RWG Technical

Looks stealthy...very nice. Are you sure about the 2.5 grams of lume? 1 Gram of lume will easily lume 20 or more PAM dials (sandwich or sausage), 2.5 grams of lume goes a long long way...... and from the pics you still have the sandwich look to the dial, in other words the cutouts for the numbers are not filled in flush with lume so it's only a thin layer of lume on the backplate where the number cutouts are located. I must be missing something, is the dial face completely lumed or something? Congrats on a nice piece, wear it well.

We are getting much closer, but still missing one important piece of the puzzle, I'll fill in the following: It's not my old 188 with the silver dial... Old case 7753 Lello DW Gen Crown and new tube (I manufactured to accept the gen crown) Hands lumed And what about that dial??

No, not touched. Hands have been relumed to match... More guesses???

Sorry, no artsyfartsy pics, the photographer is out with a headach, so you had to do with my photo skills. No one has figured this one out yet...

One day I went to my watch winder...and there is was...GONE! The Stealth that is, not my watch winder... It has a new home, and I believe I did put up the final picture when it was all finished, here it is: I am planning on doing some more custom PVD stuff, and have another 212 that I may use again...or another case for something different...

I would also like to compare in side by side in person, but it's hard to find a doner case. I did up another post with a comparison to a genuine PVD crown, best I could come up with. And I agree, as long as it looks good, it's all good...

I think it looks good as well. It would be easier to see the results if the lighting was less bright or the flash turned off...by a window out of the direct sun works best. Well done.

Sorry, I don't know or remember the origin of this particular case. As for the PVD coating...it's PVD coating, not making clone babies from stem cells...sheesh...what is the big deal. I will continue to trust my friends, people lie when there is a motive, in this case, no motive = no reason to lie. Back on topic, the PVD and the end results look good, nothing else matters...glad the members like it.

These dials are so nice, I just can't get enough of them. A slight variation on the other PVD watch, this dial and hands is an exact match to the genuine one I used for reference. Work done: PVD coating (through my own source) Drilled lugs for double screw bars Manufactured new CG lever pin, flattened and polished Dial lumed in my custom mix Hands lumed Dial flat clear coated H3 cannon and hour wheels Being a dark colour, the camera makes it appear much darker than it is in person. Adjusting the exposure, this is what the colour actually looks like in person. I have a genuine PVD crown and compared it to the PVD case coating, (this is not the same watch as above), in looking at both colour and finish, I think the match is very good. I am very happy with the results. Genuine PVD crown compared to my PVD coating.

New dial installed, and an actual working new DW as well. What do you think?

I am not promising anything to anyone. The PVD coating company I use is also very famous and does great work (pictures speak for themselves) and I am not going to call my long time RWG friend a liar. Unless someone can prove it wrong, I am going to trust in my friends word, what reasons would he have to lie about this? if you can't trust your friends, who can you trust? Back on topic, FGD dials rule! thanks S.

Of course the PVD company knows what they have done ... I was told this and I have no reason to not believe the person who passed on the information to me. Do you know?

Here's the transformation of a standard B&R with some Genuine Super Luminova BG lume. I relumed the dial with Gloss finish BG lume, and did the hands in Flat finish, even did the bezel dot for good measure. A steady hand and a few beers are a must to get these type of results

This is my own sourced PVD coating, and a FGD dial, the results are wonderful. The dial is lumed my own custom vintage Tritium mix, and the hands are also my own custom colour done up lighter as per the genuine watch. I get the PVD done at the same factory that Panerai used for the original Pre-V watches. I do all the teardown and prep work, send the cases directly to the coating factory, and then assemble the final product when the coating is completed. The end results are very impressive. Hope you like it as much as I do...

Here is what I started with, quite a bit of wear showing, the bezel numbers are missing a lot of the paint, there is a lot of damage overall, and it's in need of some TLC Movement was completely overhauled and here is the watch being tested on the analyzer and adjusting the beat and rate. Movement analyzer printout shows that the movement is in Beat and the timing is +6 seconds a day, which should just about even out when the watch is worn. Details of the case, bezel, and bracelet re-finishing compared to when it arrived, a noticeable improvement. BEFORE AFTER

I always use a strip of plastic in the lever hole to tighten the feel. I can machine the new pin to be snug, but metal on metal will wear out eventually and the lever will become loose. I leave just enough room for the strip of plastic which will not wear out and it works fine.

Understood on the Flav situation... On the CG pin, I have had a few that were really tight as well, most of the V ones fit into this category. The solution was to drive the old pin out with a staking tool and manufacturer a new pin to replace the old one, and tighten up the lever at the same time. Most of the CG's have too small a pin head and the pin isn't flat topped, making a new pin on the lathe allowed correction of these two issues and tightening of the lever. Ditto on dluddy's comments re V2 dial, although it probably glows incredibly bright, that type of lume is incorrect for this dial, it should be a nice vintage patina tritium. Where would be without members like FGD.

V3 is the best of all, impossible to beat a FGD dial, although I find the as delivered lume to be a bit too light in colour compared to the gen. When did Flav start working on reps again? I though he refused to do any rep work after what took place here two years ago. Congrats and enjoy and wear it well.

Thanks, glad it was informative.

Well documented Francisco. I did the same project a while back to see if I could get the gear to work in the Asian 7750. Only problem was the cost of the gear and the time to do the modifications (I only have a watchmaker's lathe, so all is done by hand). I would have to charge $75 for the gear to only break even...not worth it... Thanks for taking the time to document the process, your lathe is much BIGGER than mine...

The problem is that our movements are surplus (ETA movements) and therefore the condtion is unknown. Some movements are clean and unused, others are very old and in dire need of servicing. There is no way to really know the condition until you open it up and have a look. As a rule of thumb, if your planning on keeping the watch, and it's running fine, I would plan on having it serviced at some time 1-2 years, to protect your investment. If the watch doesn't run well, or starts running faster, it's time to have it looked at.

Common problem. The day wheel (unlike the datewheel) is not attached to the movement, it sits loose on top of the movement and the dial holds it in place. There is supposed to be minimal spacing between the dial and the day wheel to prevent it from popping off. The rep doesn't have a washer installed on the wheel whereas ETA movements have a washer. The washer helps to keep the wheel in place. Many rep dials have too much space betwen the day wheel and the dial. Some reps actually have a cut out depression on the backside of the dial and that worsens the problem. The fix is to take the hands and dial off, inspect and find the problem, add the washer, and hope that you can fix the defect.

Many of the data and servicing instruction datasheets have been upgraded and changed on the ETA website. From what I can see, the changes are directly related to feedback on various problem area's with the movements and recommendations and new procedures to improve reliability. So if your into repair of any ETA movements, have a look and download and print the latest and greatest. The newest versions are all dated "2009" https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopDefault.as...=3&tabid=28

Here's some feedback from the headquarters in Switzerland.

There is no standard condition of a A7750. All need to be serviced, some are soaked in grease and oil, others are completely dry. All are clean. If your not experiencing any problems I would enjoy the watch, if after a year or so you still like it and expect to keep it for a long time, consider having it serviced.