clem2192

So 2824-2 with H4 canon pinion.......done Thanks guys! Now to search for a TC or WM9 case set, ideally used that someone may have laying around as I don't have the budget for new....yet

Hi guys, What is the general consensus regarding the best movement for a Franken 16610 ?? Would I be best with either an ETA 2824-2 with h4 canon pinion or 2836?? I will hopefully be using either a TC or Sean case (unless there are others that can take gen parts??), will both movements fit in both cases without modifications?? Obviously I want the movement gives me the best options, I don't want to limit myself to only being able to use 1 case. Help / feedback would be much appreciated Ryan

Gorgeous! Epic build. Congratulations

Very nice!! If you don't mind me asking, where did you pick up the Sean case?? I'm looking for a case for a 16610 build that will take genuine parts and a 2824-2 movement

Can anyone help..... Does a Noob M case take gen parts (crystal, bezel insert, crown & tube) Will it also house a Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement??

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. Looking for a Swiss ETA for a Franken sub project (ideally 2824-2 but whatever is available that fits a 1:1 case, TC, BK or similar) Was there ever a 17 jewel ETA 2842-2 movement? Any good??

Ok so I have decided that I will try to source the parts for my franken build separately as I do not have the funds for a TC Sub Type II as a basis. I want to use a Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement, but which is the best case to use ?? Are there any of the TDs case sets that will house a 2824-2 movement ?? I know TC offer a movement holder for the 2824 movement for use with his cases, will I need something similar with the BK case?? Are there any other case options available to me, I am looking for one that will be capable of taking genuine parts (dial / crystal / bezel / tube / crown) without the need for modification. Also if anyone has a case they may be willing to sell that will be up to the job please drop me a message. Cheers R

Damn, they are they only 2 pictures he sent. I will request more. Looking for a decent movement for a project that I am considering, would something like this suffice for a 16610 Sub build ?? Cheers

What about this one ?? Ryan

Thanks. Wouldn't work anyway, I am looking for a date model. Ideally want a 2824.2 or 2836.2 so the search continues... Thanks again!

Guys, Wondering if anyone can offer me an opinion on this..... Opinions much appreciated. Thanks Ryan

Part received today! Thanks FxrAndy & thanks RWG !!

Looks awesome Ceejay, is that from Andrew @ Trusty Time ?? Whats the sweep like on the second hand??

Thanks afor all the help guys, I have ordered the new PO from Andrew @ Trusty Time so I will keep you updated and post pics once I receive the watch

Yes!! Do share pics !! I must admit the images on the website do not seem to do it justice, the QC pics & Videos seem to do much more for the watch!

Thanks for the info khashayar, much appreciated! I am after the new ceramic bezel version as I much prefer the look of this watch. I'll have a look at Andrew (Trusty Time) and see what he offers on the newer one. Have you purchased one of the newer POs?? Do you know if the newer ones (TrustyTime) are interchangeable with genuine parts??

Hi, Well it looks like the rep bug has well and truly bitten!! Received my first purchase Rolex Sub 16610 from Josh (Perfect Clones) last week and now on the search for my next rep.... A 42mm Omega Planet Ocean 600m. Can anyone recommend the best rep for this model?? I have heard things about the HE valve being in the wrong position and 'Happy Feet', have these issues been rectified in the latest versions?? I know there are 2 sizes 42mm & 45.5mm but the 45.5mm is too big for my tiny wrist !! I would like the model with the orange 12, 6 & 9 digits. Ideally able to take gen parts so I can go the Franken route in the future should I wish to! Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers R

FxrAndy I think I need a 16mm in length pin, is this what you sent? Apologies but only just back to measure! Dan, I think it has a fixed rivet at one end and then a rivet is "pushed" into the other end once in position?? As to how to remove one I wouldn't have a clue !! Anyone confirm the above?? R

No worries mate, thanks. R

True gent! Thank you FxrAndy & thanks RWG!

It's this pin, the one in the middle of the 2 "rolex" embossed plates. hope this helps?? I think it's either 18mm or 20mm long but need someone to confirm! R

I'll try and sort a pic later as away with limited access this weekend. It's the the rivet ended bar on the tri-fold clasp (the one that holds the 2 "Rolex" & "Swiss" embossed plates together. Not sure if that's a good explanation of not!?!

Hi, I need a replacement pressure bar for my 93250 clasp, I believe they are 1.8mm dia. but can someone confirm this?? What length do I need?? Anyone know where I can source a single one in the UK?? Cheers Ryan

Thanks again. Think I'm definitely going with TC as my basis, now to decide whether I want just the case kit, crown, tube etc, V3/V4 bracelet & ETA movement. Then source a gen dial, hands, crystal & bezel insert or whether I purchase a TC Sub Type II and then swap bits as and when, I'm guessing there wouldn't be much difference between the two options?? R

Thanks guys, been researching further and I am keen on the 16610LV model (without the engraving on the rehaut). I am tempted with the TC LV Sub Type II, this look as though it will give me a great basis on which to start a top franken and all I will need for now is a bezel insert to make it wearable. I can then add the genuine crystal, dial, crown at a later date, as well as giving me the option to add a genuine movement (should I ever find one), bracelets etc. further down the line if I wish to Does this sound like a more sensible approach?