sync with the pallet, this one did, do the math... The fact is that the movement is cheaply made, not compatible at all or even close to an ETA anything, and certainly not a clone 2892 as claimed here in the explination given earlier on this subject... Well the last part of that statement is true, it DOES look different, I'll give them that much... This statement is not true: The Seagull 2892 is IDENTICAL to the ETA 2892. Well actually, I am all too familiar with these movements, they are available for $2 a gross, and are unbranded cheap movements, there are good asian movements, and there are those like you see here, these ones are poor quality.. It was DOA, due to a defect in the design, that does not speak well of it's quality...of the fact it's being labled as a Clone of an ETA, when in fact it's not even close... You couldn't put a cheaper movement in the watch if you tried. RG

The DG2813 is nowhere near the quality of the Miyota 8215 in my opinion, I would install the Miyota for that fact alone. The Miyota does NOT hack, but the quality is excellent. RG

I have been waiting for a datewheel for a customer's watch for weeks, it was sent out a long time ago (or so I am told) but nothing has arrived yet. During that time, I have gotten stuff from the UK and as far away as Australia, so it seems as if the postal system is working... RG

Without a watch analyser to show the beat and rate, your really shooting in the wind when it comes to adjustments...some have good luck and end up with a really accurate watch, others never get it to run accuratly. If the beat is out, then it's going to be inconsistant in running. The analyser allows you to see and determin the condition of the movement and all the moving parts. It can also tell you if there are any defects, and if it's in need of servicing, etc. The movement is most likely a surplus one, as they all are, so good chance that it's been broken in a long time ago. Break in is not really an issue with a properly serviced movement, since the pivots are all oiled correctly and running in a film of oil, with proper oiling, nothing wears out and nothing changes...there is nothing to break in, certainly not like pistons lapping themselves to the cylinder walls following a rebuild. Without knowing the condition, or if the beat is adjusted correctly, if the movement is clean or dirty, oiled or dry, old mainspring or new one, it's very hard to get any idea on what is going on, if anything. The normal way to adjust a watch, get the beat right, then adjust the rate to about 10-15 seconds fast per day. Let the owner wear the watch for a week, then see how much it's off, then make adjustments to compensate for and consider the wearing habits of the watch owner, and then it will be accurate. Wearing habits have a huge impact on timing, simply adjusting it will not make it more accurate, you need to consider the effect that the owner has on the adjustments and rate, and then compensate for them. You may have to adjust a watch 30 seconds fast per day on the timer, for it to run even on the wrist... Remember though, that a standard ETA 28XX model is designed to be no better than 20 or so seconds per day...any better than this, and your above the average. It's all in the expectation, if your expecting more than the movement is capable of delivering, your going to be let down. With a clean well oiled and adjusted watch, you can get amazing results. My 1962 5508 Rolex is within a few seconds per day, not bad after 45 years... RG

Not a practical mod, the hands wont' fit, the movements are different sizes, the attachment of the movement to the case is not the same etc... If you wanted to install a better quality movement, then installing a genuine Miyota is the best option, as the majority of asian movements are copies of the Miyota, and therefore avoid the problems of parts not fitting. RG

$4500 + 15% tax where I live... $1900 US, that's a great price, well worth it in my view. RG

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Well nanug you got it exactly on the situation with the old lume... There was a fine line between removing the old crud, and destroying the dial, so I found what I thought was a compramise. As soon as I started to apply the new lume, it would pick up some of the old crud and that's why you see a bit of discoloration around the edges...but I think it turned out really nice. I used my 5508 with the gen tritium as a guide for colour. I think I have some pictures of it in detail, I'll have to look and see if I took some. RG