RWG Technical

Follow the stem into the movement, the first screw you find that is next to the line of the stem, is the release set lever screw. This is the same on all movements, easy to remember, follow the stem line, and look for a small screw or pin and you will never go wrong... Beautiful movements, you should get clear casebacks, seems to be a shame to hid the beautiful stuff. RG

Looks great, and that is a good price. Wear it well. RG

Not a problem...maybe I'll bring it to NY. RG

There you go, bringing monkeys into the conversation, and flying ones at that...please try and stay on topic RG

A long time no see Fendi...a really long time... Agree that the seller was misinformed about the crystal and the movement. I have replaced my share of shattered crystals, so I can see your point. Understand completely your side, now that we hear it. The movement is not completely Asian, and certainly not a bad actor in my books. Easy to service and so far I have never had any issues with the movement except for the sometimes hairspring touching the balance bridge or the wheel. A simple fix, and only a problem on a few of these movements. Other than this, you should be able to have this serviced without any problems. You can pass on this info to your watchmaker if it helps...and I do have spare parts if needed, but have never had to replace any on this model. Replacing the front crystal with a davidsen is good insurance. If you can't get someone locally to do the work, you know how to reach me...have customers in New Zeland, Australia, etc, no problems with shipping. Thanks for stepping forward. RG

Bigger pictures would help, the "DM 2888 CN" are standard ETA marks, I think the DM is for the Date of Manufacture. Looks like an older version of the 2824/36 model, hand sizes would probably be the same as a modern ETA. RG

I think I have that exact same model gathering dust in my watch box...never wear it, never use it, relumed it when I got it, and haven't seen it since. Guess it will go in the yard sale box later this summer... RG

Great job. Thanks for posting. RG

Good point, I never thought of this... RG

Shouldn't you be sunning yourself just about now? RG

I use the varnish and the thinner as it dries out, adding just enough thinner to keep it liquid, nothing but what comes in the kit. I buy the stuff in bulk now, but it's the same product, bulk is 10cc of varnish and thinner. RG

Sell it to Kruzer00, his 7753 was destroyed by finepics due to a faulty installation, and you can't buy 7753 spare parts. RG

Split the dial, ie remove the face from the back...then using a yellow metal oiler, apply the lume to the back part, let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then glue the face back onto the back. RG

One of my all time favorite watches...with that 7753 in the case, it's a keeper. Great collection as well, enjoy. RG

The difference is amazing, I have my SMP chrono, and the old correct 007 seamaster with the AR crystals, and I can actually see the dials... Don't know why they don't do this on all watches, it's a must have in my opinion. RG

Most of the ETA movements I have bought from ebay were in good condition and did not require service. So it's unlikely that you would need to service the ETA right away. Unless it's dirty, I would just leave it as is... RG

That would be great, as soon as I have firm dates, I'll let everyone know...I think we could have a good time getting a few members together. RG It was not serviced, simply installed and timed and adjusted. RG

No, just because it has already been done here... Describing 10+ hours of work would take forever...lets just say I won't do it again without being compensated fully for my actual time doing the work. Replacing the Asian with an ETA... The problem is, the new 28.8K A7750 does not share any parts with the ETA anymore...so the only source for the parts is old 21.6K movements... RG

You advise someone to "dry" their watch with a smudge of moisture under the crystal, by putting it in a "warm" toaster oven with the crown open, they end up roasting the watch and popping the crystal out of place, and you never hear the end of it... The good news is that the watch is sealed well and waterproof, since the only way for the expanding air was through the crystal. RG

Most indespensible tool is without a doubt, the Loupe...without it, nothing else is useful...well except for "Joe"... RG

You know there is a gold mine of opourtunities with a tool like that... RG

Glad you like the results... The movement installation was a real challenge, needing no less than 3 A7750's as doner movements. A lot of work, and a lot of time to get it assembled, but worth it in the end. Wear it well. RG

Your not alone in wondering this... RG

The problems with the seconds at 6 Daytona's are well known and documented here (actually any seconds at 6 model is at risk, Protugese model, etc) I just finished servicing one, and the only way I could get it to work, was to remove the running seconds at 6 gears...works great now... It's no suprise that they are problematic, given that the movement is over worked. RG

It looks like the combo Swiss/Asian 6497. The mainplate is ETA, most of the rest of the parts are Asian...which parts are Asian and which are ETA, I couldn't tell you. Does it matter??? Is it less "Swiss" because some parts are "Asian"? what difference does it make. It's a good movement, and how many reports do you see of defective handwind movements? Very little to none, so what is the problem? I think your dealing with someone who has buyer's remorse, once they got the watch, tried it on, realized it was really big or whatever, they changed their mind...and they want you to pay for it, buy claiming all sorts of stuff. How many people here have a personal "watchmaker" and as soon as they receive a watch, take it to their "watchmaker" for a full analysis and examination? Think how strange this sounds, someone bringing a counterfit watch to a watchmaker to analyse it and find out if it's real? Doesn't this sound strange to you...it sure does to me... I would ask for a copy of the bill and the details from the watchmaker, how he determined that the crystal was not sapphire, and that the movement was not Swiss, etc... It's no secret what model you sold, anyone who wants to see it, and the movement in it, can visit and look at the watch on any dealer's web site. If you had sold an unknown model and YOU said it was Swiss and it wasn't, then we have a different situation. If the buyer did not do their research, then that is their fault, not yours... The way I see it, you owe them nothing as you did nothing wrong. RG