TeeJay

Aha, that explains it-I didn't drill them and didn't realize they dont go all the way through. There is no space whatsoever between the strap and the lugs, probably going to have to mess up the strap. Oh well.

Fake lug holes FTL.

Is there absolutely no chance of working a knife blade between the side of the strap and lug?

If the springbars had the raised ridges at the tip, just slide a pocket-knife between the strap and case, and a tweak of the wrist should engage the ridge without damaging strap or case. Or, if the bars are totally straight tips, you could always try a straightened paperclip to try and press the springbar from the outside

Things went a bit OTT with this attempt at bleaching...

The watch looks pretty different now...

(at present, it's actually minus movement, but I might finish it off again oneday, as it's still the most comfortable watch I own )

Fantastic resurrection

Keep up, muchachos, these've been available for quite some time... Yes, they are quartz, but they do have a functional stopwatch (and 24 hour tracking hand) They also don't fog up when they get wet

I think you are exactly correct.

It appears to be a fine product though, and I've never minded spending money on something expensive which I consider to be worth the cost As mentioned before, the compatibility with the watch's existing clasp is something which (to me) makes it worth the pricetag (although of course, it could definitely be done cheaper )

As it turns out, the working He valves on aftermarket cases & some reps are designed like the gens. In case you missed it, read this.

Thanks for the link, I didn't realize that the MBWs had the faux valves, I'm glad I haven't asked a friend in Bangkok to have a look at the prices in the mall, as that would've really ground my gears, I think I'll just wait and see what happens when I eventually order one from WatchEden and hope for the best

However, as I see it, the only reason to have a proper working valve is so that, upon close inspection, the watch looks gen. Having an engraving or etching in the side of the case is an obvious give-away of fakery.

You are correct there, there is no need for a land-lubber like me to actually need the functional HE valve on the watch at all, and it is certainly a function which I would never see used. For me though, the knowledge that it was non-functional would probably irritate. A bit like the aforementioned faux chronos. I don't mind if a rep Daytona might have one of those day/date/24 hour movements, as those hands still perform a function, but when a watch has a dial with subdials marked out, and a hand just glued in place... That's what I really find frustrating Of course, as before, it's all a pretty much moot point at the moment till I can spare the cash to buy the piece, as with the lume tests, I'm just doing my groundwork to try and get a good project out of it Of course, anyone seeing it who knows what it is, would likely immediately know something was wrong ( ie why would I be wearing one... ) but I'd still like everything on it to actually work properly

I have never been a big fan of aftermarket rubber straps (still not ). But, when you need to tone down the bling, all I can say is desperate times call for desperate measures.

They do indeed Of course, a cheaper option would have been to re-finish the bracelet and brush the mid-links

I know what you are saying, but, as is the case when comparing cases on standard Daytona reps with those from Phong or NDT, which are many times more expensive even though the metal is the same. The only real difference is that the more expensive item is sized/dimensioned more accurately than the cheaper item. That just does not make sense & it is the same with these straps. Yes, they mate very well with the metal parts, but does it really cost more to measure accurately?

I suspect that the price tag is so they can target the product at gen Rolex owners who would feel that a $20 aftermarket strap was 'sullying' their watch, but would feel more comfortable fitting a rubber strap with a higher price tag I think 'end use' is all important when it comes to things like this, especially the cases. If someone wants to do an accurate build, they will be willing to spend the money to buy the necessary parts. If accuracy is less important, the cheaper alternatives tend to be acceptable. It's like I'm wondering if the HE valve on the 1665s available at the $250 mark from dealers is actually functional, or purely cosmetic. Part of me says functional would be nice, but I'm not likely to be saturation diving any time soon, so it's really not an essential feature. I guess my view on it is a bit like faux chronos: I'd rather they did something, or be totally omitted... Of course, I can't see myself having the spare cash for some time, so it's a pretty moot point at the moment

I never wear watches tight & I cut it with sufficient length for future expansion, if required.

Glad to hear I'm not sure if you remember the silicone strap I had a year or so back (mysteriously got lost somehow ) but that had a flat back to it, and it really did get uncomfortably warm at times, especially compared to the way more comfortable Tropic-style

Cheers T, trying to break my record for not checking the tracking web site at all - up to 3 days now

Any time

That's going to be a really nice project for sure Can't wait to see the finished article

Teejay - I cannot say there is $200 worth of material/technology in the 2 flat pieces of rubber I received (especially since they package it without any instructions, which is likely to be a problem for the average gen owner - they are working on that), but I have been wearing the watch since I received the strap & really like the way it looks (compared to the blingy bracelet that comes with GMTIICs). At least, I am not constantly having to pull my sleeve down over my watch to keep from blinding unsuspecting passersby.

That doesn't surprize me at all about the cost/value ratio, but, here's a little something which might surprise you, I wouldn't mind paying the cost for a strap like that which can be fitted to the existing parts. Sure, it's expensive, and could probably be done a lot cheaper, but, to me, that compatibility translates into value for money... It's funny how my moral compass can work sometimes when it comes to an item's value (It's like, I'm happy to pay the dealer price on a DRSD, because that is what the real thing would've cost back in the seventies ) Glad to hear you're enjoying it though I was going to advise you against cutting it that extra notch tighter, but you'd already done it by the time I posted, I hope it's still got enough freedom of movement to give good ventilation so it doesn't get too hot

find on the web a shop who sells Lifecolor products, look for #LC33 Matt phosphor, very easy to work, apply, remove and dry in minutes. its acrylic which mixt with water, add an acrylic ivory pigment powder from an artist shop and get your vintage lume

with humbrol you could get a big mess

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into that product

Thanks sir TJ.

No worries And for those who like the vintage style to their rubbers...

Anal enough to know that my paygrade wont let me get a SD Im to young aswell, in 10 years i can have it np

Hmm that superocean is supernice, and not that expensive at the AD so i could pull that of. Now i just need to find it at a dealer with SS strap..

Oh well, you could always keep it as a 'home wear only' watch

it looks a little too white to me TJ bu that may just be the colour settings on my PC

Thanks There was another color available which was a few shades darker, I might pick that up another day and see what I can mix up

[Edit to add]

This is the closest example of the look I'm looking to achieve in terms of dial and insert colors

Fantastic work, they all look first rate

Hm ill have to run down to the AD and se whats what.

Thnx TeeJay for the support. But the minute i walk in at the office with a replica SD my co workers will notice. My office is cluttered with Rolex/Breits and they are anal about it..

Anal enough to tell a rep from a gen? In that case, maybe something like the TAG or UN would be best

I know what you mean about the colour of those dials and also agree that they are too even and too yellow, tritec is slightly opaque and by puting a white over the top a bit of yellow shows through but with the paint you are using i dont know,

I belive that a nice ivory looks good on a watch this age

This place will give you some nice gen dials to look and and find a colour you like

Thanks for the link, I've had a good look on there, as well as google images, and found some good reference for what I want to copy What would you say to the color in this pic? It's ivory and luminous paint, directly over a yellow background...

Hi all,

Im in the search for a big divers watch, and the wholy grale for me is the SeaDweller. Sadly i cant pull that one of. But i want something looking like it.

If you want as SD, get one. Anything else will only ever be an 'almost there/not quite' substitute. Don't worry about pulling it off, it's your watch, it's meant to be on your wrist. That's all that matters

I found a better paint... Humbrol Ivory How does this look instead?

That looks fantastic, and happy birthday

Nice find No setting this one on fire or rolling it off a cliff to test it's durability

It looks great It looks to be a really quality product, and the fit to the parts is excellent It's definitely a step up from the rubber straps available which mimic the ridges of a presidential bracelet

We're spoiled for great how-to's in the last week. I love your progress, bonesey. Are you planning on challenging jmb for the Cheap Ba$tard crown?

Dude, I'm such a Cheap Ba$tard I just think about projects to do

More excellent results, amigo, nicely done, and awesome write up