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Rolexman

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Posts posted by Rolexman

  1. I assume this is not at an AD but at one of the secondhand shops he mentioned above. I can't imagine what kind of a [censored] storm an AD would get into with Breitling if they were busted selling fakes. I would imagine (and hope) that this dealer was ignorant of what he had and someone fooled him on a trade in. But I could be wrong.

    Indeed, a second hand shop. Not an AD.

  2. How severe is the scratch? For light scratches have a look at my signature. If it's a deep scratch you gonna need different polishing compounds and a Dremel. The bracelet is an easy fix as it is brushed. Buy a brush pen (click) or use a Scotch pad. Only brush in one direction.

  3. The click wheel of the automatic winding is not "freewheeling" but is catching, therfore the rotor spins simultaneously with the hand winding making the hand winding rough/ difficult.

    I know my way around movements a bit so I'm looking for some DIY tips. I know I need to remove the auto winding bridge but then? ...... some pics or a small guide would be helpful.

    Do I grease/ graphite powder the click wheel in order for it to slip? Or do I need to do the opposite and clean it thoroughly?

    Thanks!!

  4. And if the "machining" argument isn't convincing enough just point out that Seiko Diashock springs (that three leafed spring on your movement's staff similar to KIF) are NOT an option on any level of finish for any ETA movement... and Incabloc is the only shock spring on all 5 levels of finish for the ETA 2824-2, so he can't get away with arguing it's KIF either...

    Damn, I like this sort of expertise :thumbsupsmileyanim:

  5. Hi, This movt is being machined... It is swiss.. The swiss wordings are machine off due to the add on machining work. It is a more expensive movt. If you do not want it. See it back to me. i will send you the watch in raw gold movt. joshua

    bullsh#it.... I have had seveal machined and decorated ETA's and all had the correct marking!

  6. So here I am, shopping with my girlfriend in a well known Dutch watch city. There are a lot of watch shops which I always visit (almost structured LOL). Some are well known ADs and others are shops specialized in second hand watches. All of them, including the second hand shops, are very reputable......

    So when arriving at the last shop and after drooling over some IWCs in the window I saw a black TT BCE.

    The first thing I noticed was the crooked date, then the Asian font... hmm... this can't be fake I said to myself. I also noticed the very bad fitting of the Pilot bracelet. Could this be because the bracelet is gen and case is rep? Then I noticed the missing 'tick' at 10! WTF!? Also the light yellow subdials (instead of darker 18K gold).

    So I'm 99% sure this is a rep and then it's decision time! What do you do? Do you walk in? What do you say?

    These are the 3 pictures from the website:

    e1tg1.jpg

    e2cw4.jpg

    e3sd4.jpg

  7. But i have question about the crystal. Is crystal on original speedy date like on regulas speedmaster pros? Doomed like that or is it flater? How is replica crystal compared to original? Should i worry about this?

    What are the other flaws on omega?

    The crystals of the Date en Pro are different. The Pro has a very noticeable domed plexiglass whereas the Date has slightly domed saphire crystal. The crystal on the rep is spot on. The only difference is the stronger one sided AR on the rep. Yes, the gen has less strong AR. Also the colour of the AR is different. The rep's AR is blue (which I like a lot) and the gen is more pink/plum and therefor hardly noticeable on the gen white Date.

    PS: With your wrist size I would definitely go for the Date. You won't regret it!

  8. the quality of these a7750 seems really crap imo.. even the eta7750 can not be considered a piece of art.

    The ETA 7750 is considered one of the best and sturdiest chronograph movements in the world.... but hey, opinions vary.

    BTW: I know you can't see the oil but believe me, it's there. Even a thin film layer can cause problems. That doesn't necessarily mean it will happen in your case as I don't know how much and where you aplied the oil. I do however know that if it reaches the hair spring you're in big trouble..... Look at The Zigmeister Zumba

  9. Watchsmiths are something like chef cooks ..... full of themselves!

    BTW, great story Corgi. When reading all I could think of was 'RUN Forest RUN' :D

    I had 3 experiences with watch smiths.

    1. Local non branded jeweler brought my precious Breitling Chronomat GT to his watchmaker (whom I never saw) to reglue a hour marker which came loose. Back then I didn't know much about DIY so..... When I got it back it had a severely scratched case back and glue all over the dial and when I say all over I mean alllllll over. I had to sell it for a couple of $ because it didn't bring me joy anymore (which I now regret).

    b1ge5.jpg

    2. Later I brought my 4th gen PO (ETA) to a really good watchmaker which fixed the keyless works for me. It popped out after I had some troubles inserting the stem back in. It was a good and cheap fix and this guy was a real professional. Doctors coat and everything.

    3. As I moved to another neighbourhood I couldn't use the good watchmaker from 2. So I whent looking for another watch smith in my neighbourhood. I thought I found a good one as he had all the credentials etc. Brought him my black BCE which broke during shippment. I could have send it back to Homer but I wanted to have it serviced anyway. So of it whent to the watchmaker. Got it back 'serviced' for less than $100. Cheap I know, but I could not help noticing that the rotor spinned everytime I hand wound the watch. I contacted The Zigmeister and he told me that's typpically for a movement that has had a swish & dip. So I whent back to the guy asked him why the rotor span when I hand wound the movement and he told me that it is probably because of the dryness of one of the geers (slipping wheel?) or the low weight ratio of the rotor. I asked him about the way he serviced the movement and he insisted he torn down the entire movement, No swish & dip....... I could leave it and he would apply some grease to a clicking wheel? After a week he called me and I could come pick it up. Off couse the problem wasn't solved........jeez.

  10. well, today i bought this oil

    So you still bought oil?..... jeezz.... There's a difference between oil and grease you know. Oil is way to liquid, that's why it doesn't reduce noise that well! Also the oil will spin all over the movement. Not right away but eventually after heating up and settling in. I do hope your movement will last .....

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