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Rolexman

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Posts posted by Rolexman

  1. Do you mean that the case is different?

    This is the El Cheapo: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=11568

    This my version: http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=11573

    The cases to me looks the same (also the TT reference are from the same batch: ROLGMT097B is the cheapo, ROLGMT097C is the ETA), don't you think, Rolexman? I'm also worried about taking the case out: will I need to take out the bezel and the glass, or it will come out from the back?

    Tnx!

    Dimensions could be different. Or at least some spacers like movement spacer and dial spacer. Maybe even stem hight. You will need some basic watch skils or find a watchmaker.

    Mark.

  2. Hi Ezio (actually, do you know that Ezio is a typical Italian "old style" name?)

    what I can say about the A7750 (got info reading and reading) it's:

    • Running seconds subdial should by @9 (like in the Panerai, in the TAG, NOT like in the IWC Portuguese or in the Rolex Daytona) and not in other places (the other subdials aren't that important)
    • Avoid, if possible, to hand-wind them. If it's not possible, do it SLOWLY and just until it start runs by itself, then wear it and let the automatic winding to do the rest of the job
    • Never set the date or the day between 21 and 3 (9pm - 3am), if you've to set the date and you're in that interval, change the time to 5pm or 4am, change the day-date, then put it to the correct time. But avoid to set the time counterclockwise
    • If you run the chrono, then reset it by 1st pressing the stop button and then the reset button (never use the reset while it's still running). Reset the chrono when the chrono seconds hand is between 10 and 2, to avoid the risk of misalignment.
    That's all :)
    Good info Gentle but I have to correct point

    3: true for ETA 7750 but not for A7750 (the Chinese actually made a design improvement on the Swiss version). So you can set the date whenever you want.

    4: Not true. When the chrono is running the reset lever is disengaged so you can push on it as much as you like. It will have 0 effect. As soon as you stop the movement the reset lever will be engaged and functions like it should. You are right on the chrono second hand position when resetting to avoid slippage.

    • Like 1
  3. Some watches have the option to get a clone. Usually referred to as A (Asian)2836 or A2824. This depends on the factory. The dealer website will show you the options. The SMPC300 does not have this option and only comes with an 100% used ETA. On mine I had to replace the entire barrel and mainspring because it was completely worn down... It is a role of the dice.

  4. First I removed the hour markers. Grinded them down and beveled the edge a bit. Than relumed. Also reworked the date cut outs.

    Currently the movement is torn down and serviced. All screws replaced by silver ones. Auto wind bridge with the circular pattern striping installed and IWC rotor with swiss baring to top it of. Al that is needed is a gen strap to compete this project.

    Still thinking about bevelling the crown on the case side to get a more gen like appearance.

    • Like 1
  5. I think it's rep. Gen IWC dials don't have such thick/embossed and rounded indices, they have complete flat indices. And the colour of the lumed indices doesn't differ from the colour of the other indices. Possibly it' gen but then (I think) it's relumed. Also the indices in the subdial shot are too grainy in my opinion.

    I used a gen for reference and when you look at 10x macro the lume is also ever so slightly domed on a genuine.

  6. Sorry to read about your bad luck. But you clearly don't know about what is and isn't true to gen. The BP bezel assembly is 100% the same. Only problem is most people (even watchmakers) don't know how the different parts interact and therefor have no clue how to assemble it. Popping the bezel off is 1 thing....

  7. Don't agree with you on that mate. The small US cleaners are pretty good. If they work at 44khz there is no difference with a big expensive one when it comes to cleaning power. Off course no heating, the cycles are shorter and less personalisation options but the US power is on par. It's the solution you use in the cleaners and the way you position parts that makes the difference. For a few bucks these cheap US cleaners are great entry tools for watch cleaning.

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