Rolexman

Thanks guys. Will contact them. I however don't see any measurements regarding hight and thickness on Esslinger's site...

So I got me a new Explorer 2010. After servicing the movement I was about to water proof the case. I popped the crystal and than I noticed they glued the tension ring in place... After gently trying to repress the crystal I noticed the tension ring was getting lightly disformed. It was a really tight sqeeze. After that there was no way I could get the crystal in again. I end up prying the tension ring out which resulted in destroying it off course!

I was able to get the following measurement with a digital caliper.

Thick: 0,65 ~ 0,68 mm

Hight: 1,45 ~ 1,50 mm

Diameter: 31,84 ~ 31, 89mm

Now this is the most important part: Where can I buy a new tension ring of this size?

Thanks,

Mark

If you're not a watchmaker you can't fix it. It Could be anything.

Did it start loosing time directly after you worked on it? Maybe your screwdrivers were maganetzed which caused the hair-spring to magantize?... If that's the case you need to remove te balance and have it professionally demagentized.

It's the crystal retaining ring (nylon) and it does not need grease. It's pressure fitted. Be carefull not to disform it and always put it back the same way it came off (the retaing ring is form fitting, and takes the shape of the crystal when first used). Otherwise you will have a hard time water proofing the watch afterwards.

Think positive guys. IMO there are very few dealers which out-perform Josh and Andrew. They are the most stable and trustworthy dealers on de board!

I think it's great they at least try out new services.

22mm

No it's 21! Same spec as gen. But with a little effort you can fit a 22 without problems. 21 straps are almost impossible to source.

Only thing I can figure is that if the case clamps were not providing enough downward force (due to shape, space or what ever)then the stem might actually cause the above to occur. Dunno?

That might very well be the case.

The theory is sound. Only thing left to do is try. Aside from those you mentioned I have seen a few sellers on fleabay that routinely have movements for sale for decent prices. Although I have not bought from them so I cannot say for sure if they are good or not. I got a nice new 2824 from Ofrei but I did it when I needed a bunch of other things too. Bob is very helpful. Let us know how it works out.

The spacer and movement clamps make sure the dial and rehaut is pressed against the case firmly. At least if you fastened them tightly. The only thing that is affected is the crown position. In other words the stem can't pull the dial away from the movement.In case of a 2824 in a 2836 case the stem itself would break due to the force of the movement clamps before the dial ever would come off.

Yes, it's a cheap Asian movement. Most of these movements perform pretty well. But if they break you're usually better off replacing the entire movent as parts are hard to source and a whole movement is mostely around $10~20 bucks.

Do a search on ETA movement or visit our dealer section and look up some movement shots. Stay long enough with us, read, read and read some more. educate yourself and eventually you will also see in a blink what's Asian and what's not

Happy reading.

What 'special attention' should be supplied to the pushers?

If you want to grease the pushers you have to remove them. In order to do that yo need to remove the movement first. As said before, grease is not needed to water proof a watch.

I have wore my Link chrono several time to shower and never had any issues with water,the thing is that i never greased the seals.Maybe i was lucky.

You didn't read my post. There's no luck involved.

Cheap 21j Asian movement? Don't bother! Fixing it probably costs more than the entire watch.

I blame OP

Great review, terrible watch

Thanks for taking the time.

Sweeeeeet! Nice project.

With chronos the chrono pushers do need special attention. One of the most common mistakes is that all the seals need grease in order to be water proof. The grease protects the rubber from dryness and cracks and that's about it. It's like shoe polish, it protects the leather. Water resistance is created by the way all the parts fit together. Here are tolerances, margins and finishing key factor. In other words. If your watch isn't water proof now, it won't be after you greased all the seals.

Most PO have 1 seal in the crown and 1 in the tube. You can clearly see the rubber o-ring. If you can't see them they ain't there . You don't glue the crystal but solely use the tension ring. Know that not the grease makes a watch water proof but the margins and tolerances of the different parts fitted together. Better have it checked for leaks before letting it come in contact with water.

Congrats on your annual post!! At any rate, I would bet that the "Swiss" ETA's are not serviced inspected and sealed in the little Black and Silver foil packets when they get to the manufacturer.Figure that both the Swiss and clone ETA's are going to be dry and dirty so, having said that I would buy whichever you are comfortable with and factor in a service (Clean,lube and regulate) into the price.

Very well put 153! Read my take on the clones here. The Rolex clone is nothing more than a decorated ETA clone. There are only 2 things that can cause problems. The extra bridge they added to create the 'single bridge'look. The screw holding it can come loose and cause problems. Some lock-tight solves this issue. Also the cap they simply glued on the rotor screw can fall off. Securing it with some gorilla glue also solves this issue. Other than that it's a very reliable movement and up to par with the ETA after servicing.

Stay away. It's a fake website. That's not Joshua.

Most of the time the .46mm can be compensated with the tube diameter. This does however result in a more stiff turning of the crown as the stem is pushed against the inner tube seal. I however find that it feels very gen-like that way.

gen

Call me crazy but I've seen these deals go bad in the past. All the other vets know what I'm talking about...

As I live in The Netherlands my suggestion is to have some phone contact with FDG first before anyone makes a down payment.

This way if the deal goes bad, we at least know how to get in touch with this guy...

Remove the pearl with a razor an try to lift the bezel by gently prying the 'pearl hole' with a tooth pick (to avoid scratches). Heat the bezel in advance with a hair dryer so that the glue will become soft. Glue the new bezel back on.

Good luck.

Great looking watch. Really superB. I do however find it to big for your wrist..

Inscriptions don't mean sh*t nowadays. Shoot some clear macro pics of the dial side. There's a good chance this is a clone.