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Rolexman

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Posts posted by Rolexman

  1. I greased all the seals on my BCE and it's perfectly waterproof. Swam with it, dived with it (3m) and held it in a powerfull jetstream. No problems what so ever.

    My experience is that when you grease and check all the seals, press the crystal (by hand) and thighten the case back it's perfectly waterproof. For god's sake a $50 Swatch is waterproof 5ATM and it doesn't even have a screw down crown nor case back.....

  2. And here is the amazing coincidence.

    I opened a watch today, and voila, it had a VX12E in it! ( It was a Pulsar- "same stable")

    So I was an instant "expert", ( although I had copied the spec sheets into my archives)

    So time spent yesterday, was time repaid today... in spades.

    And the next watch after a couple, had a Seiko version VX32E, so I gained a few more minutes, 'cos I knew where to look!

    Just a wonderful tool the net! ( Not to mention some great cross reference charts I have)

    Offshore

    Great story! So you see, when you help out people you'll get rewarded in the end. This is the proof. B)

  3. Don't know this one at all.

    Sometimes, just sometimes, you may need to screw the crown off the stem, and pull the movement out with the stem still attached.

    Alternatively, pull the crown to the handset pos, whilst carefully watching the back of the movement; if you see something move, your release will be there, or close by.

    Will go for a little hunt, and see what I turn up.

    Offshore

    Well back, with maybe an answer.

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/messa...26gt%3B%26gt%3B

    Seems like I may have been on the right track. When you pull out the crown, a setting lever "pops out"

    Hope this helps.

    Thanks a lot Offshore. It worked! I really appreciate your search!... due to my lack of technical knowledge I couldn't have done it without you! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

  4. Oh man...question was if the guy is pushing his sales with images of a real deal?

    Better post your question more clearly next time....to avoid this sort of miscommunication. My comment about the Rolex movement was because I presumed you were a newbie, giving you have 8 posts in your name (no offence)....Didn't want to make it more complicated then it is.

  5. I have just received my seadweller 1:1 from Andrew. Whew, what a service. Ordered on 29 October and Delivered on the morning of Nov 1.

    It is my first replica watch and boy I am impressed. I know you all experts talk about the rehaut/bezel and level at which the crown is placed. Of course a replica is going to be a replica after all. I have a gen Rolex DJ his and hers for my wife and myself. It cost me

  6. How can we go about getting replacement parts for the breitlings just like Ofrei.com and Omega? I want to replace the Bezel as the pearl bugs me :)

    Forget it! A gen bezel won't fit as the bezel assembly is entirely different from the rep's. The rep has a click-on bezel (the screws are just for looks), the gen is screwed into place.

  7. I have a gen BCE and also a rep BCE, and the dial on the rep is not 1:1 if by "1:1" you mean perfectly duplicated. It's close, but not identical. On the gen dial, the ticks around the 15 minute marks (1 minute, 14 minutes, 16 minutes, 29 minutes, 31 minutes, 44 minutes, 46 minutes, 59 minutes) are shorter than the other ticks. On the rep, they are all the same length. This is easy to spot and an instant tell if you know to look for it. Also, the numbers on the subdials are too fat on the rep. In fact, all the print on the dial is finer on the gen than on the rep. The rep looks good by itself, but next to the gen it's quite obvious that the dial is better quality on the gen.

    I know I'm being nit-picky, and it is indeed a very good rep, but the idea that you can't tell the difference is just not true.

    I have the same graphite BCE and let me tell you, there are much more obvious tell signs. For instance, the red 'Automatic' writing is way too bright on the rep. On the rep it is sort of red/ orange where the gen is deeper red. Second the subdial markings on the gen are all silverish. This way, when the light hits the subdials in a certain way the numbers look dull but when the light hits them directly they look more crisp (like our reps) because the silver markings reflect the light. When it comes to the dial these are the two most obvious flaws IMO......

    My 0.02

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