TeeJay

No problem at all, I'm glad to be of help Personally speaking, I tend to stick with Asian movements myself, as I have found them to be perfectly reliable as time-keepers, and I am sure that in most instances, the case, dial and bracelet are exactly the same

Actually, there is something about the Milgauss which I don't understand, and wondered if anyone could shed light on... With the insert markings, is there a reason why they only have 1,2,3,4,5 markings, rather than the 10,20,30,40,50 minute markers on Subs/SDs?

Welcome to the party You might want to keep an eye on this thread about Asian V Swiss, and see what comments people make

Personally speaking, I just don't like not wearing a watch and not being able to tell the time should I need to, so I prefer to wear a watch which I can keep on without worrying about if it gets wet or not

To address each in turn I charge the lume from an LED torch immediately before retiring, so although maybe not 'lightsaber bright', it is still visible through till dawn Thanks for the suggestions One of the things I have done, is put strips of luminous tape around the skirting boards in the bathroom. The house is never pitch black dark, but that just gives a little extra guidance

If I was a vampire, I wouldn't need lume to be able to read the time in the dark The truth of the matter, is that my eyes are quite sensitive to bright light, so turning on a bedside light at 3 AM to read the time, is not only potentially disturbing for my wife, but also very painful for me, so it's much easier all round, if I wear a watch with a luminous hands and dial [Edit to add] In recent years, my eyes have become increasingly sensitive to bright light, and I now have to wear sunglasses if traveling by car at night, to prevent the oncoming lights hurting my eyes.

I'm not one for accuracy full stop, Doc, I'd've thought that was understood by now Sure as a collection piece, it's certainly a nice watch, and I can understand it being an acquired taste, but from a personal point of view, I like to be able to read the time easily from dial lume, or at least luminous hands. I seem to remember there being a link to a similar watch on eBay within the past week or so, and I liked the look of it, from an aesthetic point of view, it just wouldn't have met my own needs, so it never struck me as one I would want to add to the collection

No problem at all To be honest, as above, I have only had one watch which was not water-resistant 'out of the box', so as long as you make sure the case-back is closed as securely as possible, and the crown is closed down, as long as the crystal is properly seated, you shouldn't have an issue with water-resistance. Of course, it's always worth testing a watch before wearing it to a pool party, or some other kind of 'public submersion' With regards the movement and the plating, I have no idea how you would verify that, although to be honest, with a solid caseback, rather than a display back, as on a Panerai, the appearance of the movement itself is pretty redundant, afterall, who, other than a watchsmith, is ever going to see it As for time-keeping, as I mentioned in HikeUSA's thread, I've always found Asian movements perfectly reliable, and all the Asian movements I had, kept better time 'out of the box', than a Swiss movement I had... At the end of the day, the choice is yours

Doc was meaning that with a caseback opener, and a tub of grease, you can do the proofing yourself Certainly with regards the o-ring seals, although the crystal might need some more professional attention (if it needs attention, that is )

That's an awesome review It's interesting to see the DSSD next to the SMP... In comparison to another watch, it doesn't look so huge anymore Wear it well

I've only had problems with one rep not having water resistance out of the box, and that was a manufacturing flaw. I've had a chrono rep which was water resistant, taken several photos of my reps under water, and have no quarms getting any of them wet as long as: They are on an SS bracelet or Rubber strap, and have all the o-rings in place. When the plexi crystal on my vintage sub started to leak a bit, I fixed it in place with epoxy... No more leaks

Personally, I can't see any advantage in a Swiss movement, unless it is for something like the fit of a pair of hands... The Swiss movement I had kept worse time than any of my Asian movements... Swiss might be repairable, but, Asian is disposable and replaceable for less than Swiss repairs...

Hopefully, in the next few days (postal strike in the UK) but there's going to be a review with the pics as well

Any time, bro Oh, and re the Snowflake... Keep watching this space, I'm going to be looking forward to your input in the not too distant future

I can only speak for myself on this subject, but personally speaking, while I think the watch looks awesome, the lack of lume on the hands would make it totally impractical to my personal requirements, compared to the hands of a Submariner, so I wonder if maybe others might feel the same, which might account for a lack of examples shown?

That's a fine collection, brother An inspiration, as always

Very nice indeed Wear it well

I know what you mean, I've used a black marker as well, and as you say, it never quite matches You're absolutely right, it would be possible to get an exact color match with paints, but, there's no way I could achieve that level of precision with a brush. To be honest, even the marker tip is too big really, but it 'bleeds' onto the existing print quite nicely, so I can get a neater job, than I would with brush

Cool Happy modding I wasn't planning on creating a GMT II C dial from a regular dial, but, for my GMTIICSub project, I wanted to tint the 'Submariner' text green to match with the GMT hand

I'm still wearing the NATO project sub, which will hopefully start looking a bit different soon

Thanks for checking, and that'll be close enough for me The source of the color is the green from a set of 0.4mm Staedtler Lumocolor permanant markers

Thanks for the feedback, that's interesting to know To the naked eye, it appears very similar to how the color appears on the watch, I just thought I'd get some clarification from those who have studied the watch more extensively than myself No, I haven't access to them. I've used online Pantone reference before, but not actually got a set of cards myself.

Just the auto settings on the camera, and with and without flash... I would say that the first photo most closely represents the color as it appears to the naked eye, how would you say that was if taking it at face value?

Bumpbumpittybumpbumpbump

Any time, amigo