RWG Technical

Sorry, I don't have email. You can upload the pictures on photobucket and link them here... RG

Bently 6.75. Glad you found it useful. Got to get some sleep, and rest my tweezer fingers... RG

I would guess that all the seconds at 3 models are of this design, can't see them tooling up for lower quality variants. RG

Yes, we can only hope they use this design on the other models out there... Well that would not be accurate, there are 9 extra jewels on this one, 25+9 = 34 jewels in total...lets not tell them, or they will up the price... Not in this case, look at the design and how it was done, the last plate you see, is no thicker than a standard 7750 with a calendar, and probably thinner than the A7750 (3) with the 30-minute counter at 3. I did not measure the thickness, but I think it's the same as a standard 7750 layout model. RG

Movement review, Asian 7750 with running seconds at "3" This is the latest in a long line of modified Asian 7750's. The Asian's have come out with more variants than the Swiss ever did, or thought of...there seems to be no end to the uses of this movement. I think the Asian 7750 has been given and continued to be bashed as a "crappy" movement, based on teething problems with the original version that was produced. The 28.8K models, are in my opinion as good mechanically as the Swiss models. Astetically the Asian model is 8 out of 10 compared to the Swiss. I have not had a return of a Asian 7750 that I have serviced in the past 12 months. Just like the Canada Customs BS myth that won't go away, the Asian 7750 needs to be seen for what it is, a good movement, well executed, but poorly serviced as delivered. Going back 2+ years when we first had a look at the Daytona with running seconds moved to the 6 position (remember the first renditions were based on Swiss ETA 7750's, not Asian models). These first Daytona's were over $1K if I remember well, but suffered with the same problems as all versions did - poorly designed modification with too much friction in the running seconds drive gears (all 5 of them). A correctly designed transfer gear system would actually work, if only someone did it...and maybe they finally did... So now we have the newest rendition of the 7750, and this time we have taken the running seconds from it's normal "9" position, and moved it all the way across the dial face to the "3 position. Added to this, they moved the 30-minute timer from the "12" to the "9" position, but since we have had quazi 7753's for some time now (which moved the 30-minute timer to "3"), moving it to "9" is not a big engineering challenge. So how well did they do? It's probably very unrealistic of me to think my comments and analysis of movements, somehow makes it back to the actual movement designers in Asia. Since I have been offering my suggestions on how to make these modifications work, for over 2 years now, maybe...just maybe...they heard me (finally, now if your hearing this, do the same to the running seconds at 6 A7750's and watch the sales go through the roof...). I won't bore you with the usual teardown of a 7750 photo's we have all seen those... So lets start off with the movement all cleaned up, and the basic movement assembled, and now we will start assembling the chrono parts. Overall view dial side, no bridge installed. Looks like any 7750 at this stage (well, not exactly, the eagle eyed members will spot some mainplate mods) This is the top plate, view from above, date wheels removed for clarity. Same plate, bottom view. Before I install this plate, I have to put some parts in place for the chrono to work, here they are. Note that there are no gears installed for the transfer of the running seconds. If you remember on the running seconds at 6 models, we had to install a new gear, right where the 30-minute output gear is on this model...so where to we pick up running seconds if not where it is located...you'll see... Close up of the 30-minute output at "9" gear and coorresponding jewel. First view of how they picked up the running seconds, this is one of the mainplate mods, this hole does not exist on normal 7750's... Top plate installed, a challenge at the best of times, even more so, since I had not one (12-hour gear and post) to deal with, but the addition of the 30-minute gear and post to line up and get through the plate. Do you see how the gears that we were just looking at are meshed into each other (small inspection holes show if your assembling the watch correctly). Another view. These are the posts for the 30 minute hand and the 12-hour one. The first part of the running seconds transfer gears, do you see what I do?? Actual gears with pivots, and jewels, wow, what is going on here... This part gets installed in the mainplate and will mesh this gear to the movement seconds wheel. Here is the parts installed. The first of two cover plates for the running seconds transfer gears, note more jewels... Overall view with the first cover plate installed, only 3 more gears to go... Here is what we have so far, note that it's all jeweled so far, a good sign. Jewels means no friction, no friction, means...well you know the answer... Second cover plate, for the remaining 3 gears, more jewels. Close up view of the center transfer gear, brass on nickel plated brass, best you can do to have the least friction. Small ring pressed in place to hold the gear. Location of the last two transfer gears, what is this? more jewels...can't be... And actual gears with pivots that ride in the jewels with no friction...unbelievable... Overall view with the remaining plate installed, showing the power flow across the movement face. Close up of the last gears, and the meshing between them... So there you have it. As in the running seconds at 6 model, we have 5 extra gears taking our running seconds from the "9 O'clock" position on the movement, running it across the dial face, and placing it at the "3 O'clock" position. As we all know, this mod doesn't work on the running seconds at "6" models. But, on this model, they have used correct watchmaking designs and placed 4 of the gears in jewels, with correct pivots, for little to no friction at all. The only gear that is not jewelled is the one that has to fit over the center post, and it can't be jewelled due to it having a big hole in the center. Based on my examination, testing, monitoring of the movement on my timing machine, I think this is a well done modification, and poses no issues to the long term life, or running of the movement. In other words, they finally go the design right. Finally... The movement was no different than any other A7750 that I see, in other words, no oil, or over oiled in some area's, no crap or dirt, just not serviced correctly. Movement has been running flawlessly for the past 2 days, and will be out the door by week's end. Thanks for reading, lets put the pressure on to get this design into a running seconds at 6 model. RG

I am not totally clear on the description. If the 12 hour subdial doesn't reset with the case pusher, but when you press on the "spring lever" on the movement (not sure what part this is, picture??) then the problem is not with the movement but with the case pusher. If you can show me a picture of what your pressing on, it would help. RG

Euno So sorry to hear about your loss. My condolences to you and your family. RG

Great review as always, magazine quality (and from my read of the recent watch magazines, they could use a few articles like this one...). Thanks for taking the time to do up this very informative post for the members of RWG, great job. RG

Great new addition to the forum. I just did some reading of your various posts, very well done as always, the pics are second to none, and great write up's as well. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this information base up for the members of RWG. This is what sets, and will always set RWG apart from the other fourms. Quality information, even the gen sites, or TZ can't hold a candle to the information and quality of the posts we have here. Magazine quality your stuff, fantastic... RG

Actually the PM and email boxes are not too full today... My "fabulous" assistant is right here beside me, and I think she is quite "fabulous", if I do say so myself... RG

Well I had a nice break from the forum for the past few weeks. Kept busy at home with improvemnets and other stuff that never seems to get taken care of. I had the chance to get away from home for 5 days, and spend some time in the USA, New York specifically. And a big thanks to one of the members here who made accomadations available to me and my lady. We had a great trip, and one of the highlights was to be able to meet a few of the members from RWG who I have known for a number of years, wonderful to have met you and shook your hands in person. I have some new info to share, concerning the new running seconds at "3" Asian 7750...after 3 years of offering my views on what is needed to make a reliable and usable modification to a 7750 running seconds subdial transfer, it seems as if they got the message...more to come, full teardown and review. Hope everyone had a great August. RG

Sorry about the large pics, photobucket is down, and I can't fix them... I decided to not worry about offending anyone anymore, and share my side of this story. After all, isn

Ok, then there will be a quiz next week, we'll see then... RG

There have been some great accurate comments, let me only add the following for whatever it's worth... 1. You can't ADD any extra seals to watches, as pug pointed out. Each and every watch has to be sealed, or it would soon get contaminated from the heating while wearing it, to the cooling when it's removed from your wrist. Heating and cooling without seals the watch acts like your lungs and sucks in crap. You can make sure the seals are in fact in place inside the watch, or lubricate the seals, but adding extra seals, is BS. Of all the dozen or so reps I have opened, not one had any missing seals. Each and every rep I have ever looked at, had each and every CORRECT seal where it should be. Anyone who says they put in "Larger Seals" to waterproof your watch, is also selling you BS. The cutout in the case or stem or wherever is designed to accept a certain size seal. If you want your watch to be sealed, you use the correct size seal, NOT a larger one. ALL reps come with the CORRECT sized seal...replacing the correct size o'ring with a larger one (if in fact this is even being done) does not make it more waterproof, actually, it probably makes it less waterproof, since the clearances are now out of wack... Think of it this way, your car doors have seals, the right sized ones. Replace them with ones that are larger, and see how well they seal you from the rain... 2. I could not name nor have I ever ran across a "Swiss Trained Watchmaker". Now ETA does run watch movement courses, but you have to be a watchmaker to start with. I just can't see a Swiss watchmaker moving to China, nor can I see an Asian going to Switzerland for a 2 year watchmaker course, where would he earn a living in Asia?? Servicing reps?? which for the most part contain Asian movements...he should be an "Asian Trained Watchmaker" it would be more appropriate. Need anymore be said?? 3. I have seen a fully serviced Asian 7750, which had nothing done to it at all...nothing...it was as bad as they all are... That's all I have to offer. RG

Ask your watchmaker to order a 7750 stem, 0.90mm thread, they are all the same, ie ETA/Swiss/Asian are all identical... Part number is 401/ETA7750, 0.90mm thread RG

Perfectly normal, it has to be processed before it comes into the country. RG

Nice pics...I like the underwater one. RG

Amazing post, just when I think you have set the bar just out of my reach, you move it up again with an amazing post. Thanks for the info, and for taking the time to do this up, very well done. That is what sets this site apart from Time Zone, I have never seen anything there anywhere close to this... Great job. RG

Great news, hopefully it will work out for you. Back to my vacation... RG

Great to hear it's still working fine. RG

With the chrono running, and the seconds hand just shy of the 12 marker, the seconds gear is just starting to engage the 30 mintue counter gears. If it stops at this point, the reason is a problem with the 30 minute gears, probably not the two on the back of the movement, but the 3 under the dial. Assembling the 7753 dial side, is quite tedious and difficult, I have seen a few that had this identical problem, and the reason was that someone had upgraded the watch with a new datewheel, but didn't realize this is not a 7750 and the dial side parts and assembly is quite involved and tricky. When they assembled it, they got the transfer gears jammed up. If this watch had any work done on the dial side, for example a datewheel upgrade, I would say this is your problem. There were also a number of these that got broken by the owners or the watchsmith's (?) and the post on the 30 minute counter where the hand is installed was snapped of. I repaired a few of these, since you can't get 7753 parts from ETA. Maybe yours is one with this problem. RG

Wow, is all I can say. Wonderful job you did, and great follow up on the bracelet refinishing. Great watch, too bad those red reversing wheels have to be hidden behind that caseback. Wear it well. RG

Great story, as phoband said, save your money and go with the regular model. Welcome aboard. RG

Most pushers are standard sizes, normally 2.5mm case thread size. You should be able to source some generic pushers to replace these. Ofrei is asking $42 each for replacements, I think I have a supplier that probably carries them for less, but would have to look... If I forget to look please try and remind me, keeping in mind my pm is shut down for a while. RG

You probably have a couple of things going on... 1. If the beat is out (which it most likely is on a unserviced watch) then it will stop running, my guess when this took place, is that by pulling and pushing the crown in, you jarred the balance enough to get it running again... 2. No idea, but most likely related to the watch not being serviced, which means that it's probably over-oiled in some parts, and completely dry in others, and also probably not adjusted correctly. You can eliminate a power reserve issue by doing the following, wind the watch with the crown, 35+ turns, this should fully wind it. Put it down, write the day and time, check the watch each morning and night, until it stops...if you get 36 hours or more, you don't have a power reserve issue. Wear the watch, and see how long it runs, keep in mind this is a uni-directional winding movement, which means the rotor turns in the non -winding direction (since it has no friction this way) probably 80% of the time while wearing it. It takes a lot of movement to keep it fully wound. Running the chrono or not, will not change anything or lubricate the parts...almost all the chrono parts are turning all the time anyway, even with the chrono OFF. RG