RWG Technical

Excellent... After the rotor is off, you only have to remove the two black screws to remove the autowinder bridge assembly. When you re-install it, seat it in place, lightly install the screws, and before tightening them down, turn the crown in the winding position to see that all the gears are meshed as they should be...keep turning the crown as you tighten the screws. See this post here for info. Last section covers rotor install... RG

Coming along real nice, good work. RG

PM works fine... RG

I wouldn't go that far...just offering my point of view that's all...but thanks for the kind words. Asian movement, I would say your doing great with it, and like ubi points out, it's got a lot to do with your wearing habits when you speak of break in. If for example your watch always ran +20 seconds per day, and I was living next door to you, I would adjust it to -20 seconds, and if we did it right, it would run perfect while you wear it. For someone else, it may need to be abjusted more or less than this value. I can't predict how a watch will run while being worn, but there are acceptable standards for timing that normally work out fine. I time all watches dial up and dial down, and adjust them to +15/20 seconds per day, because most people while walking have their hands down by their sides, and in the crown down position, the watch will slow down a bit. So on average a +20 seconds a day rate - dial up and down - will nomally run close to perfect with normal regular use. But it all depends on what position your hands are in all day, and what they are doing as well, i.e. moving or stationary on a keyboard etc... RG

Sounds good, mixing is like any epoxy, 1/2 and 1/2 of the two tubes... Have fun, nothing like doing it yourself and the personal satisfaction you get when your all done. RG

20 seconds is nothing to be concerned with... depending on the movement, the factory specifications are no better than 20 seconds per 24 hours for many models, including most ETA's... There is no such a thing as a "Break in" period. It's not a car engine but a watch. If this was true, I would have to keep each and every movement I service, in the shop and running for 2 weeks, and then time them before sending them out. I dont' do this, because there is no change from day 1 after service until about 3-5 years later when the oils dry up. Break-in is a myth, nothing more. RG

Structural epoxy A4 Metalset and JB weld can be found with google. If your only gluing it in place, mix the glue up, put some on the pin that fits into the bracelet, insert the pin into the bracelet, clean the excess glue, and let it harden... RG

Well I wonder if they just have crappy movements they are sending out, very odd indeed... If you have a caseback opener, and can take the rotor and winding bridge off, you can ship them to me, and I can put them throught the wash and see if they can be salvaged, maybe they are just dirty and gummed up. Your winding is not enough to cause a problem, so it's got to be a movement problem... If you are able to remove the parts, let me know on a PM and we can work something out. RG

It's riveted in place, and may be able to be re-riveted back in place, and/or riveted and glued with structural epoxy. Not an easy fix... RG

I am as confused as TTK ... What does your techinical expertise have to do with the "surge in prices and availability" of movements?" Your background is? qualifications? experience? Are you selling movements, or techincal expertise? If your selling technical expertise, your in the wrong place, we give it away for free here... If your selling movements, it would seem from your initial comments, that your hoping to CASH in on the surge in prices. Unless I am reading your comments the wrong way. RG

LG Openall case opener with replaceable bits... Available at watch supply houses, around $60 or so, well worth the money. RG

You have two problems... 1. you have to remove the broken post from the hand, 2. replacing the 12 hour wheel, is one of the most difficult parts of assembling the 7750, see my how-it-works here for what your up against... 7750 12-hour wheel info Unless you have experience assembling a 7750, your better off letting a watchmaker fix it. RG

I can't help but wonder why both of these movements developed exactly the same problem, within weeks of them working fine... If your handwinding this model, that is the problem, the click wheels are damaged. It's highly unlikely that a new working 2824 would suddenly develope exactly the same problem as the first one did, the odds of this happening, without any outside influance, is very high. Meaning if the automatic movement is used as an auto - not a manual wind - it will not give you trouble. $220 is on par for a commercial shop to service a automatic wind, calendar movement...google watch repair prices, and you'll see what the going rate is... RG

Looks good, nice job. RG

It's probably your autowinder click wheel that is seized. They seize for a number of reasons, it can happen if you manual wind the watch a lot, or it can happen just because stuff happens... Or it could be some other gear(s) in the manual winding gears that is bad..only way to know, is for someone to open it up and have a look, preferably a watchmaker. RG

The time is 7:04, the GMT hand is slightly past the 6 position on the dial, which is correct, and the bezel is lined up more or less with the bezel 24 above the 12 of the dial. What is wrong with the GMT hand position? I dont' understand your explanation at all... I can move the bezel and put the GMT hand at any position I choose on the bezel, right now the GMT hand is on the 12 marker, if I move the bezel to put the GMT hand under the 18 marker, or any other marker, what difference does it make? How about if you move the GMT hand alone, what happens then (or does it not move independent on this model?) I did not know that the GMT hand was supposed to be in a certain location on the dial dependent of the time on the hour and minute hands, I always thought the GMT hand told the time in Greenich England, independent of the local time... What your suggesting is that the GMT time should be the same as the local time (7:04 or 19:04)...but that is only true if your on the prime meridian where both GMT and Local time are the same...this doesn't apply anywhere else on the planet (say Eastern Time USA, GMT-5 Hrs)... Confused... RG

Sounds fine to me, I'll take care of it with the lume... RG

You could make a marker with a black oiler and some paint, would take a delicate touch under a loupe to make one, and a steady hand... Somewhat risky. RG

Beautiful work as usual, nice job... RG

You have to open the watch and remove the stem/crown assembly and remove and replace the stem. There are some breakdowns in my section on doing this, it's basically the same on all watches... Depending on where you live, stems are available from watch supply houses, the part number for a stem is 401. RG

I hate to be the one to break the news to you, but your stem is too short... So yes, a new stem cut and installed to the correct length, will indeed fix your problem. RG

Given that this is a public forum, some things are best discussed in private...not in the open... RG

I have not installed one, so I dont' know if it fits or what is involved... Certainly a new tube and crown would be needed, and my SMP is like yours, the crown has crapped out...so I will be ordering one for myself soon and installing it - if it fits... RG

I will check my email settings, it may be the Spam filter blocking it, for some reason, someone, somewhere, thinks I need a penis enlarger...and I keep marking them as spam to try and stop it. Same for my PM, otherwise I end up overloaded with messages... RG

It's not dust, there is something stopping the hands, or jamming somewhere. If the watch was stopped, and you pulled the crown out and the watch started again, then that indicates that the hands are a problem, you have to look at them and see what is wrong, or have someone look at it, find the problem, and fix it... RG