Rolexman

My Sea Dweller Deepsea is 18 months old now and has a great ceramic insert. I do not treat this watch like a museum display .. it is a daily wear watch.

But does the insert have scratches?

Just spray some WD40 on the movement ... that always does the trick

I'm flabbergasted that you left out "C. I need a vacation"

Believe it or not but I'm the middle of my fall-vacation

Hmmm.. My bad. Am I that lost? I thought I tracked most of the posts regarding the 7753 but apparently I missed the most important one... duh. I edited OP as I do not want to lose face .

Just see my post as a bump .

The Zigmeister did a full tear down of this much talked about new movement.

Ready for the link? Here it is!

Ok, great feedback.

On no 3, that should not be happening, also have a good look with 10X loup at balance pivots for damage etc.

Let me know how the rest of it goes...

Well Rob,

I think I overlooked #7. It was touching one of the studs all the time. After adjusting the stud so that the hair spring touches and then floats free the beat error improved. One thing I find peculiar is that the rate drops when shifting from dial up to crown down. Normally it gains speed.... also I find the amplitude on the low side for a freshly serviced 2892.

Some ratings:

Dial up

+7 s/d

167 o

0.0 ms

Crown down

-3 s/d

166 o

0.2 ms

there is no clone of the 2892, I'd say you're golden.

Yes there is (Sea-gull ST18). But this one is gen

Nice buy and wear it well!

Look if the bridge of the pallet fork is screwed down tight. Be carefull not to break the pivots of the pallet fork, so make sure it is correctly seated in the upper and lower jewel.

Mark.

Not sure what you have done so far, so this is what I would do based on your comments.

1. Remove the rotor

2. Check the timing again and note how it reacts

3. Test it Dial Up, Dial Dn, and Crown Down, what are the readings over say 30 seconds time

4. Make sure the gain on the vibrograph is fully maxed out or as high as possible without it skipping, you want the mic to pick up the pallet giving the impulse to the impulse jewel, not the escape locking on the pallet stone

5. Demagnitise the watch, but the hairspring is non-magnetic so it shouldn't really make a difference.

6. Check the hairspring for centering, coils concentric and flat and not touching.

7. Check the regulator pins, watch with a 10X loupe as the hairspring winds and unwinds, is it always touching the pins or does it touch and float free

That should be enough to keep you busy for a few minutes...curious as to the findings...

And if that doesn't help, obviously you have to De-Gauss the Flux Capacitor, that's always a problem on these models.

1. done

2. rate more stable

3. beat error verry irregular. 0 dial down and 0.5 crown down

4. no mic configuration possible

5. done, no effect

6. everything perfectly centered

7. no abnormalities

Now that I'm typing I think it also could be a dirty pallet fork jewel... will look at it over the weekend.

Mark.

Not sure what you have done so far, so this is what I would do based on your comments.

1. Remove the rotor

2. Check the timing again and note how it reacts

3. Test it Dial Up, Dial Dn, and Crown Down, what are the readings over say 30 seconds time

4. Make sure the gain on the vibrograph is fully maxed out or as high as possible without it skipping, you want the mic to pick up the pallet giving the impulse to the impulse jewel, not the escape locking on the pallet stone

5. Demagnitise the watch, but the hairspring is non-magnetic so it shouldn't really make a difference.

6. Check the hairspring for centering, coils concentric and flat and not touching.

7. Check the regulator pins, watch with a 10X loupe as the hairspring winds and unwinds, is it always touching the pins or does it touch and float free

That should be enough to keep you busy for a few minutes...curious as to the findings...

And if that doesn't help, obviously you have to De-Gauss the Flux Capacitor, that's always a problem on these models.

An answer by a guru it is ....Thanks! Will check it out tonight.

So I fully disassembled, cleaned and oiled an Omega calibre 1120 for a friend (and damn was it dirty).

I put it back together and now the twilight-zone begins. When on the vibrograph the rate is affected by the position of the rotor.... yes, the position of the rotor. And not just a little bit. E.g. when the rotor is on top the movement runs slow and when I turn the rotor only half a turn it runs fast (movement in horizontal position).

I'm out of ideas so I hope an other movement guru can give me some insight on a probable cause?

Thanks in advance!

Mark.

cool!

Thanks guys

I will stick with what I have got. I will swap the ETA 2836 I have into another watch I have running the Asian 2836. And will start again with a rep B&R running a 2892 and put the other ETA in that.

Thanks again

Wise decision! Good luck.

You can transfer the date wheel overlay (if there is one)... that's about the only thing you can transfer as everything else is different between those movements e.g. dial feet, hand sizes, stem, etc. Forget the transplant!

Didn't you ask the same question here? The 2824 and 2836 are similar when it comes to date wheel assembly. It's pretty straight forward. If you can get it off you can get it on. No tutorial needed. Unless there are some issues but I gave you my thought on the matter in your initial post. Apparently that wasn't satisfying.

this is not a 6498 mov.( anybody-correct me please if I am wrong). I had once watch with this kind of movement( topic )-very long power reserve( around 4-4,5 days). But unfortunately movement is 100% designed in china...no idea about movement quality or who will service it if needed afterward.

You are a 100% right. A Chinese movement which I would not disassemble in a milion years. These movements aren't made to taken apart.

Remove the gear, it has no function as the movement does not use the day function. It's only one screw so it should not cause any problems.

From the USA/NY...

The question that arrises is, why would a dealer post this? Maybe this watch is in the pipelines?

My thoughts are that Glock and Sig are not exotic, but commonplace. Other than that, contraband gets smuggled in to all countries all the time and I'd rather not live someplace where the felons have the guns and the law abiding citizens are defenseless against them.

In that case, please send me some Glocks!

I live in the EU and I watch a lot of movies... that said. In most of them they make it appear guns are freely available in the US. I know it differs from state to state. In my country guns are strictly prohibited (which is a good thing imo). But a lot of felons do carry guns. On the evening news I saw some confiscated guns and amongst them there were some really exotic models like a Glock and Sig Sauer etc. That makes me wonder.

Where do they get their guns? Maybe they are shipped from the US (or any other country) just like our reps? DHL at your doorstep with a AK47? ....

Would like to hear your thoughts.

he is close enough to fall over clutching his nose and pick up his teath for being rude!

Normally you insert one side of the date wheel under the minute train bridge (the big silver plate near the crown) and lign the teeth of the date wheel up with the date jumper bridge. Then you pull the date jumper spring backwards in order to seat the date wheel properly. Problem is that most Rolex' come with a date wheel overlay which makes access to the date jumper spring nearly impossible. In that case you need to remove the overlay first and reglue it after you reseated the date wheel.

Here's a 'but'. It could very well be some of the teeth of the date wheel are bend. I've encountered it before en due to the bend teeth the date wheel would keep popping out of the date jumper bridge. In that case you need to inspect the date wheel with a loupe and look at the jumper spring to indicate at which teeth the date wheel will pop off!

Good luck

Could be the crown isn't screwed propperly on to the stem but it's more likely the keyless works are messed up. Or both? Bring it back to your 'so called' watchmaker...

Use a professional airbrush. You can regulate the paint flow much better.