dachshund

Depress the small round button on the back of the link while you are trying to remove the pin from.

No, the crown and the stem are two different pieces, the stem simply screws into the crown, glueing the stem into the crown won't help, you need a replacement crown.

Your stem is OK as Finepics said, the problem is with the crown, its a sprung crown and the rachet of teeth tha engage when the crown is unscrewed are stripped. Davidsen has replacement crowns which should fix your problem.

It can be fixed, but you will probably have to pull the movement, hands and dial, then get into the keyless works on the dial side to the movement. Unless you are comfortable with working on movements, you'll need to find a repairman.

Randy Jules Borel lists two heights for the 2824: 1.01 255/ETA 2600 1.26 250/952.101 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi?ref=ETA_2824-2 Hope this helps.

Hi Randy, Do I have to retap the tube hole on my Sub LV to accept the 6mm Rollie tube? Or it will fit straight in? Also I am quite confused about the gasket. Some said there should be one between the tube and the case interface, and some said no. Which is correct on the gen.? Thanks. bertieng I'm not Randy, but I'll try to answer your question. You might be able to force the tap without redrilling, but I don't suggest it, your are subject to seize the tap thus breaking it, much better to drill first, then make sure to lubricate the tap while doing the tapping. The case on the rep does not have the same milling where the tube screws into the case to accomodate the gasket properly, rep case is flat and gen is recessed for lack of a better term. I find it very helpful to countersink the tapped hole, and I countersink by hand not machine, this lets the tube set a bit deeper into the case and doesn't hold the crown too high from the case when all is reassembled.

http://www.julesborel.com/images/horological/page202.gif The tube wrench listed (SKT1060) is for gents, 6.0, it works on all modern rolex crown tubes for mens watches.

Good post Thor, I've said exactly this same thing for some time now. I can't see the need for full information to all members like dealers need, but at least post their screen name so that all members can see them. WTF should I not be privilaged to this information so that I could avoid a deal with some Ahole like this.

Hard choice for only three. 1. 007 Original run with 2892, nearly as perfect as a rep can get. 2. 029 Again very close to original (Daily Beater) 3. Seamaster 300 black another from the old supply, very, very close to genuine. Soon to be, DW 6263 with transplanted heart (VJ 72)

The original topic implied that the pictures were taken to hide flaws,primararly date fonts in question. What difference does it make, if it's a dealers picture in question, with very few exceptions you are not going to receive the watch that was photographed anyway.

Marrikvilleboy Thanks, good information to have. @Pug Got it fixed!

My question is not the reliabity of the rep 2892 (ST-18), I have 3 or 4 and all have given good service to this point, but about the repair of the ST-18, do any of you movement experts know if the ST-18 will accept ETA 2892 parts for repair, if so....... fine, if not we have the same problem that we have with DW movements, no parts for repair.

Let me help wreck you average, thank God for Warburg, I'm 60.

Shultz I don't think what you are suggesting is going to solve your problem. If I understand correctly, you want to move the date wheel closer to the face of the dial, moving the date wheel closer to the face of the dial is going to weaken the image, not make it larger.

Hands are not interchangeable. Those numbers are the size of the hole where the hand presses onto the hour, minute, and seconds shafts.

http://www.julesborel.com/watchmovements.htm Jules Borel carries the generic tube, good quality, fit gen case and crown correctly. (US) http://www.clockspares.net/index.asp Clockspares, Cousins, carries the same tube, should be quicker since you are in UK.

Watcher Put a SMALL drop of oil on the tube threads, does wonders to help it thread correctly onto to the tube. Just be gentel when screwing the crown on the tube and it should be fine.

Click the link listed below, select 029, then select the pic for the 029. http://www.paneristi.com/reference/vendome/numbers.html Take a good look at the photo of the gen and look at your rep, the minute track and the hour indices are considerably farther away from the rehaut than on the rep. Pay particular attention to how far the "T Swiss Made T" is from the rehaut. All of the above mentioned flaws by others can be fixed, but the dial is just plain wrong and nothing short of a new dial can repair the flaw. Please don't take me wrong, I own the 029 (It's now my daily beater), if it were any more accurate as a time keeper I'd probably have to have QUARTZ printed on the dial........I wouldn't get rid of it for love nor money), but that doesn't change the fact that the flaw is present. It also has the incorrect serial numbers on the case back, again that doesn't bother me in the least, but it is incorrect. If you are looking for an almost dead on rep..........063 (also have the 063), has B (incorrect) instead of C (correct) on serial on the case back, replace the date font, cyclop, and crown, your about as close as you are going to get on any rep. BTW, as mentioned I own both the 029 and 063, know the flaws are there, and in all likelyhood will never do the mods even though I am able to do these myself, they really just don't bother me. I'm not asking any of you to quit discussing reps, just lighten up a little an enjoy these damn fine watches.

Two for me.

Ben Waaaaah Virtualy all mechanicals tick, tha Bulova Acutron was the truest think to a true sweep that I know of, yours should be either a 6 and most prob an 8 tick per second, which is correct. (Same a Rolex, etc.)

The unreliabality of the so called 7750 be it Swiss or Asian has nothing to do with the 3,6,9 or 6,9, 12 placement. What effects the reliabality is moving the running seconds from 9 to 6 with the added gears, that puts added strain on the movement. And yes Swiss is much better than Asia, according to our own polls on old RWG, almost 50% of the Asian 7750 developed some type of problem early on. ( That poll did not include the newest Asian with the 28,800 beat, was not in existance then)

As far a I know the only way to fix the problem is to pull the hands and replace them in the proper sync. position. Should be a simple fix.

Is there even a GMT hand on this watch, just wondering if my eyes are failing me?

http://www.paneristi.com/reference/vendome/numbers.html Pic of gen on paneristi.com, 029 shows T SWISS T, not L SWISS L, don't know it there were any dial changes or options as ubiquitous stated, guess its possible. 029 is definately a B series watch, even if incorrect, really don't care, super nice watches.

Eddie, Trusty, etc, etc have all had issues with PP from time to time and I hear the complaint that we stupid customers type anything and everything into the description box at PP and causes them problems. I'm not trying to tell them how to run their business, but if I kept having this problem repeatedly I would stop accepting payment directly from a PP account, in the alternative I would issue an invoice so that the customer only has to submit payment and can not enter any information at all, customer just responds with a direct payment of said invoice. I also think Eddie and Josh are on the right track with a blackball list of customers, it should be carried a step further, it should be made public where it protects all members and not just the dealers. Their real name as well as their screen name should be included in case the register again under a different screen name. Example: Brian Panell=FlawlessTime, SweepinSwiss, Base and God knows what else.