Jimmythree

"Just where to buy one?" Since Omega has stopped selling all but a few parts to 'unauthorized' repair shops and parts supply houses, movements are very hard to find and high $$. For this reason, I would consider a regular ETA 255.xxx as long as it fits Ok in the case. The hands will fit but I do not remember if there were any issues with the new movement being too thin or anything else. Since the watch is 20+ years old and not a collector item the different movement will not hurt the value very much. As far as that goes, an ETA 955.xxx might also work and they are a lot less $$. Just be sure to get one the same size and date offset as the original movement because 955.xxx movements come in 10 1/2L and 11 1/2 L sizes. The ETA/Omega 1438 is 2.5mm thick same as an ETA 955.xxx and a regular ETA 255.xxx shows to be 2.45mm thick. Not enough difference to matter. There are quite a few parts supply houses listed on the internet that will have new ETA movements...Cousins in the UK for instance. "Even paid £350 (?) to have it 'serviced' they then quoted £1000+ to repair the watch I bought new for $1000." They sound like a gang of crooks. I've 'serviced' quite a few ETA 255. and 955. movements and the only hard thing about it is lining the step motor pivots up in the plates because of magnetic attraction. Many/most repair shops today have so much overhead that they have to 'steal' $$ from customers to survive. That is their problem, not yours. Imho the motto of most of today's watch repair shops should be 'Rob 'em and Rape 'em with a Smile.' Ha! What you need is someone who can do the work at a reasonable price and does not try to make a month's pay out of a two or three hour job. Other than finding an original Omega movement, the movement swap is very easy. Maybe ask friends, family etc. if they know a retired watch repair guy who still does repair work at home.

Welcome to the forum! Stick around, don't just 'hit and run'. I had an Omega 'Pre SMP' back in the 1990s with an Omega 1438 aka ETA 255.461 that would stop now and then so I put a regular ETA 255.xxx in it. Can't remember the last 3 digits but the only functional difference was the replacement had a conventional date setting method where the date in the 1438 flipped over by moving the hour hand. Do not know the difference between an Omega 1538 and 1438 but the 1438 is a 10 1/2 ligne (23.3 mm) movement and all the other ETA 255.xxx I have listed in a catalog (255.421, 255.462, 255.465, 255.495) are also 10 1/2 ligne size. 1L = 2.12mm. They all are at or above $100 and the 255.462 is $125. My catalog is from November 2020 so the prices have probably changed since then. Btw, there are two used 1538 on eBay...one for $295 and one for $478. (!!!) Good luck! From: Omega caliber 1438 » WatchBase Brand: Omega Reference: 1538 Base: ETA 255.461 Movement: Quartz Display: Analog Diameter: 23.30 Jewels: 6 Reserve: 26280 Date: Date Hands: Hours, Minutes, Seconds Additionals: Chronometer Omega caliber 1438 Brand: Omega Reference: 1438 Base: ETA 255.461 Movement: Quartz Display: Analog Diameter: 23.30 Jewels: 6 Reserve: 26280 Date: Date Hands: Hours, Minutes, Seconds Additionals: Chronometer

"I'd figure the big question is can you fit a plastic crystal to a rafflesdials.com explorer case? I'd think it can be done with a little bit of work. And a few plastic crystals!" Case necks on 16xx, 16xxx, 162xx DJ and 1016 are 29.5mm OD. Bezels for 16xx, 16xxx, 162xx are 30.4mm ID. Bezels for 1016 are 31.0 ID. Dials for 1016 are 27.9mm OD, same as 36mm QS DJ. So...a case with a 29.5mm case neck and dial seat that will accept a 27.9mm dial should work for a 1016 project. No guarantees and I'll check a few cases tomorrow and make changes if there are mistakes. J3/Amc

Model 1003 from early 1960s... Case is 34mm, cal 1560, Yuki dial, ST hands, GS crystal. I've posted this one before iirc, ran across it when hunting for the AKs. One Air-King (!) and one Air-King (?) Upper one is 100% a genuine 14000M with 3130 and the lower one is a replica '14000' with swiss ETA 2836/sapphire. The nos replica 'AK' has a 36mm case with 20mm hoods and the slightly used genuine AK has a 34mm case with 19mm hoods. The replica keeps time as close as the genuine model and the running reserve is about the same. Do not know what made the zit at 49 min, the bezel is fine. Posted the 14000M before, please excuse the ratty pics. Nos Daffy Diver from 1994. Daffy Duck was 'born' in the late 1930s. J3/Amc

Here is the post on my JMB '1016' project: JMB '1016' project update... - The Rolex Area - RWG J3/Amc

Stray Speedy left out on 6-15-22. July 20, 1969 = First Men on the Moon. Nos with ST19. Nos SMP... All are nos with A21 movements and very good cases/bracelets. The one on the right is a 40th anniversary model...

"There are no out of the box 1016 or any decent vintage Rolex. Your best bet is get a modder to build one or build one yourself." Good advice! After sticking a few together, here are a few things to look for if you decide to chase the parts down and put one together: 1...Decide on the movement first. Try to go with an ETA that has a beat rate close to a 1016. ETA 2846,2879 etc are 21600 and they are fine for these projects. Rlx imvts are18000 for older models and 19800 for later 15xx mvts. 2...Look for a thin case but one that has enough metal on the lugs to drill the spring bar holes out to 1.25/1.3mm without the holes being too close to an edge. 3...Make sure the case will accept the movement you decide on. Day-date ETAs are thicker and you can get in a mess with them in a case made for thinner ETA date movements . 4...Make sure the case will work with the dial you choose. Some cases are not oem spec for dial OD but most of the better aftmkt dials are oem spec. 5...A standard DJ bezel will not work with an oem spec 25-22 1016 crystal because the crystal sidewall is thicker. You need a 1016 spec bezel. Figure on a lot of details cropping up: Many newer cases have a 5.3mm case tube and a modern 6.0mm crown. Make sure you get a matched set, especially if you go with genuine part$. You will probably need a movement spacer. Figure on using case clamps and screws. No plastic spacers if you can help it. Etc, etc. Here is a super nice 1016 project: SOLD - 1972 Rolex 1016 Explorer - Watches - RWG Crown Info... - The Rolex Area - RWG I posted about putting an ETA 2824/2846 'combo' movement together a while back for my '1016' but did not save the link to it. I used a JMB case but needed a slower beat 2824 type movement. J3/Amc

You left out some important details: 1...Is the watch genuine or a replica? 2...Is it a true chronograph or a time/date setup with a chinaclone 2892? Some replicas are made this way. 3...If it is a replica, does it have an ETA 2892/94 for sure or an Asian or swiss 7750? Some have modified S/A 7750. Very few replicas used a swiss ETA 2894-2 with a DD chrono module. New 2894-2 will sell for $500 to $1000 now from supply houses depending on grade and their markup. To answer your question...yes, a genuine 2892/94 rotor should work on any standard genuine ETA 2892/94. If the movement is a replica, a genuine rotor might or might not work. I never tried it. Catch 22...You may need a special tool to r/r the rotor, maybe not. How does one remove the rotor on an ETA 2892? - Watch Repair & Upgrade - RWG Rotor Removal - Watch Repairs Help & Advice - Watch Repair Talk 1801 info: Genuine...Hublot Big Bang In-depth Review (timeandtidewatches.com) Replica...Review of 1:1 Replica Hublot Big Bang 301.CX.130.RX Stainless Steel Watch with Clone HUB4100 Movement – Join Best Replica Watches Club (ijoinwatches.com) J3/Amc

Strapless wristie... Strapless because it's summertime! All nos from about 10 years back... The two without bracelets are not chronographs, just time and date autos. The other four are Seagull ST19. Spare bracelets... All pics taken today.

No wristies today, only piccies. Why? Because it's easier. Like new Universal Geneve Polerouter with micro-rotor from late 60s/early 1970s ... Bought this UG 30 years ago new for $60 from a watch trader. Glycine single crown manual wind Compressor... Stainless 1950s/60s Longines manual wind with glass crystal... Stainless 33mm 1940s Longines military type with Hot! radium dial. Hands may have been changed. New cloth strap. J3/Amc

"For this watch case, i need a meters first mk2 or 3 red submariner dial and a good 1570 movement which is impossible to get cheap." After you get it finished and running with an ETA, be on the lookout for a rolex 1500 etc. watch with a 1575. Look for a rough case and dial with a good movement. The last rolex 1500 I bought was $700 on 12-14-21 and the case was pretty good, the dial had been refinished, but the movement was fine. It came from a jewelry store and a friend of the store owner got it for me. I gave him $100 on the deal so the watch was really $600 from the store. Since I do not know the store owner, he made the deal. Some of the best deals I have landed in watches came from pawn shops, jewelry stores, watch traders, car shows (!), and watch shows. Problem is the internet has made buying watches at a fair price like going back in time to the Bonnie and Clyde days wearing a suit made out of $100 bills. Good watch deals are hard to find now without getting robbed because everyone with a watch to sell is a Shake and Bake internet watch expert. An old time watch trader told me: "Do not wear a rolex when you are looking to buy a rolex." "Take a watch or two to trade but keep them out of sight at first." "Play dumb, but not too dumb." J3/Amc

"How is that J$W case compared to say a phong?" J$W = Jewelry & Watch = Phong. "I have A phong now and it’s not accepting my genuine 1570/75 movement." A genuine rolex 1565/75 GMT movement and oem spec dial will fit into my J&W case and I noticed where the case has been scratched inside where the casing screws are located. My guess is the previous owner was using a 'shortcut' GMT 15xx movement and this caused the movement not to fit as it was meant to. A genuine 1565/75 GMT movement has a slightly thicker calendar ring (spacer) making the movement a little bit thicker than a regular 15xx date movement. Sometimes case clamps with screws must be used in place of regular casing screws that mount inside the groove in the case. I have needed to do this in a few projects using rolex 15xx movements with aftmkt cases. Try your 15xx GMT movement with an oem spec dial in your case without casing screws and see if the dial goes all the way down inside the case and fits against the dial seat. If it goes into the case Ok, check where the casing screw heads would be and see if it looks like the screw heads will fit inside the groove or need to be above the groove and use case clamps. The GMT calendar ring is 1.0mm thick and a regular calendar ring is .9mm thick. The .1mm will make a difference if the case is machined exactly same as genuine. Look at the eleventh post on page 1 about case screws/clamps: Building an MBW Sub + 'shortcut' rlx 1560/70 GMT conversions... - The Rolex Area - RWG J3/Amc

Rules of thumb... An ETA 2824 will usually fit into a genuine rolex case made for a 3135 or a four digit case made for a 1520/30/60/70 no date movement. An ETA 2836/46 will usually fit into a genuine rolex four digit case made for a 1570/75 date movement. Rolex 15xx, 30xx, and 31xx movements are larger in diameter than ETA 28xx so a spacer is usually needed. No guarantees. Free advice... Do not waste a genuine 1680 case on a 'Frankenstein replica' project if it involves modifying the case at all. Save up for a genuine 15xx date movement and dial, even a ratty dial will do. Example... I have a genuine rolex 1570/75 date movement with an original 'Mk 1' Lemrich 1680 dial, but no case. Lemrich dials are very hard to find now and are going for $4000+. The movements are relatively easy to find and the cases are very hard to find so I am a looong way from a 1680. That's why I have an MBK '5512' with an ETA to wear now and then if I get the 'submariner itch'. Meanwhile the rlx 1570/75 and Lemrich dial are stored in a DW '1680' case to protect them. J3/Amc DW/Lemrich/1575...fifth post from the top: Rolex Wristies thread - Page 139 - The Rolex Area - RWG The MBK '5512' is post 19 on the same page. Here is an example of a 1680 with a 'Mk 1' Lemrich dial: SOLD - Rolex Submariner ref 1680 mk1 from 1977 | Omega Forums

Thanks! It's good to be missed.

"Are you sure that are gen the dial that have the space between indices and rehaut?" There is no way to know for certain if some the dials with the space between the outer markers and edge of the case are genuine. With replica/refinished dials being so good now, I guess it will remain a mystery. I am not an expert of any sort, especially on dials but I can't help wondering about this 'major' differences in supposedly genuine vintage dials. I understand there are always 'minor' differences but the space between the outer markers and case edge seems like a 'major' difference. I guess part of the mystery is why the 'experts' ever mention it. The Vn dial on your watch above is very good and the space between the markers and case edge are because of the dial/movement being mounted to one side a tiny bit and I see this quite often on genuine and replica examples. Here is where I looked at the genuine 1655 dials: images of rolex explorer 1655 - Bing images The images change over time but there is usually one with space between the markers and case edge (all the way around the dial) claimed to be genuine. I looked at 50 or 60 tonight and did not see any with the space . Next month there might be one. "The most evident gap that I remember was visible on the old cartel 1655." I still have a couple from 2005 or so and they both came in cases marked '1680' with new (at the time) swiss ETA 2836 with non-adjustable Asian 24H mod. Here is a pic of one, still 'nos'... Flatten the CG tips, scuff it up a bit, and it might 'wow the troops' at the Waffle House...after 2am.

Dan71: "Not sure I understand the question." amc: "My question is...has anyone else noticed genuine 1655 watches with the markers spaced away from the reflector like mine and the two genuine examples?" The dial on my 'shortcut 1655' has the outer row of markers spaced away from the edge of the case where the vast majority of genuine and replica 1655 have the outer row of markers right up against the edge of the case. I always figured watches with the outer markers spaced away from the edge of the dial were replicas, re-dials, or some sort of 'service' dial. Maybe not since I searched for a long time and finally found a few genuine examples with the outer markers spaced away from the dial, but there is no way to determine if the dial is original to the watch. It is not important at all but like I said...I always figured markers spaced away from the case edge were not 100% original to a watch. Looks like the answer is...maybe, maybe not. J3/amc Who, Who, Who am I? - General Discussion - RWG

I am 'automatico' but I was 'jimmythree' on RWG to start with, I joined up just after TRC went south. Say what? Waaay back...a server glitch wiped 'jimmythree' out (or so I thought) and I re-registered as 'automatico'. A couple weeks ago I lost my 'automatico' PW during a trash cleanout and the email account it is registered to has gone south for the fourth or fifth time (for me anyway) and I gave up on it. Then I got a note from the admn a couple weeks ago addressed to 'jimmythree' so I applied for a new PW for 'jimmythree' using my current email address. Bam! I'm 'jimmythree' again! Since 5-16-07. j3/amc

Tell you what freddy333....Adios! You can have it. Follow someone else around with your barbs.

quote = ...I am not going to drop $1k on a fake watch much less A dial or A movement. /quote I agree 100% because a replica watch is basically worthless except for a novelty or a basic time keeper. They will never reach mainstream collector status like genuine watches because of what they are...I better take the 'worthless' part back though because Swiss Eta movements are beginning to be worth a few bucks. (I could be totally wrong of course because a few years from now, who knows what will be a collector item?) The only replicas I am familiar with that might be termed 'collectible' are the manual wind Daytonas with Poljot 3133 (Valjoux 7733 clone) movements. I have seen them called 'DW' Daytonas on forums and they look a lot like genuine watches with 19mm lugs, smaller cases etc...not like later models with Venus 175 clones in them. There may be correct size Venus clone watches around but I have not seen one. I do not waste first class genuine parts on replicas...I use new generic case tubes, used genuine crowns, new generic crystals, used dials (non collectible), bezels etc. On my DJ projects, I install used gold bezels, crowns etc, generic sapphire oem spec crystals, generic Eta/tudor hands, and gaskets. My last one has a genuine 18k fluted bezel that someone polished a flat spot in. I turned it down and made a smooth bezel out of it. I use mostly replica dials but have a qs DJ dial with one dial foot broken off and may use it in the next one. I made up a few OPD with genuine cases and dials because there used to be a lot of cases, bracelets, and dials around from genuine watches scrapped out to use the movements in replica gold cases...OPD watches were cheaper than DJs and had the same movement. Something else...no way I would try to pass a replica off as genuine to anyone. I always tell them what it is and have had more people ask to look at replicas than genuine watches after I tell them. Most people really get a kick out of them...also had a few rolexsnobs blow a fuse. No sense of humor.

Some replica DJ cases will accept genuine crystals and bezels but most will not. I have a few replica DJ cases with oem spec sapphire crystals and genuine or aftmkt gold or steel bezels fitted on them but like I said...most will not work. Measure the case neck...if it is 29.5mm, genuine parts will work. Btw...the cases I have that work with genuine parts are the infamous 'monarch polfy/gelena shitinerand' cases, some with reference and serial numbers, some without. Some cases have a groove cut in them for case clamps and some do not. You can cut case clamp slots in a case using a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. I use a battery powered Dremel tool to start the grooves and finish with a house current tool. Put the dial and movement in the case, line it up with 3 at the case tube, and mark the case where you want the grooves cut (one on each side). If you miss the spot a little bit you may have to file slots in the movement spacer so the clamps will reach the slots. If you have a lathe with a 3 jaw or 4 jaw chuck...you can clamp the case in the lathe and cut a case clamp groove in the case using a Dremel tool or a tool bit. I use a Dremel because I never took the time to make a tool bit for the job. 'WW' type (watchmaker) lathes with a bezel chuck will also work. tip: You can press an old bezel upside down on the watch (using an acrylic crystal) for a solid mount when cutting case clamp grooves. I use an old bezel with a slight taper cut inside it so it will start easily upside down. (acrylic and sapphire case necks are about the same size so an acrylic 135 crystal will work on a sapphire case) You can also use an acrylic crystal without a bezel and rely on the clamping force of the lathe jaws to hold the crystal on the case. Put a thick rag on the lathe bed to protect the case if it falls off. Always run the case on low speed. note: Some cases will have a step with a slightly larger od on the crystal neck down next to the case but just above the step it is 29.5mm. Be careful not to press the crystal gasket down over the step because the bezel will be too tight and sometimes ruin the gasket. What's worse is if the crystal gasket slips down over the step on one side and the bezel gets crooked and chips the crystal when you press it down. Be careful pressing the bezel down over the gasket.

Quote = "But I am definitely scratching my head over your (negative) comments about the DJ. My 1st gen Rolex was a 16013 (I still own a 16014) & it ran, flawlessly, for many years until I lost it. And that was without any servicing, which was a mistake on my part. I also had a relative who was a professional Rolex-trained watchmaker & I remember him telling me that Rolex watches were the 'best made' watch in the world. And although I am an amateur, at best, that has been my experience as well. The 3035 is probably 1 of the weakest links in Rolex's movement chain, but I have never had any problems with either of mine." /quote I went back and looked at my records...I have owned 26 watches with the 3035 and had trouble with 6 of them (in about 25 years, but I did not wear all of them)...everything from broken rotor axles and jewels to date problems. A couple had problems when I got them but most went DOA while I wore them. (6 out of 26...I always heard the number 6 was bad luck) I sold the last 7 tutone 3035 powered watches to one guy 6-7-01 (7 = good luck!) promising myself I would never own another 3035 but in a weak moment bought another one early this year just because it was cheap...and the guy owed me some $$. note: I admit to being hard on watches, I did not take it easy on one just because it was a rolex...but I have slowed down a bit since then. A friend lost an explorer II in a lake a few years ago and another lost a submariner while deep sea fishing and we still wonder where they are and what condition they are in. We figured the springbars let go. I knocked a sappire crystal, bezel, gasket and all off a modern DJ once but in the watch's defense, the crystal gasket was fried from the sun. Also knocked a crown clean off a watch including the stem and breaking the case tube. (no crown guards) Had a DJ come in a few months ago with the same problem and the guy did not know how or when it happened. He works on antique cars. Oh yeah, the crystal, bezel, and gasket fiasco...a few years ago I was riding on the back of a motorcycle when a cop got after us and we rode through a doorway at a motorcycle shop trying to hide. I had a bucket of fried chicken tucked under my left arm and when we bounced off the door frame, I stuck my hand out and smacked the watch pretty hard (and dropped the chicken). The cop was asleep in a car wash next to the chicken joint and we did a looong wheelie past the car wash and woke him up. (beat up old Kawasaki ZX11 with headers etc) He said he took off after us because we "made him look bad". I guess sleeping on duty was OK. The cop was laughing so hard there were tears in his eyes when he walked in the door. We were not laughing. We lost $10 worth of fried chicken. I found the crystal, bezel, and gasket still in one piece on the floor. I have owned as many or more watches with 1530 base movements (starting in the early 1970s) and had very little trouble other than the usual caused by neglect, wear, or botched repair jobs. Many 1530/60/70/75 etc movements are getting very ratty now because of rough handling during service, being left in the cleaning fluid too long (plating ruined) etc, etc. Some are just getting old...the 1530 came out in 1957. I have owned about 20 watches with the 3135 and only had trouble with one (besides the crystal), but I never wore a 3135 powered watch for longer than a few weeks before getting rid of it. I have a 3135 in a 16233 but have never worn the watch....if I ever do, the first thing I will do is change the crystal gasket.

quote = Overall, I think the ETA-powered reps are pretty reliable these days. Especially, if you get them serviced regularly, which is a prerequisite for any mechanical movement. Gone are the bad old days when even the best reps were powered by cheap, unreliable Asian 'mystery' movements (these bear no direct relation to the 'Mystery' DW movements) that were considered great if they kept reasonable time for 6 months before they ticked their last tock. /quote I agree with you about Eta powered watches. If you get a fresh, clean Eta movement, it will usually run without trouble for at least 5 years. Asian 'mystery movements' usually last from 2 minutes to a year or two. There are exceptions of course...like the guy I know who wore a submariner look-alike with a DG/CH 2813 for 5 years before it blew up. (the ball bearings on the winding rotor wore out and fell out of the race) ...and the Sea-Gull ST19 chronograph movement that seems to be one of the best cheapo Asian movements made. As for genuine watches... I have a 16013 DJ that I wore for a while but parked it after I made up a replica Swiss Eta 2836 DJ with 18K bezel, oem type sapphire crystal/gasket, genuine crown etc because I simply do not trust a genuine Rolex to run without breaking. (I am speaking from experience, not blowing smoke) Back when I wore a Rolex all the time, it took three... 1...one to wear 2...one spare for when the one I was wearng blew up 3...one waiting on parts Kinda like a Harley D motorcycle. Many of the current rolexophiles who brag about how 'tough' their Rolex watches are must be new to the mechanical watch game...or keep them on a watch winder. Anyone besides me ever wonder why Rolex has the biggest watch parts and repair business in the universe? Maybe it's because they break a lot. The 16013 has already had a new mainspring, balance staff, cleaning job, crown, case tube, crystal, and gaskets since I had it (four months, and it had a 2004 service date written inside the caseback)...what's next? Besides all this, the hairspring is laser welded to the collet on the 3035 and they are famous for coming loose...the fix is a new $400 balance assembly. I have little faith in the real world ruggedness and reliability of genuine Rolex watches so for a few hundred bucks, I can get the same look without all the $$ headaches and hassles.

"The old timers have had their fill, being lucky enough to buy during the so called golden age" You got that right. I started with genuine watches waaay back and found replicas when they wound up with me for repair because no one else would work on them. They might not have been as close in appearance to genuine a few short years ago as they are now but "QC" (what there was of it) was a lot better then and less delivery hassles. I am through with them now except to use for parts. Fully signed Eta clones were the last straw. I also refuse to work on DOA China made Miyota clone movements. I flatten them with a hammer. As for genuine... They might be a bit more reliable but they cost too much and most swiss watch companies will not sell parts...if they do, they are too expensive anyway. Genuine "luxury watches" are a lost cause imho, just another way to screw you out of your $$. Something else...I bet sales of genuine "luxury" watches are down in the USA because of gasoline/diesel fuel and food prices getting jacked up daily...$3.55 for regular gasoline around here, up from $3.35 a week ago. Probably $4.00 by late June. Dodge "Hemi" pickup trucks etc parked in front yards all over town with "For Sale" signs...some with "Make Offer" signs. ...while worn out 1980s four cylinder Toyota pickup trucks are priced over $4000...up from $1500 a couple years ago. I saw a nice sapphire crystal rolex air king at a pawn shop a few weeks ago priced at $1200. I read the price code...they paid $400 for it. I guess the guy needed a tank of high test. note: Around here, most of the pawn shops use HONEST BUCK for the code with numbers in place of the letters in different order from shop to shop.

quote = It just so happens that today I received my newest Rolex replica... Although this IS NOT a clone of a 3135 or any other Rolex in house movement, its the most interestingly decorated 2836-2 that I have ever had... For some reason the pic shows a slight gold color, its not gold at all. /quote That movement is exactly like the eta clone I had that the rotor fell off of. I am sure eta made movements with similar decoration. For example: http://www.mywatchmaker.net/tgpilot.htm But mine was a clone, no doubt about it. Assuming your movement is Swiss made, the rolex style rotor was made in Chna or somewhere and put on the movement. Since there are at least two companies in China making eta 2824/2836 clones (Sea-Gull and Hangzhou), maybe the clone made by Hangzhou has parts that will interchange with eta...maybe The Zigmeister had a Hangzhou, not a Sea-Gull and parts were interchangable with eta. This Sea-Gull eta clone review says that a lot of parts will not interchange: http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f...p;sk=t&sd=a ...and to make things more interesting, here is a 26 jewel eta clone: http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=44383 I would really like to know more about the clones, maybe someone can find out. As for making a rolex 3135 clone...I doubt it would be very hard and they could use a flat hairspring (in place of a Breguet hs) and still look like a 3135. The rolex 3000 was just a 3035 with a flat hairspring and no date and they looked alike.

Another eta clone... http://hangzhouwatch.com/product_view.asp?id=56