RWG Technical

Understood, sorry to hear that. RG

The only constant on reps, is change...just when you think you have one thing figured out, they change it...just when you see a certain movement or quality of a certain watch, they change it... It's part of the fun (if you can call it that) of collecting these watches, you never know exactly what your going to get. RG

@ slai, Great picture, glad you like the results, I am happy as well, enjoy. Well I think your mistaken, at this magnification it looks quite good to me...now stand back from your monitor, far enough so that the watch on your wrist is the same size as this watch, and tell me if you see "bumpy and sloppyness"... unless of course your superman and have x-ray eyes... This shot is magnified a lot more than you can see with your eyes. As for sausage lume looking the same, sorry pal, you must be referring to someone other than me, this is the quality of my lume, too lumpy and sloppy for you? I can and do the same on any sausage dialed PAM. RG

Why would they need to be screws? You did not say how you discovered that these were not screws. Did one fall out? or did you try and unscrew them and found out they were glued in place... This is totally normal for a replica watch, it is after all a replica. The fact that they are not screws, does not affect anything, they are cosmetic only, and it's normal to have this and many other parts of the watch "look" the part, but not actually function as the real watch does. As long as they are glued in place, I see nothing wrong with this. There is no reason to ever remove them. RG

Very interesting article, thanks for posting it. RG

Not necessary, what I want to see is the balance kock and balance, so just make sure the rotor is on the other side of the movement... RG

I would say your balance kock jewel is missing. When dial up, the balance rides on the kock jewel, when dial down, it rides on the mainplate dial side jewel. Take a picture of the movement with the caseback off, and post it. RG

My pleasure as always...this stuff keeps me sharp and on the ball. Let me know how it goes, I think it will be fine. RG

On the 7750, you have to press the release to get the stem to lock in place. If you didn't press the release to get the stem to seat in place, but managed to get the stem to lock, then I suspect that you have damage to the keyless works. I have never seen a 7750 release button stick in the down position, it's a totally different design than the 2836 and doesnt' normally suffer from this problem. I would remove the stem, the slowly and carefully put it back in place, turn it as you insert it, until it stops, then while pressing on the crown, press down on the release pin, to allow the stem to engage and lock in place. On some 7750's you have to press quite hard to get it to go back in place. You should feel and hear it click when it's seated. Test it and see if it works. If not, then your left to take it apart, but on the 7750, you have to take a big bridge off to get at the keyless works, and getting this bridge back in place, is very difficult... RG

Ha, Ha...guess I need that tea in me before I write something down... I edited the post, I meant to say the Winding position for stem release, not the time setting one....sorry about that. Glad someone is on the ball, now where is my tea. So in my humble opinion and from practical experience, once and for all, winding position is the best and safest way to remove a stem from any movement (as proven by your own experience). RG

You would have to try really hard to screw up the keyless works on a 7750. Time setting for releasing a stem is NOT way to do it, no matter what the experts say on TZ (in my opinion), especially critical on the 7750 due to it's design. I always release the stem in the winding position, on all models of movements. You have to press on the stem release when installing the stem into a 7750, you did not mention if you did this, so it could be your problem. If you released the stem in the time setting or date position, you may have problems trying to get it back in place. RG

I agree on the tooling, you have to especially have really good quality jewellers screwdrivers, not the ones sold in department stores. The Bubble back I just finished is an example of a movement that requires really sharp tools, otherwise no go on getting anything apart. Watch paper is a few dollars for 1000 sheets, that is your best option, get it when you get a hand puller and screwdrivers. Good luck in your future projects. RG

The Asian 7750 basterdized to be a 7753 (like this one is) won't accept a ETA 7753 in it's place. The datewheels aren't the same size, or in the same location. No option on this model but to go with the Asian movement, unless they make a ETA 7753 dial. RG

Great to see you doing it yourself. As stated above, the Rotor should have a screw holding it to the movement. RG

Very interesting, thanks for posting this. RG

Thanks for the kind feedback. I have done a few B&R's, I assume your referring to this model? Unfortunatly, I can't seem to find any glow shots in my pics folders. It's done in Tritec Orange, I didn't tint or colour it, straight from the bottle. As you can see the dial lume has to be applied flat, otherwise the hands touch it. Same for the hands, the lume is flat on them. It's no where near the glow of C3, but about C1 brightness in the dark. RG

I don't know why, but I look forward to luming these models. The Bezel alone takes 2+ hours to get done, and requires a number of coats to get the end effect, but it's very satisfying when done. Daylight shots of the Super Luminova C1. Glow shot just after charge. EXPOSURE time, 1/2.5 seconds, F3.5 35mm Same shot, 10 seconds later, EXPOSURE time 1/1.3 sec, F3.5, 35mm Why am I highlighting the exposure time?? Because it's important. Anything over a few seconds of exposure for a lume shot, is being deceitful, since your eye won't see anything near what the camera sees over a long exposure. This is why I prefer ambient lighting, and taking quick shots, more realistic and truthful of what you will experience on your watch if you decide to get it lumed. In the dark picture, short exposure ONE Second. Same set up, FIFTEEN Second exposure, check out the difference in the glow. Special lume? Nah, just plain old Super Luminova, the same stuff the Genuine manufactures use on their watches. Long exposure makes a huge difference in what you see... After the first few minutes following a charge, your lume (no matter what you call it or how you mix it) will look basically like this for the next 8 hours in the dark, (after your eyes are dark adapted, which takes around 20 minutes). You can see the time no problem, but your not going to read a book by it. Always look for the exposure time, or ask for it when viewing lume pictures. If you see something that looks amazingly bright, it's simply due to long exposure - that's all...even crappy rep lume can be made to glow like crazy, given a long enough exposure time... RG

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On the watchmaking/repair side of the question, I have spoken at length to my supplier about this very question. The answer has been that there is nothing at all to worry about, parts and ETA movements will always be available. I can still order and get any ETA movement I like, and parts has never been an issue. The Sellita movement, while a good quality one, doesn't share one part with the ETA, so using it as a spares source is not a possibility. Our reps have always used surplus movements, so no change there... RG

No surprise there, given the source... RG

Ok understood. If I can help out let me know. If you want ETA fonts, your limited to using ETA movements. Good luck in your search... RG

I'll send a PM to the mods in case they don't see this... If I could fix it I would, I spent all last weekend doing up the posts and uploading them etc, and this week as I looked at the number of "hits" I was thinking..."well that was a waste of time, no one is even reading them..." Now I know why. RG

I guess I can see them since I am the Mod of that section, sorry but they did not give me anymore power than just posting my stuff. Mods have to fix this... RG

Do you have any other Asian datewheels you can install? I have a lot of old Asian datewheels in my spares box, if you can provide a picture and dimensions, maybe I have an old one that you can use... RG