TeeJay

Looking good Maybe give the case a bit of a flogging to match with the dial/hands color, and I'd say job done

take it to one of those sunbed places where you pay by slot/coins

Well, the stock lume on it was pretty bad to begin with. Just half an hour ago I put the watch under a flourescent light for about 20 seconds and shut out the light and in a darkened room, the lume glowed just as bright. The half life of the stock lume is probably around 10 mins. or so. I wasn't expecting huge lume on this model anyways.

I figure it the stock lume on a watch is pretty good to begin with, the crayola felt marker wouldn't make any appreciable difference.

The only thing with this method is that you can't really do the dial. I tried using the felt marker over the dial as well; it just have it a shiny glossy wet look. So I just washed it off and did the lume markers and the minute markers and the lettering as well. Oh yeah, the hands too.

That's cool that it doesn't affect the lume I just had the crazy idea of using a butane lighter to selectively heat certain areas of the dial (avoiding the text and indices) to try and get the brown look I'll have to wait till I get more parts to try it, but given that it's heat (as was the case with the baking under the grill) I'm wondering if it might work

It's a couple of factors for me... I've been focussing a lot of time on networking trying improve my business, I've also been trying to deal with financial issues which require full attention to research to take care of. On top of that, as mentioned, thanks to financial situations, I haven't been buying much, so feel that I don't really have much input to provide in terms of 'new material'. Sure, I'm happy to help out or discuss topics where available, but I do feel there are only so many times I can post the same wrist shot

True, but remember too that I've had this in the sun for 13 years already. I wonder if I finally got it baked enough to turn?

The color of the insert is just a little too blue for my eye, I'd like to grey it up. Any ideas? That was LOTS of time in bleach. Like a total of an hour and 55 minutes so far.

It looks fantastic I'm not exactly sure of the factory source for the parts I used in my project, but that got the same browning effect via grilling, so I'm wondering if UV exposure might have done the same thing (out of curiousity, does the bleaching affect the luminous quality at all?)

I wouldn't like to say about the insert... I've found that once it 'goes blue', that's a step before it strips down to the bare metal of the insert, so I really wouldn't know what to suggest there...

Here is my attempt at the aged look.

very easy to do, in fact so stupidly easy.

I used a washable Crayola childrens dark brown felt marker and just coloured in the markers.

Used a Q-tip to smooth it out to the right patina-like hue. Best of all, it is washable in case you don't like the first try.

Interesting Out of curiosity, has that had any impact on the visibility of the lume?

"I think it might work, but, would the emissions of a UV lamp be concentrated enough? I don't want to have to leave it running for 20 years to get the look "

Not so, you'd have the inverse square law working for you.

Try JC Whitney.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=ZX473463&zmam=73771597&zmas=4&zmac=78&zmap=ZX473463

Fantastic, thanks for the link

Just the usual for me My (currently ) favorite watch, to go with my favorite clothes

Only way I know of is to put the thing in a UV tester. We have one at work and I played around with a dial. It shoots concentrated UV at an object so that it simulates years of use but in a matter of days. Leave it in for 7 days and you have the same effect of IIRC, 25 years. Turned out ok. I'll try and do another one and show the results.

Now that's a good idea Only problem is getting access to one

As above, if you're not familiar with movements, definitely best to take it to a professional or send it back...

I heard a rattling in my wife's DJ after it took a hit when the bracelet failed, thinking it would just be a loose rotor (which technically, it was) I opened the caseback to put it back in place. The only problem was the entire auto-wind assembly had self-destructed, and I was faced with several very small cogs and gears

Best of luck getting it taken care of

What an awesome gift Big thumbs up all round

Sounds good, I'll look forward to seeing the results

When I ordered a Vacheron Constantin Overseas with an Asian movement, it was the same case etc as the Swiss version. While I would acknowledge that some of the really cheap reps can be lacking in quality, I would still say that some of the cheaper watches can be just as nice as their more expensive counterparts... Welcome to the party

Thanks a lot for all this tips. I think I will try more or less everything while waiting to solve the crystal issue. It's real fun to start this kind of project.

Regarding the insert:

- First step: Bath of "cillit" bang for 45 min to remove the gloss finish.

- Second step: bath of 50%water 50% bleach during 10 min

- Third step: Bath od pure bleach until I saw black paint in the beach (around 5 min I think) . Beware that the result is seen only after drying the insert, so stay close !

No problem at all, I'm always glad to help out where I can The crystal method would only work on an acrylic crystal, a sapphire crystal would be un-affected by the abrasives

Ahh, that's a much less aggressive bleaching process than I used on mine... The substance I used was labeled as an oven cleaner (which I think contained bleach) and about it did not take long (maybe less than 2 minutes) to completely strip one bezel, and the second one, although I am happy with the bleaching on most of the insert, the extra bleach I applied at 12 and 1 was a mistake, and I was surprised that it stripped the paint as quickly as it did... The one thing I would point out, is that I have found that if you put some scratches across the insert before the bleaching, the bleaching process makes them appear quite 'mild' and well blended, where any scratches done after the bleaching process, appear much more stark

[Edit to add]

I just realized that I put the toothpaste and nailfile steps in the wrong order, so I amended my original post to correct that

Hi Friends!

just want to show of my lightly modded Yacht-Master.

Because I hate the rattling Sound of the original delivered Clasp on my YM, I asked BK for something different that's more solid.

He sold me this GMT Master II Ceramic Clasp and I think it fits the Watch really good.

How do you like it?

Cheers

R.

Looks good I know of a gen watch collector who installed a Daytona clasp on his Yacht-Master, to get the more substantial feeling clasp

Fantastic watches all, some fine custom pieces on show as well

Awesome It's not often that we see a blue Seamaster strap

Looks like you like your dials "well done." Thanks for posting your methods. I'll be aging some pieces eventually and this will help. hopefully the experts will chime in with some great methodolgy.

I'm definitely a fan of the vintage look, much less low-key than modern box-fresh

All I did with the dial was stuck it under the grill for 30 seconds, nothing fancy I'm just wondering if something over the markers might protect them from the heat, so the dial surface cooks, but the markers don't... That said, thinking about it, if the base of the dial heats up, then that would heat the markers from underneath... I think the only way to find out for sure is to actually do it

What about placing it directly under a UV lamp in the back of a closet or garage?

Never done this, just brainstorming.

I think it might work, but, would the emissions of a UV lamp be concentrated enough? I don't want to have to leave it running for 20 years to get the look

If you're looking to replicate the look of Nanuq's DRSD, you have another problem aside from the indices. The dial text. Crisp white and pinky-red. Yours will turn as coffee-coloured as the unmasked indices have on your first attempt.

I don't think there's a solution to be honest - as for the indices alone, I doubt blu-tac would hold up to heat anyway even for a short period, it would probably liquify and mess up your dial.

You have to remember that it's not just the years of UV exposure that gives that 1665 that effect, it was specific to those Mk.II dials, the type of paint that was used and how it aged generally (same deal with the rare cream dial Explorer II), hence why it is now known as a "chocolate" dial.

That's some really interesting feedback, thanks You're absolutely right about the lettering as well, I think this might be an impossible idea... I have to admit, I've never tried heating blutac, I'd wondered if it might have baked hard, but thinking about it, you're probably right about it liquifying over the dial, and that's not really the result I had in mind That's interesting to know that it was specific paint involved in the process as well

I was thinking about this photo Nanuq posted a while back, which showed how the lume had been bleached white by the sun, and the UV had also started to 'brown the dial'.

When I tried aging my dial, I did so by baking it under the grill for 30 seconds, and achieved the following result...

Obviously a bit too much browning on the dial, but also, the markers are similarly much darker. For my second attempt, I was planning on only baking the dial for 10-15 seconds, to get a less browned result on the dial, but, I'm thinking that the result of the indices would still be too dark, so I've had an idea, and wondered if anyone thought there was any validity to it...

Might precisely covering each hour marker with blutac protect it from the heat, while the dial is being baked?

Has anyone any other suggestions how I might be able to achieve a baking of the dial while protecting the markers to create that sun bleached look?

I confirm this is a good step before a quick bleaching. I bought bleach yesterday and it gives a good result IMO. I'll post pictures later

The result of the insert

May be a little too much, but I like it like that (never the same when you do things on your own )

I wouldn't say that was too much at all, if anything, it's a very controlled bleaching, how long did you submerge the insert in the bleach for?

Just positionned on the case to have an idea of the final look. Still need to age the case but I do not know really the method. Any suggestion ?

Many will advocate putting the watch in a pocket with keys and cash for a few days, and that will get some small marks into the case. If you want to put a few 'more serious' impacts into some key positions, you could try scraping the case/bracelet against rough housebricks, ceramic tiles, or even holding a pair of sharp scissors open, and then using the cutting edge of one blade to 'scratch' a mark into the case. I have found that if you put the marks into the case, they can still 'look fresh', so I would suggest going over any marks with a green scotchbrite pad, just to help 'blend them in' a bit. If you have an acrylic crystal, I have found a good way of scratching the crystal, and getting it nicely 'crazed', is to use a pocket knife to put a few scratches in place, then using the 4-surface nail file in circular motions all over the crystal, starting with the most coarse, working up to the finiest grit, then buff over the crystal using toothpaste as a rubbing compound on tissue paper, then repeat the entire process with the 4-surface nail file and toothpaste a few times, to ultimately achieve a result like these

Hah hah...it's not a matter of coolness...it's a matter of I have a high "potential sucker" rating.

That's true... I'd best get myself booked in for the forehead 'chump' tattoo

It's the nature of the business they are in. If they don't like it,and it isn't profitable, they should maybe just close up shop, or sell their operations to another company.

Of course that won't happen, they just budget for a certain amount of counter efforts to ensure their potential customers they are getting their money's worth...which the customer ultimately pays for in higher prices.

So they kind of do it to themselves in a strange way.

Absolutely so. They create the demand through marketing, and create an inflated price tag which some people simply are less likely to be able to afford, so those who have been swayed by the marketing and want the product find themselves not being able to afford said product, but still wanting it, so they start searching for the next best alternative: Reps. Indeed, they [the corporate moguls] do it to themselves, as they create a demand which creates it's own void, which rep manufacturers are then able to fill...

I don't think the gen manufacturers are following the experiences of manufacturers in other fields. For years in the guitar business, first Japan, then Korea, were thorns in the side of Fender and Gibson, etc, so both gave in and created a cheaper brand manufactured in Japan and Korea, but with official sanction so the perceived value was greater. It also provided an upgrade path from a Far East model to a 'proper' US made model, gave them product separation, no longer Fender and fake or copy Fender, and no doubt gave them some clout with local government. Most other big guitar manufacturers have followed suit. This allowed them to maintain both a reasonable market share and the prestige of their high end models, even if this is simply perceived and not actual and has been pretty successful. The cheaper brands are well thought of and, more importantly, seen as an upgrade from reps now manufactured in China. The next logical move will be Fender/Gibson/etc manufacturing in China.

Maybe Rolex should be considering a Replex with clever marketing to make it something special for the less well off.

That is a very interesting example, and indeed, maybe something like that would be the ideal solution Everyone saves face, everyone gets to keep doing what they're doing, and the buyers still get to keep making their own decision

Of course, it could create the situation where: Dude walks into AD and asks to see a Submariner... Sure, Sir, says the assistant, Swiss or Asian version? What's the difference? asks the dude... About $1000 in price, says the assistant... I'll take the Asian version, replies the dude

All I'm thinking, is would the average customer be willing to spend the extra dollars, for differences which would only be appreciated by a watch enthusiast? (who by extension, would also appreciate the Asian version for it's own merits...)

I got one this time

As long as I have these I'm good to go.. my other gadgets would only clutter the photo..

A big dog needs for nothing else

I suspect he pays less bribes than the factories have to.

Yes, and it may not be PAYE, but at the end of the day, it is still 'being taxed', in some form...

You think the Deep Sea had no design costs? Interesting ...

I said that?

Okay, yes, Rolex have released some new models of late, and, they've even been good enough to throw a new bracelet design in here and there, but for the most part, the EXP IIs, the DJs, the Subs, etc, (what I would suspect to be their staple sellers) are all long established designs, which costs would have been recouped on some time ago...

also think of the craftmanshipp cost of a swiss watchmith compare to the average salary in china.

Swiss industry also regualy upgrade there machinery to the "state of the art"

A friend of mine who had the chance to visit JLC manufacture after an advertizing contract was explained how they had to order specific tooling that costed billion of dollar, just to be able to produce the gyro tourbillon.

Oh for sure, there's always going to be some examples where the cost is actually more reasonable, but, I don't see any Rolexes with a gyro tourbillon