RWG Technical

It sounds like the hands could be touching on the dial or each other... The fact you moved the hands, and the watch continued to run, confirms this. If you can take the hands off, and see how long it runs, you will have your answer to what the problem is... RG

It can be fixed, problem is, the hacking lever is the next to last part to be removed when you disassemble the watch...which means your basically overhauling the watch to get at the hacking lever... The hacking levers are not the best on these models, if you turn the watch dial down, does it stop running? If not, then the hacking lever is out of the clutch gear, and could get jammed up somewhere, worse case, it will hack all the time...and the watch won't run at all... RG It can be fixed, problem is, the hacking lever is the next to last part to be removed when you disassemble the watch...which means your basically overhauling the watch to get at the hacking lever... The hacking levers are not the best on these models, if you turn the watch dial down, does it stop running? If not, then the hacking lever is out of the clutch gear, and could get jammed up somewhere, worse case, it will hack all the time...and the watch won't run at all... RG

My email address is private for a reason, so please, asking others to send my personal information to someone else, without my permission - is not a good practice. Thanks RG

Yes it's 25, and no there are no Missing Jewels, they are not defective movements, I use my 2 year old 188 chrono all the time... RG

Shoot me a PM, I am in Canada as well, and can spare some... RG

To answer your first question, yes you can swap the parts from an Asian quasi 7753 into a ETA 7750, and make an ETA/Asian 7753 subdial layout. If you want to know HOW to do it, click on this link, it's all there...I did it a couple of years ago... Installing a ETA 7750 with a Asian 775(3) RG

You need to change the design of the mainplate for a 7753, then in addition/replacement to the existing 7750 parts, you need to redesign/add 14 parts to make a true 7753 model. The 7753 lists 14 new parts over and above the mainplate on the parts breakdown. If they can make the new Asian 7750, there is nothing stopping them from making these extra parts, like the chicken commerical used to say " Parts is parts..." RG

As stated above, according to the ETA tech sheets, there are 14 new parts that diffrenciate the 7750 and 7753, if you include the new 7753 mainplate, 15 parts. RG

All the info you need is here. PAM Cannon upgrade. You want H3 size replacement cannon and hour wheels, I keep these in stock. RG

Today is your lucky day... I have one of these PAM's (not sure of the exact model number) in my shop today, and will open it and tear it down later this week. I have never seen one, so I guess it will be new for me also, and that I should take some pictures and post what I see... It will be the weekend before you see anything from me, but I will do a review on the movement. RG

The 7750 series are all basically the same movement with a few parts added or removed depending on the caliber. A 7753 has 14 new/different parts over a 7750, that's it, nothing more. Only 14 pieces make up the difference between a standard 7750, and a genuine correctly made 7753. How hard can it be to make 14 parts... RG

You have absolutely no intention of sharing anything with anyone here. Your only agenda is to try and convince the good folks here to damage their watches, or send them to you so you can damage them. You readily admitted that you bought 3 genuine crystals, at a cost of $750, all because you did not want to spend $50 on a crystal press. That was last week, if that wasn’t enough, this week your suggesting we use hammers to install our crystals… A good quality crystal press, ABLE to install ALL types of crystals, including those with Cyclops on them, is less than $50. Watchmaking has been around for 300 years, there are acceptable and normal methods of doing certain tasks, just like there are in any trade. You obviously know nothing about mechanical properties, pressing any item that is an interference fit (crystal is an interference fit, movement jewels are interference fit, bearings in your car wheels are interference fit, etc) requires even steady pressure applied equally to the item your trying to get installed. Which is why we use a press. Using a Hammer and trying to get others to do the same, or better yet a hockey puck and a vise, is just but two examples in your BS posts here. I can judge your way because I know what I am talking about, and you don’t. I care less if you say it works, are you going to show pictures like you did on the vise and hockey puck installation, were no one could even make out if it was even a watch, let alone see the details of your "Bathroom Silicone and epoxy crystal installation". You have been on my ignored list for a long time, I only hope that everyone does the same, as long as we continue to answer you, you’ll think your being clever, sorry pal, were much smarter than you’ll ever be. End of discussion, and hopefully the mods will put an end to your BS and misleading posts. RG

NOTE TO Mods... How much more of this do we have to endure? First the Hockey Puck and vise for crystal installation, and now a HAMMER for crystal installation...come one, this is getting out of hand. It's not hard to see the agenda of this TROLL, he is trying and encourage and entice our members to DAMAGE or BREAK their watches using his stupid suggestions. There is no question that this individual has one agenda, to stir the pot here, but worse, to try and get people to use his "methods" or worse yet, have some poor sap from the forum send this person a watch so he can wreck it for them. Can we please delete these posts since they could cause someone to damage their property, and can we stop this type of post, in other words, as soon as there is another post like this from this fool, delete it immediatly. Unless I am the only one that thinks leaving his posts up is NOT benificial to RWG or the members, and serves only to feed and encourage him... I would like to hear the thoughts of others. RG

Do you wind the watch until you can't wind it anymore and it's reached the stop. This takes 60+ turns on the crown. Your description sounds like your only partially winding the watch, not fully winding it. You have to wind until it's impossible to wind anymore, then see how long it runs...there is no risk of breaking the mainspring by fully winding the watch. RG

If we ignore him, maybe he will get the hint and move under another bridge somewhere far away from us... In the meantime, I wait with baited breath for the next installement of "Watch Repairing by a DUMMY", what scares me even more, is the posts where he is asking people to send him their watch so he can work on it, hopefully no one will ever take him up on that offer. RG

Looks great, nice job as usual. RG

I remeber that well...and as soon as I read this topic earlier today, that is the first thing that popped into my mind. I have been asked many times to contribute to RWI, the fact Klink is a mod there, is the reason I will never be over there and contribute. Thanks, but NO thanks... RG

That is BS and not true, they dont' know what they are talking about... Glad you are getting a replacement one in from King, good customer service. I suggest you dont' get this shop to do any movement work for you, they are clueless and will probably cause more damage to your watch if you let them work on it. My guess, not one person you spoke to is a watchmaker, if they are watchmakers, they dont' know anything about a 7750... RG

The wheel at 10 is not the problem, if you look at the datewheel detent spring accross from the "24" you can see it's not fully engaged and holding the datewheel in the correct place. There is friction somewhere on the datewheel, you have to find it and correct it. RG

The permanent fix would be to remove the running seconds at 6 gears, freeze the subdial, and it should run fine... RG

All you can do is to either return it, or have someone that knows what they are doing fix it for you... the fact you have no experience in watchmaking, should serve as a warning to leave it alone. The cost of the tools alone, would be much more than the cost of fixing it, and there is a real risk of damage becasuse you have no experience. Taking a chrono apart as a first timer, not a good idea... RG

THe hand slippage is not normally between the hand and the shaft (chrono seconds shaft that is), but the actual tube on the hand. The tube is not rivited hard enough to the hand and it can slip... Here is the way I fix it...not for the faint of heart... Apply glue here side view, not too thick on the glue... GLUE installed, should look like this. If the hand to the post is slipping, a small amount of glue on the tip of the post, and THEN installing the hand usually fixes it... Putting glue on the top, as you can see in the above pics, does little, since the post and the tube are both below the hand, not on top of it. RG

Any 7750 with running seconds at 6 is problematic, this has been discussed at length many many many times... RG

That is a common problem on all chrono models, and can happen if you reset too far from "12" (frankly I see no reason to reset anywhere but at "12"), I don't cover hand slippage since it's a flaw on these models, but there is an easy solution, reset at 12 or real close to it... Any automatic model that is wound with the crown will quit sooner or later, it's not designed to be wound with the crown, but with the autowinder. Crown winding just to get the watch going is acceptable, anymore is not... Your within your warranty, why do you still have the watch and how come your not emailing my associate and sending the watch in for warranty? It's probably a damaged click wheel, quick fix... RG

Great post, I too am appreciative of what I can get from our dealers...since I know the other side and the scammers out there. RG