RWG Technical

Understood. It was never my intention to mislead anyone, just to share what I see. Post edited to reflect the possible misleading of members. No matter, someone will always use the information to their advantage or disadvantage as they see fit. I will do the teardown and that will answer the rest of the questions. I think it's just a really old ETA, maybe going back 25 or more years...we'll see tonight. You know how excited I get when something new comes along...just like a kid in a candy store... RG

I edited my opening post again (4 times now...) to clear up that statement. I have seen KIF Trior springs used on many ETA movements as well as the Incabloc ones. I was only referring to the cut-out in the shock setting, one hole is not a KIF Trior setting. I will cross check in my Bestfit books tonight. There is a KIF Parashock setting that has one hole, and is a forerunner to this KIF Trior, but the spring it not shaped like this one, and is found on older movements...which maybe this movement is...older...like circa 1982 when first produced...who knows at this point... RG

Unlikely that the machining will affect anything, it

Since this topic seems to have lead to more questions, mainly "Quality and functionality" of this particular movement, here's what I am going to do: 1. I will take the movement apart (on my nickel and my time), tear it down, inspect it in detail, and see how it looks. 2. I am going to service it fully, and once finished, see how it performs (great deal for the owner who send it in for relume only). While the movement is torn down, I will take a known ETA 2824 that I have in stock, and see if any or all of the parts are compatible with this movement. That should put to rest interchangeability and spare parts questions, as well as origin. ETA parts, no matter the grade, are interchangeable across the same caliber number, ie all 2824 parts fit any 2824 movement, etc. This is clearly indicated on the ETA tech data sheets. I don't regard any of my posts as anything but my point of view, but I see that I have short changed my impact on the members here, that is an error on my part. It's not my intention ever to mislead anyone on the forum, but it seems as if this could be interpreted this way. In other words, someone gets a watch with this movement in it, and starts complaining. To avoid any further problems, I'll answer all the questions we need answered. Sorry if I mislead anyone. RG

It has never been my intention to mislead anyone at anytime or for any reason. I used the terms that everyone recognizes, I see now that this is misleading, so I have edited my post to reflect this fact. It's now called an "Unknown Movement" RG

My error, text and title changed to reflect "Unknown Movement" since that is how I see this one, it's not like anything I have seen before. I never commented that the movement was not of good quality, all I pointed out were the visual differences I see between this unknown movement and the ETA ones I have seen in the past. I agree 100%. My 188 is still going strong, and it's a A7750, the old version... I have always stood up for the Asian movements, and clearly stated for the past 3 years that any movement that is properly serviced, will last a lifetime. An unserviced or dirty movement is not going to last. RG

Replacing a movement as your first step into watchmaking is not a good idea, as stated above. The odds of success are slim to none. Maybe you can get it replaced by the dealer? RG

It doesn't accept ETA parts... RG

If no parts are broken, $20 would be reasonable. RG

Unknown ETA Movement DISCLAIMER I can't verify that this movement is or isn't an ETA. But it is different than any other ETA I have seen or worked on. It's marked as ETA, and ETA does produce at least 5 versions of the 2824-2, of varying quality and fit and finish. EDIT It is not my intention to mislead anyone, or state that this movement is indeed a Asian Copy of an ETA or a ETA of a different grade... I have changed the text as such. Now, let me start by adding this comment up front: I am basing my comments and conclusions on my own experience, that

As long as you buy the same ETA model, the hands and the rest will fit... RG

Ok, good luck. RG

Well I guess there are more than one version out there...mine doesn't look anything like the one on the right. Pics taken, just need to do the post up, probably tomorrow I'll have it done... RG

The only gain you will have if you have a chrono 7750, is the thickness of the rotor itself. The bridge with the 3 screws, holds many parts for the chrono, and I would not remove it, as it's the most difficult part to get installed on a 7750. Stuck rotors are common, once the screw is out, just use a grey screwdriver to gently pry the rotor off the movement. RG

I was thinking of the wrong person, who's initials are JF...Johnnyboy is who I was referring to... JF I am not familiar with, except that I did get a PM from a JF from RWI a while back looking for me to do watch work for him...maybe I need to be careful?? RG

Understood on how the watch got this way, this makes it clear as to what the problem is. The biggest problem with the ETA 2824/36 models and the keyless works, is when the stem is installed the clutch gear snaps out of the lever, it's not so much when removed (like in your case, where you used the correct tool and the pusher is still locking the stem). That is the good news, the bad news is that you have to take the keyless works apart to fix the problem. You can get the ETA datasheets at www.eta.ch which will help with the assembly procedures. The problem is one I see a lot, and that I end up having as well. The clutch gear has been pushed out of place past the clutch lever, and the only way to fix it, is to take it apart, and put it back together where it should be. Not terribly difficult, but the keyless works is quite complex, includes the hacking lever, and a lot of parts that have to fit together a certain way, etc... If you haven't done this before, honestly it's very unlikely that you will have success in getting this sorted out. It's much too complex for me to run through in a post since a lot of the dial side has to come apart to get at the problem. RG

Although this is going way off topic, I would like to know the full story behind this statement. Why? Simple, I know JF very well, and when I am in his town on business, I always get together and have a meal with him. I have been meeting with him for a couple of years now, so this shocks me somewhat. RG

Not a problem, I did my own crapping as well...sometimes things just need to be said. RG

Just to clairify that this movement is not in for service, it's only a lume job. So I won't be tearing it down, but I will take some of it apart so you can spot the differences between it an the ETA. Quality wise, I won't be able to tell except for the external inspection and the readout on the movement analyzer. RG

Klink says a lot of things, most of which are total absurdity. I have never noted or listened to what he sprouts off about...nor do I care. If Klink did indeed know anything that none of us did, this movement would have appeared a long time ago...it didn't appear because Klink knows nothing about nothing, and is a fool. No need to ever bring up his name on this forum again. Now back to the topic at hand... RG

I hope all the crowns have been inspected to make sure none have these problems...3 new crowns all defective. CROWN 1 CROWN 2 CROWN 3, the only useable one...

Probably a bad thing overall...not sure if it's from your watch though. Dealers are getting mislead already, the ETA "2824" vs what the watch had in it (an ETA "2842") in the ViennaWatch PO is but one example. Now, we have a movement with all the markings of an ETA, but an outright copy made to look like an ETA. The good news is this, it's easy to spot the differences, very easy...once I do up the pictorial of the ETA vs Asian Copy, everyone will be an expert, and can easily verify what they have. RG

Pictures to come later on... I finally got a watch in that has an ETA 2824 with all the markings, etc...but it looks totally different than any other ETA I have seen. This is not a Sellita model, easy to spot them due to the complete mirror image on bridge attachments. This model is marked "ETA" and has the movement model marked under the balance, but that is where the similarity ends... I hope to have time later this week to post detailed pictures, so you can see the difference. RG

Your right. @lnoblesus The articles are all in the RWiki section now. RG

Just a word of caution on hand winding it. If you can open the case back, I would do this before I did anything else. Loose parts moving around in the case, can and do get jammed up in gears, and you could go from a loose rotor, to a broken movement from having jammed a screw in a gear... RG