Rolexman

Was wondering the exact same thing. There

My v1 Skyland suffers from the same problem as a lot of A7750s. The chrono second and minute hand are not returning straight to zero after reset. A more detailed description of the problem can be foud HERE.

I brought my watch to a local watchmaker and after taking apart the chrono module he told me he couldn't fix it as it had something to do with a loaded spring? This spring was the cause that the hands swung past the upright position before returning to zero (hope this makes sence). Whereas he could alter the torque of this spring on the ETA7750 he couln't on the A7750? Now I really do think I can fix it myself. I already took apart the auto winding module before so I know my way around the movement a bit. I also have a detailled manual so I would like to give it a go.

After closer inspection of the chrono module I noticed the folowing. Take a look at the position of the hammer (photo's can be enhanced by clicking on them).

1. Original reset mode.

2. Chronograph running.

3. Sticking hammer/ chrono cam?

The hammer usually moves in it's original position (picture 1) after I release the reset button but sometimes it sticks (picture 3) and the chrono second and minute hand freeze -sometimes left sometimes right from the 12 o clock marker- in a position other than upright. I have to give the hammer a gentle tap (where the screw driver tip is pointing) to have the hands reset to zero.

Tips and info are much appreciated!

Good review BT!... not as elaborate as I'm used from you but a nice read anyway!

Steelfish is such a great diver watch. That old version is really growing on me!

It's a regular SO. But it sure looks gooooood LOL

CONGRATS LR!

Just came back from my holiday to Mallorca and I used the sh*t out of my Skyland. Went swimming, surfing, scuba diving and even on the jet ski. Of course I greased all the seals and checked for leaks on for hand. Great watch and very well constructed (see my signature for details). With some extra checks there is no reason why not to treat it as a genuine.....

Understood, if he can remove the balance, tell him that with the stem removed, he can push the hacking lever in place and it will seat correctly into the clutch gear. Keyless works MUST be in the winding position for this procedure to work.

I have done it, so it's possible, should be a quick fix.

RG

Okay I will tell him, but I don't know for sure if the winding position is correct in my case as I can clearly hear, it is not the 'normal' winding position. Also the rotor never spun before while hand winding so I think it has something to do with the keyless works being messed up. I will tell him what you told me so if he is any good he will get it fixed.

Will let you know how it turns out!

Thanks again!

Removing and re-installing the balance wheel, if you have never done it, I don't recommend. Too risky and too easy to damage.

Then the only solution is to get access via the dial, and that is not simple either, due to all the chrono springs and parts that have to go back together.

I am afraid there is no easy solution to this one, I can't type out a how to for either of these procedures, since it's too complex, and the balance is so fragile I am very hesitant for you to attempt it as you could easily break off the pivots.

Sorry I can't offer anymore.

RG

Understood... to my local watch maker it is

Thanks for your input Rob!

There are two separate items here.

1. If the rotor is spinning when you wind the watch, the problem is the reversing (click) wheel, it's got nothing to do with the keyless works. Only fix is to either clean or replace the wheel.

2. If you can't pull the stem to the time setting position, the problem is most likely the hacking lever. Once in a while the clutch and hacking lever will get out of position, and the lever will not be engaged into the clutch wheel. There is a fix without a full disassembly, but it involves removing the balance wheel, and pushing the hacking lever back into place from where it meets the balance wheel...not a simple or easy fix. It can be done, but it's challenging.

The only other fix, is to get at the keyless works from the dial side and reposition the hacking lever into the clutch gear.

RG

Thanks Rob,

It's definately #2. I also saw your post here and I think I can see the hacking lever holding the balance wheel down. So now my question is, won't I damage the balance wheel/ hair spring if I remove it whilst the hacker lever is holding it down. And what is the best way to remove the balance wheel? What happens if I remove the balance wheel? Will the movement start running? Will I be able to install the balance wheel again without further disassembly etc? Is it as straight forward as removing the balance screw, removing the balance wheel, wiggle the lever back in position, replace the balance and voila?

Thanks, your help is much appreciated!

PS: Sorry for the edits

Well off course it had to happen one day. I messed up the keyless works of my A7750. This is not my first keyless works incident, it happens to me all the time but always on the ETA 28xx series. I found some repair guides on this last type of movement but not on the 7750. Only a link to ETA.ch that doesn't work anymore.

So any links or tips on fixing the keyless works on the 7750 would be welcome.

Thanks!

PS: I don't know why it happend, as I have removed and inserted the stem of a a7750 thousands of times. This time the crown of my Skyland wouldn't 'pop' out any more. So I removed the stem/ crown. Cleaned the spring mechanism in the crown/ stem and oiled it (now the spring in the crown works fine) and gently tried to reinsert it. It locked into the hand wind position but I noticed the rotor spinned with every turn I hand wound (So I knew something was wrong) and I could only hack into the date position not the time setting postition..... I tried reinserting the stem over a dozen times but each time it just doesn't engages like it should

I really don't get people who buy an aftermarket strap?.... please, don't get me wrong. It's just that they want a super rep so no one can spot it is a rep and then buy a relatively cheap leather strap without any markings. IMO such a strap just screams fake, or at least raises suspicion!

Maybe it's more common amongst PAM owners but I have yet to see a gen Breit owner sporting his breit on a after market strap...

I would stick with the rep strap or bracelet.

I tried to do the same but not everything is compatible. Only the hands, dial, case back and rotor. The

And you're talking about which watch?.... I see pics of small (sub @6) version, the normal and the chrono version of Heritage. There is no rep of the small Heritage, at least no decent one. The 'normal' and chrono Heritage are +- 45mm across, plenty of reviews of these watches can be found.

Ok!

I have heard thet the black colour on the Skyland is not as near to the gen as the grey? Am I wrong

I would say it's visa versa as there are no varieties in black. Black is just plain black. Grey on the other hand is a different story. But reading the reports I also think the grey version is spot on. Only the blue dialed version has some small nuances. Just do some reading in the Breit area. All the answers can be found there!

First choose your dealer, than the watch. Both dealers are great although Josh is known for his fast communication and shippment. In regards to model choise I think it's a personal matter. Some prefer Porche others Ferrari, both great cars with each it's pros & cons.

A black Skyland and black SOSF both have the same correct colour dial ..... black. Don't compare apples to pears

Listen... if it ticks, there could be a bomb inside LOL

Realigning the datewheel isn't a simple job. Like Taka said you need the right tools and skills. It involves removing the crown, taking out the movement and taking off the dial and hands. Without the right tools and skills you probably end up causing more harm than good.

You're welcome......

Nice... We share the same taste. This one is also one of my favs. Buy a nice gen brown calf for it, it's worth it.

PS: What ya doin' with that Skyland in the background? LOL

Common you guys.. the brushed bezel is the easiest fix of them all. A noob job . Just tape of the crystal, take a scotch pad (or equivalent) and brush it the way you want. Only brush in one direction at a time and don't forget to remove the screw as they are polihed. Experiment with the pressure on the pad as more pressure will cause a different finish and visa versa.

.... you won't believe your eyes

Great review Jawo. Nice pics and clear descriptions. Square watches are not my taste but this one looks mighty fine! Wear it well and thanks for the effort!

Andrew has stated that the dial alone costs nearly a $100 to make.

Only a ferrari costs this amount of money in China..... Believe me, 5 bucks tops.

Not my cup of tea but the finish looks superbe! Wear it well!

try this document:

https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopModules/Vi...&DocType=DT

Maybe not teardown instructions, but definitely assembly instructions.

I used this to completely disassemble and assemble a 7750.

Link doesn't work

BTW: I think it's probably the chrono cam.

Polishing with a too abrasive polish will cause 'smudges' or so called clouds too becaue it's a mineral based crystal.

I'm getting one, and based on your excellent comments here, the decision is, should I save $50 bucks and go for V1?

I'm thinking so, since the only difference wouldn't be recognizable by anyone (other than the Wis's on the boards).

V1 Pro's (vs V2)

More accurate case back

More accurate colour chrono second hand

Better positioned lume dots

Breitling signed rotor

Engraved 'BREITLING' writing on the inside of the case back (instead of etched)

Existing production date between the lugs

V2 Pro's (vs V1)

'B' on the side of the bezel is stamped (instead of echted on the V1)

Slightly better pearl

No half-lume dot issue @ 3

Somewhat bolder Breitling logo on the dial (hardly noticeable though)

Nicer applied perlage on the inside of the case back

Besided the points mentioned above they are the same IMO. Crown and pusher construction are both solid with enough seals to guarantee a 100% water proof watch.

Take your pick

Wonderful endorsement from THE Breitling guy, imho...

Haha thanks. My nick doesn't suit me as I know nothing about Rolex but even more about Breits

Thx Rolexman, this helps a lot. I got a question. Does this mean that the V1 is more accurate than the V2? One thing that pisses me off about the V2 is how the movement isn't engraved.

If you make the V2 to correct problems on the V1, why do you create problems where there wasnt any in the first batch? I pray for a V3 because Id hate to buy 2 watches just to make a more gen looking one. Thanks.

I don't think there will ever be a V3. It's only the rotor that's engraved, you can easily swap it. Overal I think both are very accurate. Each has his own flaws. I find a correct pearl and stamped 'b' on the side of the bezel more important than the correct colour chrono second hand and case back so if I have to opt for one it would be the V2. But some find the right case back and engraved rotor more important....... who cares, I have both versions LOL

Thanks Rolexman....your pictorial has convinced me to buy the V1 from Josh on rubber strap. The half lume dot a 3 looks better to me than the full one on the V2 and the lume just looks better overall on the V1 pictures I've seen so far.

I just ordered the blue dial V1 and have a gen blue divers strap...its going to look great.

The V1 is very nice. Enjoy it!

First,its not a V1 and V2.....V2 sounding like its an improved version from the same maker.

V1 is one maker,came out with his first,V2 is just another maker,came out second.

The maker that came out first F'ed up that lume dot at 3,but imo,makes a better Skyland,the numbers on the tabs,and the bezel seem more like the gen to me then the second makers version,but he did not screw up the lume dot like the first guy.

It is also noted here that the caseback is done better by the first maker,nice to know.

The build quality of the first makers version is very good,i have 2,a very 'gen' feel,even the crown stem is thick and solid,no play,the winding is smooth like the gen,no heavy 'grinding' like other A7750 chrono watches,dunno about the second makers version....would like to hear about that.

True, It's simply used to distinguish them both. Version 1 and Version 2.... it has nothing to do with accuracy. In regards to build quality of the crown and tube I would rate them both the same. Sturdy and without slack. In regards to pushers I would rate the V2 better as it uses scew's to hold down the pusher and not c-clips like the V1. But that's not really significant difference....