RWG Technical

1. For securing the movement I make my own Z clamps and secure them to the movement... 2. Remove the screw, that's it, the bridge comes off... Hopefully the jewels are the same diameter on each bridge, if so you can swap them. A staking tool will damage the jewels, you need a Jewelling press with the correct bits, they have an automatic centering spring so you make sure the bit is centered, and presses the jewel in place evenly... No oil on either of these jewels, no reason to oil them. You should check end play when all done as well, to make sure that the same amount is there as was before. Check and note the existing end play on each gear before taking the old bridge off... RG

I got the cousteau lumed last night, going to varnish it today, and maybe have some pics to share later...I'll try and show the varnish gloss which I had not done on the other one shown here. RG

@ slai No I don't have any pictures of that particular one...but I can take some after I finish the one I have to lume this weekend, it's going to have the same treatment. You'll have to remind me, I'll forget to take them... RG

It's always good to have a reference point, if the gen looks that poor, I think I can show off just a bit... @fxrandy Well if it required just one coat, about an hour...but it required two lume coats, and if that wasn't enough, 3 coats of clear after that was done to duplicate the shiny look of the gen. So all in all, a very time consuming job, that's not including luming the numerals around the bezel, or the dial, or the hands...doesn't take long to fill in a day's work on this one. Come to think of it, I have to do another tomorrow...better plug in the kettle, I'll need a lot of tea. @Pug I too have noted a difference in the glow depending on the light source, I find that Flourescent lights do a really good job, not sure on Halogen, as I don't have any around. RG

It's definetly the type you don't want anything to go wrong on...since you can't get parts to fix it. RG

I did not know this... I wonder if the o'ring is designed to be the waterproofing part? If so, how does it work... RG

Sorry, it's not possible to do a "poor job" like shown in your photo... Here are some pictures of one I relumed with Super Luminova a couple of weeks ago... RG

Yes, but your "In" box is full, and I can't reply...

There is only one thing that pisses off a Customs Officer more than anything else... When you LIE on the customs form. Don't lie and you won't have any problems...lie, and expect to have problems... RG

No gasket under a crystal... If it's a sapphire pressed in crystal there is a compression ring to hold it in place, for a plexi one that fits on the outside of the case, the bezel assembly holds it in place. RG

So true on all counts... Don't forget to add in the equation of those that were scammed by Mark, all the members who's 7753 datewheels looked like swiss cheeze and are now useless...I know of at least one 196/7753 model he totally destroyed due to his total lack of any watchmaking or common sense skills...and I am sure the list goes on and on and on... Karma does indeed work, but does nothing for the members who were scammed. RG

The V23/72 hand sizes are Subdials 0.22mm Hour 1.40mm Minute 0.85mm Chrono seconds 0.22mm So I would think the set from 0.05 to 0.55 should work just fine... Your lucky on the crystal, not one I have installed went on, without grinding the inner edge of the bezel. RG

Send me an email and I'll send you a H2 spare I have, it's still in the packaging... I have only ever used H3 parts, I won't substitute H2 pins for my customers, certainly not without their knowing. This H2 was bought by someone thinking they were getting the correct longer H3 versions...your welcome to it, if the H2 will work for you. RG

Well I have filed a few off, and they are still working fine, so it doesnt' seem to make a difference... Yes indeed they do have the correct tube lengths, that's really good. Now you have to broach them to fit. My experience in broaching many hands (I seem to be doing a lot of this lately with Swiss 7750 swaps) is that it's a trial and test method. You can't choose a 0.22mm (for example) broach and run it through and expect it to fit. I cut the hand a bit, clean it off, test it, and continue to cut and test until it fits the way I want it to. I use a set of Bergeron cutting broaches, not sure of the part number as they are quite old...they are just an assortment of broaches. I have had to custom bend and make clamps for all the ones I have worked on. Ok sounds good, it's a great learning experience, and a way to realize that when you say to someone "It took me 4 hours to install this V72 in your case..." your not kidding. It's hard to understand what the problem was or why it took so much time ... there was no "problem" per see, it just takes a long time to get all these parts to fit together. Nothing is off the shelf put together with no effort... RG

I have not tried this particular one, but not one of the Genuine Omega bezels I have been sent for installation have ever fit a rep...maybe someone has had different experiences... RG

The pin is an alignment pin as far as I know...at least that was my conclusion. I don't think it serves any function... Assembling these is not really assembly, no more so that buying a bunch of parts and assembling a watch and calling it a "Hand Made watch" is considered Hand Making something... Making something implies actually making something, not assembling a bunch of parts someone else made... In the case of the V72, forget the hands, the DW hands are no where near anything you can use on a V72...you need genuine V72 hands. Also if you noted the V72 subdial hands need varing length tubes for them to capture the posts. As for fitting the movement into the case, it does require some modifications, one of which is to remove the pin so you can get it to fit the case, the other is to make some case clamps depending on the original attachment method of the doner V72, etc... It's quite a challenge to put one of these together, as no matter what, nothing seems to fit without some modification and ingenuity on the part of the person doing the work...I have had to broach hands, even the V72 ones... RG

Quite normal on the A7750, and many models with offset cannon pins, including gen's... The offset cannon pin feeds a minute gear, which drives both the center cannon pinion and hour wheels (on which the hands are attached). The extra gear accounts for this issue, as well as there being two more gears between the stem, and the center cannon pinion... All this adds up to slack between the gear teeth (5 gears in total from the driving cannon pin, to the stem gear where you set the time). It can't be fixed, just set the time one minute ahead. RG

If they are both A7750's, the latest versions (28.8K) the datewheels are the same. If one is the older version at 21.6K, they tend to not be identical to the new ones... RG

Asian, look at the regulator arm, it's got two brass pins, ETA has a removable stud...as well as the finish, ETA's look sandblasted. RG

Looks great, nice job. RG

Beautiful collection, and great straps. J says it's not fair, you have more watches than she has shoes... RG

Not at all, and neither has owning or buying reps become illegal. I prefer to keep things in private and under my control that's all... RG

Checked my two besfit books, no hand sizes are listed for the V72 or V71... RG

Ok, good luck. RG

There is a spring and click tab that hold the calendar wheel in place, one or both of these are either out of place or not engaged into the datewheel. Should be straight forward to fix. Sometimes the click tab is too thin and slips under the wheel, if this is the problem, you need to do a bit more to get it sorted out. RG