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RWG Technical

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Everything posted by RWG Technical

  1. You need to find out if it's fully wound before you can do any troubleshooting. Since this is a uni directional winding model, and the rotor tries to take the path of least resistance (ie the NON winding one), it's probably not getting fully wound while you wear it. Try hand winding it (slowly) at least 30-40 turns on the crown, do this before you go to bed, and leave the watch alone. Note the date and time you did this. Leave the watch alone until it stops, if it runs for 36 or so hours, it's not defective... If you find that it stops during the night after you wear it during the day, a simple test is to wind it with the crown, if you wind it and it starts running, it's not defective, it's just run out of power from lack of being wound during use. RG
  2. No negative reports from the ones I serviced, some I had to remove the running seconds, some I left in place, so far, not a word that either have failed... RG
  3. Actually, that Tudor 7750 I reviewed was my own one, and I installed it into my SMP chrono, along with the genuine crown and tube etc. This is a different movement, but just as nice as mine was. RG
  4. Help my "reputation", would imply that there is a problem with it in the first place... I did not get defensive, I did exactly what was described and it did not work for me. I asked The Technician to answer two questions, and they were ignored. If The Technician can explain the following, it would certainly add credibility to his method: 1. How do you clean the sides of the mainspring barrel walls and remove the old dried gummed up grease, when the spring is held tight up against it? 2. Show us a picture of the application of barrel grease with the mainspring in place, and tight up against the barrel wall. Not sure where you saw me mention "over and over how busy and fully booked I am", it seems your making assumptions that are incorrect. Busy and fully booked can mean lots of things to lots of people. Some weeks "Fully booked" means that I dont' take in any watches at all? Why? Well because I travel for my work and have a day job, and two kids to take care of and a house to run. Other weeks, "Fully Booked" is one 1 watch booked into the shop (remember Panerailord). If your comparing my definition of Fully booked to "The Technician" who did over 300 watches in 6 months, your sadly mistaken sir. As for my "assistant" and her doing the emails, again your making incorrect assumptions. I like to fix watches, she likes to take care of emails. I do enough coorespondance in my day job, and I appreciate that I can come home, and sit at the workbench and fix a watch and relax, and not have to answer emails. Again your confusing "Assistant" with something else, she enjoys the emails, I don't. Seems as if your making wrong "impressions" and reading into my posts much more than there actually is. The fact that I book appointements, and have someone else do emails for me, and that I am "busy" only means that I am organized and only take in what I can do in my spare time. I too would like to see more discussion about servicing, until my questions that I asked again above are answered, I have little faith in the swish and dip way of servicing watches. If you looked at my pictures, you decide if your mainspring can be cleaned and greased - while it's still installed into the barrel... If you consider that I was right about Joe, please think back about all the crap that was dished my way everytime I tried to show the truth about that situation. Including the many members who were sending me their watches to fix after the "works package" disasters, the many emails and pm's that were sent to me complaining about broken promises, watches held hostage for months, hell even years, etc... Last week even the Admin of the board confirmed that he too, was getting the same messages from concerned members. I stood by my comments for months, and during that time I was crapped on by members like you, I finally gave up...months later the same problems surface, and the Admin of the forum confirms what I had been saying all along, what does that tell you? I was crapped on by many members for speaking out when I did. I am speaking out again, but according to you "this one SEEMS to know a few things" and again, your crapping on me...now I know why you have been on my ignored and blocked list for a long time... Let "The Technician" speak out all he wants, this is an open forum, he claims I am a fool, and an old man, so it seems that he can type. I really look forward to him showing a watch done his way, and I REALLY look forward to his showing me the mainspring clean and grease. All anyone is asking is for clarification of procedures that have been shown not to work. But then why believe me, go to TZ and post the "swish and dip" question over there, and get answers from those who really know... RG
  5. Glad you like the results, it's a really nice watch. RG
  6. Not really, I am not sure what the thinking was... BUT as luck would have it, guess what arrived in the mail yesterday?? Yes, one of these very watches, for a full service, so I will post some pics later next week of how they did the center seconds, I still believe it's just the chrono on at all times...but we will see later this week... RG
  7. Try cleaning it with a lens cleaning cloth, they seem to do the best job of all, don't use any cleaners other than the mist from your breath on the crystal surface and it should come out clean. You should use a blower on the inside of the crystal first to make sure there are no particles. RG
  8. I totally missed this one... If it has a 7750 inside the watch, then: - the center seconds are nothing more than the chrono being ON all the time. There is already a center seconds transfer gear system, the chronograph gears. It is impossible to "modify" a 7750 to make it have center seconds without using the actual chrono functions. And if you already have center seconds, why would you remove the parts and install new parts, to achieve the same effect - namely center seconds. - The quote from my review of the 7750 is taken out of contex, if you read the whole post, basically it says this: "Running the chrono ALL the Time, will NOT wear anything our, NOR will it affect the power reserve..." If this is the new A7750 at 28.8K, it should be smooth as it's 8 beats per second, if it's the older version (which is what I suspect), then at 6 beats per second, it can be a bit rough. However, there is an adjustment on the engagement of the tilting pinion to the center seconds gear, if this is out (on most every A7750 I service, it's not adjusted correctly) then you will have jerkiness due to poor engagement of the teeth. Never had one pass the work bench, but this arrangement would not concern me, since the A7750 even with the chrono ON all the time, is as reliable as with the chrono OFF... Hope this clears up and answers the questions raised. RG
  9. Yes the rotor could be touching something. Righty tighty, lefty loosie...you should get a LG Watch Wrench, but some folks use other ways to open the caseback. Normally you cant' get this one open without a tool. RG
  10. It's Asian for sure, but I think this is the one the dealers are calling the "Asian 2813" or whatever. From what I know, that movement is an indirect center seconds model, so for them to get the seconds at "9", the must have added some gears, which would explain the jerkiness... Normally the second wheel is at the 9 position anyway, so if you want seconds displayed there, you install a hand on the end of the post, just like in a 6497 movement. The basic movement would not be running this jerky, not normal at all, so I think you have extra gears which are causing the jumping hand. RG
  11. Any idea as to the movement in the watch? That is way too jumpy for most movements except for the lower quality asian models. Any pics of the movement? RG
  12. It's certainly not normal, but as to the cause, it could be a number of things, most likely one or more of the case clamp screws is loose and it's rubbing against them, or it could be something else loose in the case. Best to open the caseback and find the problem, if a screw falls out and gets into the movement, it could cause expensive damage. RG
  13. Paneari153 is a Doxa fan. I have restored many of his models, including a "one of a kind, only known copy to exist in the world" one...and he had to tell me this as I was doing the work...talk about pressure. That model made it into the Doxa book by that Doctor fellow. Here is some of one of the restorations I did, not sure what one this is. I even repainted the bezel numbers, BEFORE. AFTER. RG
  14. Interesting, I never tried the one dip. It takes so little time to take the watch apart, and I really like to be able to inspect all the parts, especially because it can save time if there is a defect. If I was working in a commercial shop, I may be forced to use a different approach. But for now, I am going to stay with what has worked well for me, no complaints from my customers so far... Thanks for the input. RG
  15. Acetone disolves the UV glue, but normally the glue is hardened, and I scrape it off with a xacto knife, and finish it off with a wet rag dipped in acetone. It should come clean. RG
  16. Try this test to isolate the problem... Wind it fully by hand, put it down and note the time and date, see how long it runs... Wear it and after a day of use, do the same test... If there is a noticeable difference between the two, it could be that it's not winding enough during use. If the first test shows only 24 hours with a full hand wind, then it's time for a bath as Ubi said. The 2836 should give a minimum of 36 hours of use. Another test is as the movement gets close to needing servicing, it runs somewhat faster, have you noted it speeding up? RG
  17. I can get aftermarket T21's, that from my comparison to genuine ones, are identical, they have the 45 degree angle on the top of the edge, and look and fit great. I have a couple in stock most of the time, and can always get more... RG
  18. No one would think me a fool, certainly no one that knows me. I used a hand blower since I was trying to get all the trapped rinse out of the nooks and crannies
  19. If I remember correctly, I did strip yours. I use 1500 grit sandpaper to do the stripping, and finish it off with 3600 grit. Cleans it all off. RG
  20. The letters are indeed glued on... How do I know? Well I recognized the picture of one that was just posted, as I had serviced one a while back...unbeknown to me, I threw the rotor in the bath with the rest of the movement. When I removed all the parts and dried them off, as I was putting them in the tray, I noted a letter "H", and then a "U" and then more letters...crap, I washed all the letters off... I did reglue them in place, and clear coated them to keep them secure. Embarassing to say the least. RG
  21. The timeszone school is actually a good course, took it myself. I don't remember any link between the tooling purchase and the actual course itself, from what I remember, you enrole in the course and get tools from the suggested kits if you like...or not. My suggestion is to take both parts 1 and 2 of the TZ course, and expand your knowledge from there. There is nothing else I have seen that is as complete and detailed as the TZ offering. RG
  22. Well actually most of the parts of the movement will FALL off if you take the screws out. I have no need to spin my movements dry, since I take them completely apart. You can see clearly in my photo's the condition of my non-spun dry but completely clean movement, vs yours which is still dirty and covered in residue. Given your instructions, I did even better that you suggested and blew the movement dry with my blower, and dried it on my hot air dryer, then I blew it again, and again, and put it once more under the hot air. It's as dry as it can be, yours would come out no different. So although I can't SPIN my movements dry like you do, check my results vs yours... I have 2 automatic Bergeon oilers as a matter of fact, so no problem applying oil to a jewel that is in place, I do it all the time on vintage pieces...the correct way to oil a modern cap jewel is to clean both pieces, oil the cap jewel, and assemble the setting with the oil covering 3/4 of the jewel setting diameter. Making a hairspring implies actually "making one", what it appears to be in your (non-working) link, is assembling one with ready made parts. There is a difference between assembling a hairspring to a collar and stud and actually "making" one. Assembling one and vibrating it to cut it to the correct length, is a very specialized skill, which is probably well beyond the swish and dip shop your working at. Anyone who has ever taken a mainspring out of a barrel, can attest that your method of applying the grease is impossible, please take a picture of your oiler with the tip inserted between the spring and the barrel sides...impossible to do this with the spring in place, lets not forget the old gummed up grease that is also still in place which you never cleaned off... It was my impression in reading your description, that you had outlined all the steps and all the pieces you disassemble...why would you leave out important steps. How you forgot to mention that you take off all the dial side parts, is an awful oversight on your part. So now your recanting on your earlier statements, and saying that "Of course" you have to take apart all the dial side parts using your trick. So if I follow your thinking, the only piece left that you did NOT remove, is the bridge over the motion works, which consists of two screws...and the 4 gears... so this is the time savings?? 2 screws and the motion works gears?? Wow... You had no problem typing before, why the trouble all of a sudden. I'll take my way over your way any day, and I'll bet no one who is dropping a watch off in your shop knows what is really going on behind the scenes, if they did, you would be called to task. RG
  23. I followed your instructions to the letter, now your changing them... On this model, as you can plainly see, the hour and cannon pinion will NOT fall off, they are held in place with the big cover thing, it's plain to see in the pictures. I did use L&R cleaner and rinse, it's the only thing I have in the shop, and blew the movement with my dust blower and dried and dried it... I did not use "too" much grease in the barrel wall, you forgot to mention how you remove the "OLD" dried and gummed up grease, when the spring bridle is tight up against the side of the barrel... All my serviced watches run longer than the factory specifications after I am finished with them, no slippage on my end. But dont' ask me, ask anyone who had a movement serviced at my shop. Makes hairsprings? Amazing, considering a difference of 1/10,000" in thickness of a Mainspring will equal to 6 minutes of time change per day on a movement, I am in awe that this person can fabricate a "hairspring"...I can't imagine the tolearnces it requires... There is one maker or hairsprings in the world, a member of the SWATCH group... I am not willfully ignorant in this topic, but it appears that you are. The proof is in the pictures, and if that's not enough, just "Google" watch servicing and see what comes up, better yet, post your way on TZ and watch the sparks fly. You can keep your "Swish and Dip" scam servicing, I'll keep to the real one... RG
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