Rolexman

Nope same 'ol same 'ol.

Only the bezel improved. Instead of a 2 piece (which was hardly noticeable) bezel and inlay, it's now a single engraved piece.

Strange. I wonder if your metal is contaminated with something containing silicone? I have not experienced any problems at this end & JlC has been using powdered graphite as a 'lifetime' lubricant in their high end watches without any problems that I am aware of (JlC is where I got the idea from).

I use a nano polish as last step. It smoothens out the surface on molecular level.

Here is a good example of my details above...

This is a LWO 283 Chrono module, for a movement used in the Genuine AP with Running Seconds at 12.

In this module, the transfer of seconds from the middle of the movement to the 12 position is only via 3 gears, 1 gear on the end of the seconds post on the ETA 2892A2, a flat transfer gear (not unlike the one in the center of the A7750) and a pivoted gear for the hand to attach to.

Please note the following points, look at the jewelling and the efforts to reduce friction, and this for only 2 moveable gears (as compared to 4 moveable gears on the A7750), also look at the design of the transfer gear, it's completely jewelled and also held in position by a small arm and the center is also jewelled, so the gear doesn't move around when the watch is moved (unlike the A7750 where the center gear is loose between the plates).

This is a correct design, if it takes this much work for only 2 gears, how much would we need for the 4 gears on the A7750.

Comments?

Great info. Thanks for sharing. Funny to read the graphite didn't work after a mirror polish. Same here.

Many years ago I would not hesitate to step in, but times have changed and I don't have the time to spend defending my comments or putting up with PM after PM blasting me for saying anything...

Still recovering from my comment on the poor lume application...

That's just sad Rob. In real life you don't let people shut you up right? I say speak your mind! Always. Let people say or think what they want. If you can effect or help just one person with your post that should be enough. Enjoy those moments and forget the rest. All the vets know who you are and appreciate the input and knowledge you bring to the forum. F#ck the ignorant members.

Ps: That lume job wás p!ss poor

Maybe a 28.800 chrono second wheel was used as replacement part? A left over or hybrid?

Wow. Thanks!

They look like sh!t.

Sorry mate. Your better of with the wm pearl. And you get an insert along with it for the same price

yes it will fit, i have done it

same as a 2893 will replace a 2836

Thanks. Good to know.

a 2824 should fit but you would have to do away with the anti mag cover,

Are you sure? It will compensate the thickness but is the stem alignment the same?

IMO it's a nice learning experience but don't get your hopes up. It's very likely you will:

a. lose more money

b. lose your mind

c. all of the above

Your guess is as good as mine. I hope soon.

here is an example that is "not so perfect" : http://www.rwg.cc/to...__fromsearch__1

This is yet an example of how skilled he is. The 12~15 diving ring part is completely doted with lume. Dot by dot. He did a write up about this method one time and that's craftsmanship to the extreme. Look how perfect those numbers still look.


Anyway I do agree that some people need to stop with the macro's and 10x loups. These are reps and aftermarket modding will never look on par with a genuine. In this case the only thing that is worth mentioning is the lume application of the 12 hour marker IMHO.

Shoot me a pm

Thanks for this very interessing report. It's always fascinating to see how it is built.

It's also interesting to see the process in a luxury brand, with many automated operations, and to compare it with a more "manual" process. I've been in China, and had the opportunity to visit watch case factories. I'm sure you'll have fun comparing my pictures with the film shown above.

Do you remember in the film the first step with the case ? That's what they call "case blank". Here are the operations that follows, and which were made by a robot in the film :

And the final polishing :

Maybe you'll think that in such a factory they are just doing rubish. If you think so, you're wrong ! These guys are not working in a high tech workshop, but they are great professionals. And you'd be suprised by the quality of finishing they are able to provide. Specially with polishing, which is the last operation and the most difficult one. I takes years to train a very good polisher. And if he makes a mistake, the case cannot be fixed and goes to the dustbin (which means that all previous operations - and the associated production cost - are lost).

Case of your favourite rep comes probably from a factory which looks like this one.

Hope you'll find it interesting.

Paul

Thanks for sharing Paul. Those are the real craftsman! There aren't even any watchmakers at Panerai as all the difficult stuff like oiling and hand setting is done by a machine. What a joke!

Now that would be a revelation! Who did you hear that from?

I wonder how many versions it'll take to get right.....

There is a thread over in Angus' section @ Repgeek.

Sweet project. I heard the ultimate Navi will be out in a couple of months though...

Make a picture of the movement and post it here so we can point you in the right direction. My guess is you forgot the clamps holding the movement and holder together.

Also experienced some poor communication several times. Always in the watch exploration fase. Maybe some selective answering? In the end I always end up with the twins. If communication isn't up to par before you buy?...Take it as a sign!

My. 0.02.

It's not crap and the quality is good. Its just not very accurate. At least to those who know what to look for. You were given the advice to wait for an updated model (which is now available at PureTime) but you went ahead any way. All dealers use terms like "ultimate" etc. but that does not necceseraly mean it is the most accurate. You can either enjoy it as it is or sell it.

Good deal. All gone now.

$10 dollar fix by your local watchmaker. Don't sweat it.

I believe they pulled the watch from their site.....

Too bad the auto winding bridge isn't engraved. One US clean and the printing will be probably gone

Thanks, very good to know that!

BTW I twas thinking to ask some time ago regarding watches with screw in crown - since you will be winding the watch as you screw the crown...usually manual wind for 7750 or any self winding mechanical movement is not recommended .... are all reps with screw in crowns less reliable, no matter what movement inside?? You not suppose to wind it manually but you will wind it manually when you screw in crown anyway . Even with 6497 movement it is difficult to screw crown in if fully winded, not even difficult-sometimes impossible...movement is already fully winded but you have to wind it slightly more when you screw crown in.

Read further than just the first post

Also most of our reps (if not all) that have a screw down crown have a clutch mechanism in the crown which prevents the movement form being hand wound when you screw down the crown.

So if you push the crown down you disengage it from the stem which will lead to only screwing down the crown and leaving the stem unmoved. Ergo not winding the movement because the stem that engages the keyless works doesn´t move.

But if you do feel the movement hand winding while screwing down the crown that means a. the clutch inside the crown is broken or b. the stem is too short.

I disagree. The sellita is designed like the ETA. The main spring's bridle is designed in such a way that it can't be over wound. Also most of our reps (if not all) that have a screw down crown have a clutch mechanism in the crown which prevents the movement form being hand wound when you screw down the crown.

So the ratchet can't break? Sure it can! IMO only two things can cause it.

1. Metal fatigue, read: poor production/ quality. Judging from all the complaints this most likely is the case.

2. Broken or malfunctioning main spring bridle due to rust or lack of proper grease.