Rolexman

I'm on iPhone so I will make it short. You are very well informed Bones and you are a100% correct. Yes, the escapement is well designed and it does reduce friction BUT.... All the co axials I have seen (you can also google it) have the train gear jewels oiled + all your regular wear spots like the keyless. Fact is that no oil or grease lasts 10 years......

What's the #1 selling point of a co-axial? Who?

Well I handled this dial and It remarkably had all the right markings on the back....

The answer is no. And those that claim it is marketing [censored] should take the time to actually learn what it is, what it does and how it's basically the only advance on the traditional escapement in over a hundred years. Do yourself a favour and read George Daniels autobiography. An incredible man and a genius. Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

How often have you disassembled a co-axial?.....Me 6 so far and when I say it is marketing bullsh!t I CAN say that. Why? Besides the fact I am a watchmaker in the evening for this board and 2 local jewellers I have a daytime job as marketing manager for a huge multinational. So in this case I know all the insides of the movement, the design, it's flaws and the marketing gimmick that is behind it.

Nope. Co-axial is marketing bullsh!t anyway. Don't fall for it.

Sending a watch back to China is always your last resort. You are dealing with an unreliable postal system and dealers that are Chinese natives with American names who get hundreds of emails a day. That is just asking for trouble. Especially when it is a silly little thing as a rotor decoration. Just my 0.002.

Nothing to do with gears meshing. Your have a faulty reversing wheel. Easy and cheap fix for someone that knows what he is doing.

Did they forget to cross the T ?.....

Don't you f#cking apologize Tony! All of you have every reason to be angry. Emotions make you do some crazy things sometimes. This is a ridiculous situation.

Congrats!

Double post

Adjustable.

Hi guys,

 

Excuse me if my question sound a bit noobish,

 

Does the ETA date disc of a 7750 is the same (size,and fitting) as the 7753 ?

 

I'm asking this becuase i'm looking for a date disc for ETA7753 and can see only for 7750 movments.

 

Thanks,

Dvir

Nope. The A7753 is even different from the ETA 7753. So forget spares.

Would those possible causes be the same on a jumpy 7753 instead of a 7750?

Exact same set up. So yes.

Had this problem on my Montblanc Timewalker Chrono and sent it off for servicing hoping that would take care of it.

The report I got back from the watchmaker is that the choppiness only got slightly better after servicing.

I know he tried changing out the center wheel/center chrono gear and he said he got some better results from doing that...

Unfortunately in doing so, something else broke and I haven't seen my watch since. If I do see it again I'll tell u if the improvement was significant.

Sorry to hear that. In my experience 9 out of 10 'choppyness' it is caused by #3. Unexperienced watch makers usually only try to swap #1 and #2...

Only 3 possible things.

1. Bad/ dirty teeth on the chronograph second wheel

2. Bad / dirty teeth on the tilting pinion

3. Chronograph second wheel spring has too little upward tension.

PS: very common problem and causes no harm what so ever. Just aesthetically not very appealing. It does not affect time keeping.

Really?! I can't imagine a tiny screw and tab eating too much of their profits!

I actually think they're too expensive as it is! I often go to Jakarta as I have family there and I've always bought my reps in person from the shops there. And I've never paid more than £20 for a cheaper one or £40 but a high end version. Yet they charge us hundreds of £ / $ for a mail order service!

Ok.. It's faster

They mostly only mount 2 screws and 2 tabs. It's cheaper...

There is no way of knowing for sure without tearing it apart. But from my experience the AP OS with sec @12 are the worst to use daily. Besides the usual bad oiling and dirt of the A7750 they have design issues due to the seconds transfer from 9 to 12. Extra wear could lead to an early dead without propped care. So it all depend on how much money you want to invest and if you really care if it breaks down.

Read this:

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/134432-qa-why-do-our-a7750s-need-a-service/?hl=+need%20+service

And this

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/143915-faq-to-service-or-not-to-service-my-thoughts/?hl=%2Bservice#entry1158012

For a daily beater my advice would also be the Diver.

Yes, I still want one very much, but Trevor put this doubt in the back of my mind.

i dunno, maybe the problem is with the dirty re-cycled ETA movement?

Anyway, I may go for this SMP but from a dealer with excellent after sales support.

Don't let it scare you of. Usually there are other interests involved.

QC on the ceramic SMP is on one of the best I have seen..... I also own one myself and it is perfect.

So really strange.

How do you solve it? Just bending the sides of the clasp a little bit, so that the lock stays in place? That is how I always solved it on at least 5 deep sea models, which all had that problem.

That could be a solution but that is not the way it should lock

That's all. Received one (received from a TD only this week) on my bench today and it is utter crap. The lock does not stay in place.

Just a heads up.

Im not sure if Paneristi is into reps?

Did not know it was purely rep based. Thought it was a gen database of some kind to find your favourite pam model.. E.g. Gold, second at 9, etc. Keep it mainstream and you can commercialise it later on if you want. That would be my advice to you. The rep community (although I love it) is just too small.