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Rolexman

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Posts posted by Rolexman

  1. So basically what you are saying about the A7750 is:

    blueprint is good (since it is copied from the ETA), execution is crap.

    How does that make the A7750 a good movement?

    And how is it not possible to provide a clean A7750 movement, made and assembled in CHINA for 300 USD? 300 USD in China is comparable to how much in any western country? Probably around or more than 900 USD? Aren't there "real" companies selling clean ETA7750 watches for that price? And they have a lot more expenses than rep factories have..

    How would 8 hours of additional work increase the price dramatically? Average factoryworkers are paid what, less than a dollar an hour? Instead you search for someone who is willing to service an A7750 and pay him 200 USD...

    IMO $300 dollar is the 'consumer price'. That includes dealer mark ups, middle men, maybe pay offs (?) etc. If you look at the cost price of set watch it is much lower. The movement only being a small fraction of the total. So maybe $30 for a7750 whole sale in china?

    And if you knew how a Swiss watch is assembled like for instance at Breitling and how our reps are assembled in dark sweat rooms you will realize that that the price of a clean and well performing movement is not only made up by labor costs. Environment, tools, schooling etc. are all equally important and contributing.

    If you can get a complete new ETA 7750 powered watch for $300 please let me know where. I will buy a dozen! You can hardly get only the movement for that price ;)

    • Like 1
  2. The rep Portu has a polished case back whereas the genuine is brushed. A tell that can be easily altered....

    A lot of you probably figured this out yourself but it is so easy and the result's are so good I want to share it with you guys.

    You need 3 things:

    - Jeweler screw driver

    - Painting masking tape

    - Scotch Brite pad (or similar)

    Step 1

    Remove your case back by removing the tiny screws with a jewelers screw driver.

    Step 2

    Mask the area of the case back that does not need to be brushed like the picture

    post-682-0-79509400-1336079505.jpg

    Step 3

    Brush the case back in 1 direction with the green surface of the Scotch Brite pad.

    post-682-0-99294300-1336079520.jpg

    Step 4

    Remove the tape and wash the case back with water and soap

    Step 5

    Enjoy!

    post-682-0-68690200-1336079517.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. ~~~~~Please know that everything in this thread is my opinion and I don't want to present them as facts!~~~~~~~~

    Well, as an old timer on this board I've seen the entire life cycle of the Asian 7750. From the early replicas with the old 21.600bph jewels version which were poorly finished up to the latest 28.800bph version and all the alterations the Chinese could make up.

    One thing that clearly stands out when it comes to the Asian 7750 is that there are lovers and haters. The later are in the surplus! Especially the Asian 7750 with the running seconds at 6 gets a lot of negative attention. Not entirely without reason as the Chinese altered a perfectly designed movement (Valjoux 7750) to transfer the running seconds. They could have done that without compromising on the performance but they cut some corners and what you get is a relative unreliable movement when not taken care off properly. There are some modifications that can be done to it but I won't go in to that now.

    What I do want to share is what a great movement the Asian 7750 is. Yes, it is great! In it's original configuration (12-9-6) it is at it's best as all the parts and functions work like they should. It is the basic configuration with the least chance of problems occurring.

    So why is the Asian 7750 so notorious? Well theoratically it's not the movement itself but the condition under which it is assembled that causes most of the problems. 99% of all Asian 7750 movements are either dirty, dry, over oiled or a combination thereof. Ad poor quality checks /craftsman ship and you can ad loose screws, uneven hair spring coils, loose pallet stones and a lot of other stuff to the balance.

    But what can you expect from a 300$ watch? In order to give us these beautiful reps for such low prices they have to cut expenses somewhere. If they would ad 8 hours of proper assembling and QC's the price would dramatically increase. And let's be honest. Most people don't care if their movement is clean and on par with the genuine.They are more concerned with the aesthetics. And for the few RWG nerds that are? There is The Zigmeister of every other watch maker.

    So my point is: The Asian 7750 is in it's basic configuration a great movement and on par with the ETA 7750 if assembled and checked correctly. That does mean that sometimes parts needs to be cleaned, oiled or even replaced. But after that... just perfect.

    Some nice pictures to conclude!

    :peace: Mark

    Here's a random picture of an Asian 7750 as can be found in almost all reps. Dirty and shabby...

    post-682-0-08983700-1336077278.jpg

    Here's an Asian 7750 after a full clean and oiling with the screws replaced by silver ones.

    post-682-0-31504000-1336077312.jpg

    Compare it to a factory delivered Chronometer ETA 7750

    post-682-0-38025500-1336077387.jpg

    Side by side...

    post-682-0-28589200-1336077417.jpg

    post-682-0-74102000-1336077430.jpg

    Performance of the Asian 7750

    post-682-0-77522100-1336077573.jpg

    Performance of the Chronometer ETA 7750

    post-682-0-88616800-1336077627.jpg

    • Like 5
  4. Don't want to sound like an @ss but I really don't care. It mostly are those brands that nobody really cares about. The worth of these watches is made up by the amount of gold used and the movement (brand value=zero). I would do the same as most of the time these watches are hard to sell and assembled seldomly generate the amount they are truely worth. Ergo the best choice is to rip it apart and sell the guts because people just don't appreciate these watches/ brands. Sort of like some Frankens...

    That's nature's cycle ;)

  5. Just saw this Dior at Angus' website and although it is not my taste it sure looks genuine. Is this like the recent released Hamilton Basjump? Looks like they are using genuine parts to some extend.

    I couldn't spot a single flaw ( I have to say I didn't try that hard because I don't like watch anyway)

    I merely want talk about the way things seem to change in the rep industries. Either the standards are getting way on par with the genuine or.....Swiss brands aren't as "Swiss" as they claim to be.

    http://www.puretimewatch.com/product/dior-2012-04-16/

  6. Just received new pic with timegraph result.

    Please take a look again as I feel that those results are even worse.

    rate: -016 s/d

    amplitude: 267°

    beat error: 1,0 ms

    Shall I accept watch in this condition?

    R.

    What some crown turns can do huh :lol:

    No seriously. If it was a 'normal' rep + or -15 sec/day is fine. As this one is supposed to be 'serviced' the rate is not acceptable. The amp is on the low side but I have had some A7750's that had a same amp after a full service. So if you believe the watch had a service this could be possible (rare but possible). The rate is the only thing that needs to be adjusted. But in all honousty.... I don't believe this watch had a service and the watchmaker did not regulate it correctly. You probably paid premium bucks for a 'normal' non-serviced rep. Just my 0.02.

  7. great...was hoping it might be easy to work the jewels - easier than finding Asian parts...

    Is there a side I should push the newly from?...dial side to back or vice-versa?

    as always...thx!

    Dial side or back side depends on the bridge you are working on. You always push a jewel out from the cup side of the jewel and you push it in from the flat side. If you look at the jewel from both sides you know what I mean ;)

    Good luck and let us know how it went.

    Mark

  8. Pop the jewel out with a plastic pen tip. You can push it right out. Getting one back in is a greater challenge as it needs to be seated straight. I've done it before. Before I bought a staking set so you can do it too! Just lay the bridge down flat. Position the jewel and push it in with a straight plastic tip. Push from the underside (flat side). Just do it gently, like making love to a woman :lol:

    You got nothing to loose my friend ;)

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