RWG Technical

link broken RG

There is no adjustment for the datewheel position. The only fix is to remove the dial, hands, etc, and then remove the datewheel overlay, reglue it in the correct position and reassemble the watch. If you have never done this (and from your statement of not wanting to remove the hands), your best to have someone that can do the work do it for you. RG

Anyone who knows anything about watches, will know immediatly that it's a rep, rotor plate with "Breitling" on it or not... It's like pasting a Ferrari logo on your Yugo, and expecting people to think it's a Ferrari... RG

Since the movement is hidden from view, why would it matter if it "apear to be a real breitling ETA 7750 movement", why would you want it to "appear" to be a "Real" movement, unless your trying to fool someone? RG

Common problem, the gear that engages the datewheel is not engaging...movement needs to be taken apart to fix it. Sometimes pulling the crown in and out a few times will engage it. RG

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If you look at the movement with the stem on the right side, you see the arm for the chrono On-Off coming from the top pusher (lower one when it's upside down), there is a screw in the arm, and a hole in the arm, the hole in the arm is next to the stem center line, this is the release for the stem. The other screw is in the arm, and holds the arm in place, press the pusher and you can see it pivot at that point. RG

I was forced to do it, I know, I know, I am not proud of myself, I was young and needed the money...Oh wait, that was something else I did while in the military oops... RG

The "L" was changed to a "T" by me, I repainted it... RG

No outstanding PM's in my inbox, nothing at all....you sure you got the right name? RG

Welcome aboard. RG

The only one I carry and use, is the 8215...it replaces most of the automatic asian models out there. RG

Depending on the existing movement, the best option is to install a Miyota if it will fit... For the most part, they aren't worth servicing. RG

Enjoy wearing it. RG

Wear it well, it's a beauty. RG

I have had a number in with water damage, like this one has... You'll never restore it, it would be a total write off, I have pics of various movements I took apart following water infiltration, and you think you car rusts? You should see what water does to these small gears and stuff... It's a complete write off, not sure why anyone would pay $700+ for it? RG

Ubi is right. Power reserve has nothing to do with the chrono being on or off... Dirt and lack of oil affect the power reserve more than anything else. RG

Your right, never condidered that part...too much watch stuff going around in my head, I can't keep it all straight...thanks for pointing this out. Forget my first comments about the Miyota exchange, it could be possible, but I still think $220 extra for a A7750 powered model is way overpriced. RG

The silix one is just a plain jane asian copy movement, most likely you can swap it out for a genuine Miyota if you chose to do so, then you would not have any worries about reliability. If the 7750 powered one is $220 more that the other one, that is so overpriced it's not funny. For my money, I would get the silix one, then see if a miyota fits, the cost for a miyota including the install is less than $100, and it will work for ever...they are a great movement. RG

Can you post links or pics of the movements... There is no reason in the world for any asian movement to cost $220 more than any other...a genuine ETA XXXX maybe, but an asian movement? seems to be way out of wack to me... RG

Well after another 2 hours at the bench, I finally got the Swiss 7750 working...hands and dial installed to see if it's keeping good time... Just when you think you have something figured out, they throw me a curve ball. After modifying some parts, it seems as if I fixed the problem with the tilting pinion. So hopefully tomorrow it will be keeping accurate time, and still running. @teejay The only possible reason is that you moved the beat arm instead of the regulator one. If the beat arm is moved, and the beat is out (only way to check beat is with an analyzer) then the movement will stop running. RG

Well bad news on the Tri-Compax 7750 I got as a replacement for this watch. As I stated earlier, this is a Swiss 7750, with the same modifications as our Asian ones to make it into a 7753 layout, problem is, they didn't make new gears, so the posts for the 12 and running seconds hands are way below the dial face, which means I can't install the subdial hands. I have done Asian to Swiss 7750 swaps in the past, but on this one, for whatever reason, it's not possible. The problem is with the second gear and the tilting pinion which drives the chrono. After 4 hours of multiple disassemblies and assemblies, with various Asian parts, trying to find a combination that works, I have not had any success... I did get the chrono to work, but when it's reset, the whole movement comes to a grinding halt... There must be a subtle difference between the gears that when the chrono is Reset (not OFF as it works in this position) the gears jam up. So as it stands, it's a no-go with this particular Swiss 7750...need to put it aside, and see if maybe I can figure out something... Ah the fun and frolic of doing these mods. Wish me luck. RG

Lack of lube due to none being there in the first place, and lack of lube from it drying out. Very limited corrosion on watches, if there is corrosion, it's normally limited to the keyless works, unless it's been imersed and water got in everywhere. I see no to little damage from moisture inflitration, most of the problems are none, or dried up oils and greases. RG