Rolexman

Take a look at my signature!

Girlfriends are easy replaced

Good reps are hard to find

;-)

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Priceless... that one made it to my signature! My chakra LOL!

If you can get the price down to say 300 or so I'm in.

Pug - I have that tool, but (unless Im doing something wrong) the caseback is too big for this tool.

Correct... and man can it inflict scratches

The surgical latex gloves always work for me... I pressure test all my watches and they pas 6ATM without a problem. All thightened with rubber gloves

After I switched browsers, I found the link to your previous post & got the explanation from there. And as others have said, that is the nature of these movements. I find that some of them have more 'play' or 'slop' (imperfect machining/fit) within the components than others. Short of remanufacturing the movement, I am not aware of any way to stop the hand from jumping when reset. The important thing is that it resets correctly.

Thanks Freddy. I assume the pics are no longer needed. I will give it a rest.. or sell it to my brother

Your expertise is much appreciated

So all 4 of the chrono hands are resetting incorrectly?

Nope. They all reset okay. The problem is the way they reset.

Are they resetting to the same position each time or different positions?

Yes, all perfect upwards. So they reset to the correct position.

can you post a pic showing where the hands are stopping?

Yep, will do some tomorow.

By the way, I have had alot of problems with the braking system on a number of A7750s, which cause the hour totalizer hand to continue to run when the chrono is OFF. Does that sound anything like the problem you are experiencing?

Nope, no problem with the braking system.

This is as good as I can describe it:

The new Asian 7750 in my Breitling runs perfect but when I push the reset button (after pushing the 'start/ stop' off course) the second and minutecounter hand of the chronograph jump to 11 respectively 1 o'clock, depending on where they are stopped and reset. When I release the 'reset' button they graduately turn to zero. With the same speed as I release the reset button. The hands don't slip as they always reset to the correct position, pointing perfectly upwards.

Have you checked to see of the hands are floating (loose) on their tubes? This is a common problem with rep chronograph hands. The joint that is supposed to fix the hand in place on its tube is not crimped tightly enough & the inertia that results when the chrono is reset often causes the hand to stop in different positions every time. Sometimes, it may be off just a bit & sometimes it will come to rest half way around the dial. The fix in these cases is to either recrimp the joint (if you have a staking tool) or cement it with a tiny dab of epoxy (be extremely careful not to allow any of the cement to migrate into the tube or you will be unable to get the hand back onto its pinion)

Thanks for your reply Freddy. I wish it were the hand tubes. That's an easy fix for me. I tried to describe the problem as good as I can but it is difficult to explain in writing how the chrono hands react when I reset. Even The Zigmeister said he never encountered this phenomenon (see link in post #1). That's just bad look as my last 3 a7750 based reps all suffer from this problem . I would have made a movie of it so everybody can see what I mean, but my camera is of such poor quality it can't even pick up the hands... let alone stand the sweep.

You also posted this in the Breitling section. Don't double post!

First read some instructions on the movement. If you don't know the basic principals of an automatic watch there's no need to contact the dealer. As you are new on the forum we don't know your level of expertise. It could be you are used to quartz (battery) watches and have absolutely no idea of how an automatic movement functions and behaves...

I had a genuine Steelfish without AR.. due to a polishing accident I had to remove the outher AR . It's very common, genuine Breitlings without AR, particular the older/ heavy used ones. The AR often suffers from scratches so sometime instead of having it re-coated they remove the outher AR completely.

So IMO AR is not a reliable tell-sign.

what do you guys see?!?!

A damn good rep!

When I look at the pics in your link to Watchmark's site, which is the watch you received right... it is evident the watch has no AR. It can be seen very clearly. So in some way you also screwed yourself by not accepting the $100.

You should have informed yourself better in the beginning. You jumped the gun on a rep you knew nothing about... let's call this transaction a learning point for the next time . Before you buy a rep, any rep, do some extensive reading. Not only on the rep but also on the gen. What is AR, how does it look? What is an ETA movement? How do I know it is a gen or a clone movement etc. etc. Everything can be found on the forum and al the questions you have, have been answered before in 99% of the cases. So use the search function extensively!

If he sold you the SOSF lite..... meaning the version with Asian high-beat movement, mineral crystal and no AR he is conning you as you paid way too much for it.

Just open the case back (simple trick is to use some latex gloves which surgeons use -the thin white ones- and twist the back open) verify it's not ETA and you have case. If you paid for an ETA movement and saphire you should get it!

If you established the fact it has no AR or sapphire you can almost be sure this is the lite version which shouldn't cost more than $170. So you should better accept the $100 he is offering you!!!

Josh states it has a Valgranges copy movement

Looks like a regular A7750 to me!

Glad it worked out. Hope you learned from it so your next rep purchse will be different.

PS: NEVER, I mean NEVER show your rep to an AD!

and it was agreed that i have to accept the pictures of the actual goods before he can send it, and he did went off the procedures.

If this is true you are a 100% right.

he told me that whatever on trustytime's website is whatever he can get too i look at trustytime website and realise it is perfect. i thougt that was what i will receive.

A rep is NEVER perfect. Don't forget these dealers have 100s of reps in stock. Of course they will photograph the most perfect one. So it was smart of you to ask for actual pics of the watch you were going to receive.

now i will have to receive the watch to see it for my self.

Good idea, don't go jumping to conclusions. But rest asure that this model is known for it's sloppy lume markers.

i will post picture of it myself when i receive it.

Looking forward!

But is there anyway to remedy this lume issue?

Yes and no, you can have it relumed and I've seen the work of our master The Zigmeister on this model but even he didn't come close to the lume on the real deal (no offence Zig).

What the hell are you guys taking about? This model DOES have the stamped 'B' on the side of the bezel. Only it can't be seen on the pics because it's located on the left of the pearl (between 10 and 11). The pearl is somewhat off on this model but in real life it looks very good. All these models have lume issues so it can be expected that some hour markers are off. If you would have done some research you would have known all of this.

Mark is right for not taking it back!

This IS a replica. For perfection buy a genuine!

AR is ridiculous! What's the point of a scratch proof crystal and then applying a fragile AR coat on it?

All for the looks ... Rolex is smarter than that

That is a pretty bold statement considering the new A7750 is pretty reliable

MAN, 'they' can say whatever they want. I bought more reps with an A7750 than you can imagine and let me tell you. 8 out of 10 have problems. The A7750 is only reliable after servicing and the costs of servicing just doesn't add up to the price of the rep... so it's a loose-loose situation everytime!

ones that come out in reps are often crap used movements with problems or are just asian copies.

I'll pick those over the A7750 any day!

The Aquaracer is a [censored] to size. I had to make my own tool by sanding down a jewelers screwdriver so thin it fitted the hole in the bracelet (and the tube inside). Then a small hit from a 3kg hammer and voila.. out comes the pin LOL.

Look HERE.

Well, probably you have tried this before.

1.- Try to lubricate the bottom part of the hammer.

2.- Try to bend it up. Howeer, this is a bit dangeorus.

Francisco.

Thanks Francisco. When you are referring to the bottom part are you referring to A or B? And when you say up would that be bending it towards the dial side or towards the rotor side?

IMO it seems something is jamming at A. Beneath the auto-wind bridge.

Thanks!

What's the point of wearing a rep and admitting it? I never get that... ALWAYS LIE ABOUT YOUR REP. Eighter that or buy a Swatch/Seiko or the gen counterpart. By admitting it is a rep you not only embarrase yourself but also down-grade your rep from $300 to $50. Cause that's the price that is asscoiated with a rep. Sure, 10 years ago when there were only Canal Street POS reps .... but with the current super reps there is no reason to be honoust anymore, no one will ever tell it's a rep!

Do you think that it'll be repped?

I hope so. I would trade my Skyland for this one in a heart-beat. Unreliable A7750 or a ETA28xx? .... no competition there!

No insights? Anyone?

There are plenty of reviews which show a photo of the buckle. Do a search!