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Rolexman

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Posts posted by Rolexman

  1. OK, I was going to create a new thread to ask this question... But since it was mentioned here... Why do people keep saying that the V2 dial has a better lume dot at the 3 oclock position? YES, it is slightly larger than the one on the V1. But it is still about 30% smaller than it should be. In my humble opinion, the V2 looks worse because at least the 1/2 dot looked like it belonged, now the 2/3 dot looks out of place completely. Looks like they tried to cram it in there and ran out of space.

    True, still not perfect but I prefer the V2 dot.... 1/4th closer to a whole dot LOL.

  2. HI,

    Actually, between lugs number is not a serial number but the date of the production. Your V2 has a correct one :1408 B5 means 14th week of 2008, V1 has a date 49th week of 2016 or 49th week of 1916( the dates engr. has been since 2002) so it is pure SF date. On funny side you got a timetravel watch.

    Cheers

    Great post! But it's actually the V1 that has the correct number. The V2 is on the left.

  3. Well I was the one who ordered the Skyland the day it came out... only to find out that 2 days later an improved version was released :(. To make a long story short I have a Skyland V1 and V2. It's actually a no brainer as the V2 is much better and more acurate than the V1.......

    But, not everything is better on the V2

    Sure,

    The pearl has improved.

    The Breitling Logo on the dial is somewhat bolder.

    The 'b' on the bezel is stamped

    No half a lume dot @ 3

    But IMO the case back on the V1 is much more accurate in regards to engraving (deepness thickness, logo etc). Also the chrono second hand on the V2 is blood red whilst the gen is somewhat more organge. The V1 has the correct colour so I will change the hand out. Also the V1 has the nicely engraved rotor which will be swapped. With the result of making a Skyland hybrid which is very accurate :D

    Here are some quick and dirty pics during the overall check of the seals and movement, waterproofing etc. Before I forget, both watches came from Andrew. During the disassembly of the V2 I noticed ALL THE SEALS WERE GREASED!. Even the one in the crown...... go figure.

    -Click to enlarge-

    V1 on the left

    thumb_big_200809162030021341583062.jpg

    Greased case back seal

    thumb_big_200809162030041819276207.jpg

    Greased tube seal

    thumb_big_200809162030061662038479.jpg

    Double seal on the pusher's stem

    thumb_big_200809162030102013710587.jpg

    Greased crown seal

    thumb_big_200809162030081600687572.jpg

    V1 on the left: V1 is engraved, V2 is etched. Perlage is nicer on the V2 though.

    thumb_big_200809162035241127714666.jpg

    V1 left: Notice the difference in engravements? Especially the typpe#. Also the logo looks much more accurate on the V1, the V2 is too bold and bulky.

    thumb_big_2008091620352664657964.jpg

    V1 on the left. Notice the crispness of the bezel engravement on the V1?

    thumb_big_200809162035321322945567.jpg

    Somewhat larger engraved date of production between the lugs on the V2 (left) but the date is science fiction: week 49 in 2016 [thanks Alecjs]

    thumb_big_200809162038452058908679.jpg

    Crown & pushers comparison: hard to say but I think the V2 is more accurate (V2 on the right)

    thumb_big_200809162035302113074393.jpg

    AR shot: pretty much the same colour and absorption but the V2 collects much more dust and finger prints, Like my UBCE (V2 on the right)

    thumb_big_200809162035281275740173.jpg

    Thanks for looking!

  4. Rolexman, the jerky second hand is normal on watches this big. On my gen it is also a little bit jerky, nowhere near as smooth as my gen BCE. When I first bought it, I immediately noticed it and asked my friend at the AD and he told me that it's perfectly normal. I've also seen many posts on TZ talking about this. On the super avenger the second hand is even more jerky, bigger the watch the more jerky it gets

    Thanks for the info UB7..... so jerky it stops running? I don't think that's normal :p. But you are indeed correct, on big dials the second hand looks more jerky because each seperate tick becomes more noticeable due to the longer second hand.

  5. Interesting. Watches seem to come in good and bad batches. I just sold a new UBCE w/ updated font, because it wasn't as gen-like as my Skyland V1 when I compared the two. I had the exact opposite experience between them also. The bezel and AR were better on the Skyland i received.

    Odd indeed. My UBCE is almost a year old....

  6. Hi guys,

    Today I received the Skyland V1. Due to my working hours and (ahum) my social life I have very little time to do a review at the moment so therfore you will have to do with some short observations. If I get the chance I will shoot some pics over the week-end.

    First of all to be clear this is the V1. I'm in the middle of ordering a V2 so maybe I will do a comparison if I have the time. Back on track. The whole 'super rep' thingy is over... all new reps are 'super reps' IMO. Quality and finish are superB compared to what was.

    - Well constructed crown and tube. Nice and long thread. Crown and tube are both sealed with a gasket.

    - Bezel construction is somewhat loose. It has some slack. No where near the quality of the UBCE.

    - 'b' on bezel is etched

    - Very hard to push chrono pushers (more later)

    - AR OK but not as good as the UBCE.

    - Case back nice and crisp

    - Movement?.... CRAP!

    The a7750 keeps good time but as soon as the chronograph is engaged the chrono second hand is very jerky. So jerky it sometimes stops (and therefore also stoping the rest of the movement). Also the chrono cam sticks which means the hands (chrono second and minute) jump all over the place when I reset.

    As I said before the chrono pushers were very heavy to push so I removed the movement and saw 1 pusher missed a c-clip. WTF. This way the pusher could be pushed out without anything holding it. I was glad I noticed it before I lost the pusher. Then I noticed each pusher was equipped with 2(!!) seals which explained why they were hard to push. So I greased all the seals and put it all back together (after adding the c-clip off course). Tested it at 6 bar. No problem.

    I'm bugged out the movement doesn't function as it should but on the other hand this is a good reason for servicing.

    Overall a nice watch. I don't know if it's the cheap diver strap or what but this one somehow doesn't scream quality like the UBCE.

    BTW. The rehaut is made out of steel an can easily be seperated from the dial!... good to know if you want to fix the 60-80 flaw on the V2 :)

  7. Great Pics... I have mine on the way from Andrew. He also promised me the updated dial and bracelet :). I however am curious if the bracelet will fit as it is from the V2... so maybe the dimensions and lug holes won't match.

    Does this version have serials between the lugs like the V2?

    How's the crown/ tube construction?

  8. From the same crappy lume applier as the SOSF :yuk: ..... I rather have 1 half dot than 12 misaligned dots LOL. I also think the graphite dial doesn't look right, just can't put my finger on it?

    I have a V1 on it's way but I will also buy the V2 when the bracelet comes out. Maybe combine some parts and do a comparative review.... For now? Can't wait to have the V1 in my hands :D

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