RWG Technical

For me it is easy to find spare parts, because I have many in my spares bins. Some ETA parts fit the Asian 7750, some don't. I have only replaced a few parts on Asian movements, due to failure, and all of those I could get from ETA. RG

No idea what is going on, maybe your mainspring is broken... RG

Asian 7750's have one big problem, they aren't serviced when delivered. Once they are serviced and oiled correctly, they are just as reliable as a Swiss 7750. A Swiss 7750 that is not serviced, is no better than an Asian 7750 that is not serviced... RG

I only know of one solution, that is to make a clamp that catches the movement and also the case. As you pointed out, there are many problems you have to overcome, but so far I have by some miracle been able to get a clamp made, and a screw to go in and hold it down, without interfering with the caseback... That's the big problem with any of these mods, nothing is made for what your trying to put it into, and it requires literally hours of messing around trying to get all to work together, not easy, or quick... RG

Damn cursed Venus 175 copies, they never break, a watchmaker's worse nightmare, the Maytag of the watch world...I hate the cursed Venus 175... Yes they are good movements, you can read the review of it here For your info, it's NOT a Lemania anything... Venus 175 movement review This watch is by far one of the best I have seen in terms of case quality, fit and finish etc, simply amazing. RG

Bill Your correct on the 25-50 turns before wearing, that is in my information for people who have never had mechanical watches. It can be found here in my watch basics, here is part of that info:

The Rolex stampings on the Rotor are actually a metal plate stuck over the rotor. If it's an ETA, look under the balance for markings, numbers and the ETA stamp, and "DM" if you see none of this, you don't have an ETA movement. RG

It is hard to tell from that picture if it's a genuine ETA, chances are it is...I have seen many with this decorative finish. Remember, as with all the reps with ETA movements in them, all the movements that are bought, ALL of them - even the ones sold at Ofrei etc, they are all surplus movements. It isn't unusual to see movements with high finish, or markings on the rotor from various genuine watches, after all, being surplus, they get what they can buy on the open market. You have a nice model, now put mittens on when you pick up the watch, to prevent handwinding RG

This is what I did to mine...and I love it... Genuine Tudor movement... Gen crown and tube... It's a keeper. RG

The tab on the date change gear is only engaged into the datewheel from around midnight to about 4-6 am. If you do a quick date change after this time, there won't be any resisitance, since the tab is not in the way... Your best to not handwind these models, except for just enough to get the watch going if it's stopped. 99% of rotor and click wheel problems, are owner caused...I have had watches in with the gear teeth stripped off the gears completely...from handwinding. RG

Sorry to hear about the SMP problem. When you say the hands don't move, I take it this means the watch doesn't run anymore? If that is the case, you probably broke the balance staff, if it doesn't run at all, this is the first thing that gets damaged from a shock. There could be other damage, but normally the balance is the only one that suffers. You have a few options available, fix whatever is broken, fully service the watch while getting it fixed, install an ETA in place of the Asian (guessing it's the 12-9-6 layout like mine), or scrap the watch... If there is anything I can do, let me know. RG

Caution, if you continue to hand wind the watch, you will damage the click wheels and it will need to be repaired. Handwinding this model is not good or recommended. Handwinding enough to fully wind the watch, is even worse, especially if it's done often, or fast, and by fast I mean just above a snail's pace while turning the crown. Keep in mind the autowinder is a gear reduction system from the rotor to the mainspring, when you handwind, your going the other way, a gear increase, 1/4 of a crown turn, is a gazillion turns of the click wheels (ok, I made up the gazillion, but you get the point). The noise you hear is the clutch release in the mainspring barrel, the mainspring is fully wound, and it's ratcheting on the clutch. Depending on the vintage of the movement and the specific type of datewheel change gear, I suspect that the difficulty you had with the datewheel advancing is normal, you were forcing the datewheel against the tab on the quickset date change arm. You probably didn't damage anything, but anytime you feel resistance while doing something, it's best to stop otherwise it's very easy to damage the movement. RG

I think it's all a function of the white balance of the digital camera not knowing what to adjust for... The photo's are in low light to start with, and I have taken 2 shots of the same watch, one right after another, and one is greenish, the other has a hint of blue. SL looks greenish in person, never blueish as shown in some pics, and I don't even own photoshop, god knows it takes long enough to just get the pictures taken and cut and pasted, and uploaded etc, who has time for photoshop. RG

Great news, congrats. RG

Very nice collection. I don't see any leather straps, wonder if you tried some out, if this would add variety to the existing collection without needing to buy new watches. Thanks for sharing. RG

I am the only one that gives out my email address, that is how I control who I work with.

Overseas packages are best sent via standard Air Mail, it's not expensive, and so far to all places from everywhere in the EU, to Australia and beyond, I have had 100% success rate with Air Mail. From most places you can send Air Mail with Registered, which is the same as tracking. EMS is very expensive, and in my opinion not needed... J will send you an email when the package(s) arrives, as she always does for Air Mail, EU Air Mail can be less than a week, from Australia etc it can take up to two weeks to arrive. RG

Some background is needed to fill in the blanks... Asian movements overall lack general servicing, normally they are dry or flooded with oil and grease, especially common on A7750 models, automatic models seem for the most part to be quite good. ETA movements vary from pristine new, to very old and tired. Why? Simple, the ETA movements are all SURPLUS, including the ones from Ofrei, or any other supply house. Ofrei does not carry any factory movements, they all come from supply houses, the only factory ones are in sealed blister packs, everything else, is surplus. Which means condition varies, a lot... I have bought new (?) movements from Ofrei, only to have them so old and gummed up that the pivots broke off when I tried to disassemble it. There is no way to know what your getting, except by taking the movement apart and looking at it. Short of a poorly running movement, which tells you it needs servicing, your guess is as good as anyone else's as to what you have in your watch. The only guarantee you have that your particular movement is clean and correctly serviced, is to send it to a watchmaker...unless you purchase new ETA sealed blister pack movements, I can get these, but prices are double the surplus ones, a factory 6497 is over $200 each... Now you know as much as I do. RG

Your dial dots are indeed correct, you peel the brown paper off, revealing a dot of glue below it. However, they will do you no good on this model, for all the reasons you mentioned. The best way to secure these dials with no feet, is to glue the datewheel spacer ring to the dial, then glue the dial/datewheel spacer ring to the movement. GS cement will work, but you have to be careful with it as it runs and can get where it shouldn't. I use contact cement to glue the dial to the spacer ring, and then I use a slight amount of GS to attach this assembly to the movement. RG

Great work Andy, way to go...you never see these results on the gen forums. RG

Not sure about the earings, but there are traces of lipstick... The old 21.6K 7750 was prone to being dirty, the newer version, of which I have seen a few, are very clean as far as crud goes. The new 7750's however are not oiled for the most part, and the mainspring barrels tend to be filled with some oilly crud which leaks everywhere inside the movement. If they took the effort it took to fancy up the bridges, and serviced the movement, then we would have progress... RG

What position was the crown in when you released the screw, hopefully not the time setting one (it should be in the winding position) RG

You messed up the keyless works somehow. Your only saving grace is if while unscrewing the small screw to release the crown, you only turned it at the most 2 turns, your ok and the watch can be fixed easily. If you turned the set lever stem release screw enough to disengage the screw from the lever, the watch has to come apart to fix it... RG

Thanks for the review and info on where to buy this book. Of course I'll have to get one to add to my collection. I read this yesterday, but did not have time to post an answer. Thanks for taking the time to add knowledge and insight to RWG. RG

The only reliable way to match up this pusher with an aftermarket one, is to send the pusher assembly to a watch supply house, and ask them to match one up, if they can... Plain pushers are common, this is a bit of an odd ball and may be hard to find. RG