Rolexman

Well, there are some good 8800 reps out there. Sead sells them over on RG.

Here are some more live pics.

Looks good enough to me

Hey rolexman. thanks for the advice and offer of help. I just got back from the watchsmith. He has told me the chrono hammer is sittin to far from the reset button (not by much but enough to stop the button hitting it.) if you press reset about 10 or 20 times it will just catch. Cant repair it so gonna have to speak to dealer. Its not stuck just not in right position.

bvc.

I doubt it's the hammer. 9 out of 10 the chrono cam is just gummed up. Most a7750s are full of dirt and dibree. Let your watchmaker remove the chronocam and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner... that will do the trick.

This forums being taken over by noobs LOL

Seriously I think you're dreaming on this one.

LMAO! You're absolutely right! This project just aint gonna fly

yeh bro. the bottom button (reset) just goes in now. its not catching on anything, no click, just a springy feeling if that makes sense.

Yes, it makes sese. Problem is probably the chrono cam. It could have come lose in which case you should hear something when you shake the watch. If not the cam is probably jammed. Just open it up to see what is going on. Post a macro pic and I will try to help you further.

Use this to unscrew the case back , I don't know the proper English term

You should have posted this in the 'repair and upgrade' section. You will probably get more usefull response threre. Shoot a PM to a Mod and ask if they will move it there.

Maybe too obvious but....did you press 'stop' before trying to reset? Otherwise reset won't work.

One trick I used a few weeks ago was to use a small pin vise (it came with my small watch drill bit set) put the hand in some clear adhesive tape so you can handle it, then you put the hand tube in the pin vise and turn very carefully to compress.

You gotta use a good loupe to be able to see the effect and I think it's better to start with very light pressure and go up from there untill you get the desired efect.

Thanks for the tip Manuel... little risky though

Caps will get you nowhere!

All your answers can be found here: Walhalla

Well the title says it all I think. After fixing a date gear issue I had to reassemble the dial and hands again. Then I noticed the chrono second hand was slipping so I took it off and glued it just like the pic shown here:

After putting the hand back on I noticed it still slips a little bit when restting from 30. The hand post can be excluded so it has to be the friction (or lack thereof) in the hand sleeve/ pin combo?

What do I do?

A Use some epoxy (rather not in case the movement needs servicing in the future)?

B Use a small amout of blu-tack in the sleeve to create the propper friction?

C Pinch the tube (but there is the risc of pinching it too far so that the pin doesn't fit anymore)?

D Use a small amount of 'thread-lock' on the pin (my personal favorite as it has the properties of glue but the hand can still be removed)?

E Something else.....

To install the hands, I pick them up and position them with my #2 tweezers, then press them in place with the Bergeron tool, works ok for me...

No lame questions, it's the only way to learn, than and practice, practice, practice, watchsmithing doesn't come easy.

RG

Well after I fixed the date change gear I'm also stuggling to get the hands (hour, minute and chrono second) back on. It's the most difficult thing of the whole process. I' ve already made like 6 attempts (hand on-off-on-off etc.) and it's so freaking hard to position them so that they don't touch eachother or the chrono hands.. Sometimes when pressing down the hour hand is just shoots down the post so that it sits flat against the dial . No tool can get beneath it and I have to remove the dial again....

Last night (01:00AM) I was still trying but had to give up as I was falling a sleep behind my desk LOL.

Got mine a year ago or more.. and sent it for a reluming job...and..

It's not how it looks in the dark glowing.... but how how it looks in the light not glowing!

Your pic looks cool but that way we can't judge if it is a good lume job or not? It might as well be 8 lume blobs..

I thought the well accepted consensus is that it is impossible to overwind a watch, is anyone else remembering reading that by Z?

Second that.

You were right Rob (as always )

The pivot and pin(?) didn't stay in place so I bend the plate covering the date gear a bit so that it keeps the date change gear in place.

The arrow indicates the place were the plate came lose from the pivot (due to the little pressure form the cover plate)

This made the date change gear slip over the DW teeth

This is the part of the cover plate that needed to be bend downwards.

Thanks a Million Rob! You saved the day (date ).

Greetzzzzz,

Mark

Normally if the plate with the gear on it is too loose, meaning that there is too much of a gap between the datechange plate and the cover that holds in in place, I replace the cover with a spare one to see if this fixes it.

It will be more clear to you when you open it up and have a look.

Sometimes the datechange gear can also be loose, you will be able to see this when you test it.

Also, you can have the datewheel sitting too high and not engaging to the gear teeth correctly. The reason for this is the datechange cover plate is not pressing down far enough to hold the datewheel against the movement. The fix for this is to try and bend the cover edge over the datewheel teeth down so it holds it down.

As soon as you take it apart and test it, the actual problem will be visible and then we can take steps to fix it...

RG

Okay, very clear. Will do some disassembling over the week-end and will post an update ASAP. IMO you deserve a paid section on this board. Your info is of great value and I would happily pay for it (maybe you should discuss it with Admin ). Can't express my graditute enough for your extensive and helpfull answer!

The manual date change is done with a small gear attached to a plate that engages into the clutch gear. The date change gear assembly is on a pivot and pin and moves from side to side, into the datewheel teeth to change the date, and out of the way so the datewheel can change automatically.

Once the dial and hands are removed, insert the stem, put it in the datechange setting position, turn the crown, and look for the small gear that is on the plate. You will see it move from side to side as you turn the crown CW and CCW.

MAKE sure you remove the stem in the WINDING position only or you will have problems.

There is a defect with many A7750's with this gear and plate, the problem is that it doesn't stay engaged into the clutch gear and wobbles around instead of being firm. You will see a small cover over the datechange gear, remove the one screw for the cover, and remove the cover, and have a look at the gear assembly for any problems.

You can eliminate the keyless works as the problem by simply going to the time setting position, if you can set the time ok and it doesn't slip, the problem is with the actual datechange gear not the keyless works.

Fixing it can be many things, it all depends on the actual problem, which is why you have to inspect and investigate and discover what is happening, and then figure out how to fix it.

RG

Thanks Rob! As per your description the keyless works can also be excluded as the problem. I will investigate the datechange gear and look what is going on. What can be done about the wobble if that's the case? Is there a remmedie?

Also, to state the obvious, you are not trying to set the date while the time is between 10p.m. and 2a.m. are you?

Nope

Yesterday I received my third Skyland with movement issues. This time I can't properly set the date manually. When turning the crown sometimes the DW jumps and sometimes not. This only applies when trying to set the date by hand. In normal 'time-mode' it does jump at midnight as it should. But when I try to set it manually I hear sort of a clicking noise. As if the teeth of the DW don't engage or slip. I did a search but nothing really came up. All I can say is that the 'slippage' doesn't apply to certain dates so it can be excluded that the DW is bend or the dial is touching it.

I'm thinking of removing the dial and hand to take a look at the DW but I have no clue of which part specifically needs attention?

Input is much appreciated.

Great shots, as always. Fits your wrist very well.

I just received my third Skyland. The first two had serious movement issue's and you guessed it... this one is also WITH movement issues! Man, I hate the a7750... I'm always out of luck. It seems everybody is receiving propper working ones and all I'm receiving is crap. All 3 Skylands were ordered with different dealers which all belong to the top 3 quality dealers on the board...... even this gives no guarantees. This was my last a7750.

They didn't get the right rotor attachment right like on the gen swiss 7750 mvt still.

Because they used the Asian rotor...

At last the master returns home!

ROBSTEP

That symptom is typical of a gummed-up auto-wind module. There are 2 additional gears as well as the bearings in the rotor itself.

I would remove & disassemble the module & clean all of the individual parts (including the rotor) in the ultrasonic using a mixture of 1 tablespoon of plain ammonia + 1-2 drops of dish detergent (not dishwasher detergent). Run them through at least 2 complete cycles (10 minutes each). Afterwards, rinse & dry well. Then re lub according to ETA specs & reassemble. That should eliminate the rotor spin during manual winds as well as significantly quiet the rotor during normal (auto) winds.

Should you still need replacement parts, try julesborel.com

Usefull tip as always! Your input is appreciated!

Over $1200 bucks for a Chinese replica ...

Chris is right. The lume sucks big time. Even reluming never get's you up to par with the gen. The lume on this one looks like whip cream LOL.

Super rep doesn't mean perfect rep..unfortunately.

It's a Chinese thing...#8 is a lucky number...so they are essentially pre-allocated to those "inside" the industry...either to Josh himself and the gang, and the factory folks. #4 is the bad number...

Thanks for the insight Toad!

Why are certain numbers excluded?........ I have no idea.

Indeed. He's very busy with his new webstore.