Bansenshukai

I came across this on Ebay. I found it interesting and figured someone here might make use of it, maybe. Here's the link: Submariner Kit

I, for one, am in total amazement that you were able to do the modification you did. That's freaking awesome! Did you learn to do these things on your own, or did you attend some horology course, etc?

Note: Before answering I will disclose that I have not opened any of the watches I will describe in my answer. So, I can only go by what the watch seller provided in the website description and what I ordered. My first DSSD was the one with the clone 3135 movement. It ran perfectly and kept an average of 6 seconds per day. I kept this particular watch for about two months. The only thing was that it had the "incorrect 10" bezel and it nagged at me. But, I ran (between 4 and 6 miles) with that watch, and took it to the gym with no rattles and no issues. Needless to say, it was very reliable while I had it. But, again, I only had it for two months. I sold it. Then, I got the ETA movment in another DSSD with the correct 10 bezel already installed. This particular watch keeps an unreal accuracy of 2 seconds per day. My gen Omega SMP, or Rolex Explorer II do not keep 2 seconds loss per day. So, to be honest, both watches turned out great.

Can anyone tell me where I can find a plain, solid (non see-through), non-branded caseback for a 44mm Panerai rep? I just recently purchased the Pam 288 from a member here. The watch is in great condition, but it has a see-through caseback that is certainly not what the gen has. Now, the gen has some very specific marking which I don't think I can find a caseback of anywhere (I've tried). So, I'm willing to go with a plain caseback for now. Any ideas? Thanks in advanced.

I just ordered a Hublot Big Bang Ceramic in black color from Joshua and I'm awaiting its arrival. I promise to post some pic and a short review when it gets here and let you know. It was ordered about a week ago, so I figure it'd be about another week or so before I see it (I'm in CONUS). On a side note, I finally got my wife interested in reps and she picked out a nice Rolex GMT Master II, Two-tone (black and gold) with ceramic bezel. So, I'm actually looking forward to see her rock that one! But, the great news is that I got her into reps. Bujajajajaja (rubbing hands together accompanied with an evil laugh). Lastly, I'd like to add to what Lani has written regarding our dealers on this board. I'm personally partial to Joshua (Perfect-Hour) because - although a bit more expensive - the man always comes through. I'd rather risk an extra $50 or $100 on a rep, than risk receiving a crappy rep from a dealer that will later not fix the situation. So far, since I've dealt with him (starting in 2006), Josh has ALWAYS done the right thing. I highly recommend him.

I have a feeling that if we were to add up all of the movie critics in the world (those that actually do it for a living and publish their findings on well known media outlets), we would not come up with a number large enough to impact Hollywood if all those movie critics never went to see a movie again. However, what they say and write does impact the movie industry greatly. They shape perceptions and push the industry to evolve. I think we work in a similar way. The truth is that most folks that buy a replica on the street, or off a site, probably have no idea about most of the details we labor over. In fact, most customer service reps at most ADs throughout the world don't know the level of detail that many of us take for granted on any number of watches. I should know: I have been at ADs in Japan, Quatar, Dubai, New York, Florida, South America (various countries), etc. So, if we are not that consequencial, then why has the rep industry evolved to where it has now, particularly since 2006? The answer is likely that the little bit of knowledge that leaks out of here makes it to all kinds of mass media and social media over time. After a while, the word spreads and a lot of people find out a little of this and that. But, since the rep manufacturer does not know what the next customer will demand (one guy, a better bezel pearl, another AR coating, another a correct font on the date wheel, etc.), they are just better off replicating the item as close as possible to the real thing. We may not the best, nor the most lucrative customers. But, collectively, I bet that we do have an enormous impact on the rep industry, whether we realize it, or not.

Scotty, My DSSD "Ultimate" version from Josh (with "correct 10" bezel) came with a domed crystal flush to the bezel. Before that, I had the version with the incorrect 10 on the bezel and it was essentially the same way.

The best website for what you intend is http://www.bestswiss.com. Those guys are absolute worst of the bunch. They almost got me around December 2005 ... and then I was "rescued" when I found RWI and, much later, this forum. I got them to refund me too. But, it was absolutely difficult.

This was manufactured when Invicta still put out quality time pieces about three or four years ago. Lume shot. Modifications were: Subdial hands painted red (were silver, like the rest) and C3 Super Luminova added.

Enjoy!!! And, don't break it! LOL.

My friend ... you are an artist!

I appreciate the fact that you are trying to save me and my marriage!!! LOL. Thanks, brother. I was just hoping someone had some experience with these types of watches being that the Hublot rep was all the rage when they first landed.

Simply amazing work! Thanks for taking us through the process. The end-product looks great.

There are way too many responses here for me to sort out. Thanks for the support, guys.

My wife saw this watch on Josh's webiste and just fell in love with it. I have no issues as far as purchasing it, but I have no experience with watches with crystals (faux diamonds) on the bezels. I'm affraid these will just fall out or something. Should I just go with the plain white ceramic version, or do you think this is safe to purchase? I'm fishing for opinions. Thanks a lot guys!!!

Josh has the "correct" bezel. I do not know if it's the best, but he does have the right one. The only snag is that the pearl is not as good as what comes originally with the rep. But, it's ok. I suggest that anyone getting the "Ultimate" Rolex DSSD get an additional ceramic bezel and an additional bracelet, if they can afford it. It's a great rep, but, the ceramic can shatter with sharp impact and the bracelet has a pretty interesting weak point on the bracelet clasp that can snap off with a fair amount of pressure. There is a thread already on that on here somewhere.

I actually started with gens myself. At one point, I had several. Then, I discovered this rep hobby and found far more depth in it. In the effort to acquire that rep which was most accurate - as per the gen of its kind - I had to learn about movements, build materials, the history of the different time pieces, the history of the various brands, about the balance between form and function and so forth. I probably would have not had that keen interest if I only stuck to gens. Mainly, if you have a gen ... well, then that's it; you got it. The time I essentially realized that I no longer had a NEED to purchase new gens was when I purchased a Rolex Yachtmaster (Swiss ETA Mvt) and the watch kept time to COSC standards with $4750 USD Rolex Explorer II. The cost of the Yachtmaster? At the time, $220 (2006). Since then, I've had it relumed and re-polished. It is one of my most priced watches and, four years later, it still keeps time to COSC standards. And, yes, it is a rep. My current DSSD rep maintains time with a loss of just 2 seconds per day! It's not the norm, for sure; but, the gen DSSD costs about $9000 USD. My rep was just under $500 USD. Don't get me wrong, gens are awesome. I just reached a point when I realized that for what watches did - tell time - I was no longer going to part with thousands of dollars at a time when I found the rep hobby so much more fun.

I wonder, would a jeweler by able to put that back together if it were to happen to me?

Someone I know recently purchased the Rolex DSSD "Ultimate" V5 from one of our "Cartel" dealers. It's an excellent rep. Well, just the other day, while at work, he had it on a bit too tight and when he twisted his wrist to pick up a heavy box, snap, the DSSD just fell off his wrist onto the floor. Luckily, it fell on its side and did not damage the crystal or bezel and the movement seems unaffected. When he showed it to me, the "Glidelock" was clean broken at a portion that attaches to the curved part that has the word "Rolex" inscribed on it surrounded by some artistic lines. Upon looking at it, I just thought, "Well, it is a rep, after all." But, when I got home, I researched the issue and found that his actually has happened to gen owners of this type of the clasp. Of particular interest was a 10 page thread on the Rolex forum where a gentleman had kindly provided close up pictures of the mishap. He claims that he was just wearing it normally - perhaps a bit tight, I bet - when he flexed his wrist, it snapped in the exact same spot as my buddy's rep DSSD clasp. It turns out that Rolex simply used spot welding on a very weak and crucial part of the bracelet. Imagine this happens to you while diving; the watch would be gone! Anyway, I provided some pics that actually come from the original thread on said forum. Here, you can notice where the gen watch clasp failed. On the rep, it failed on both weld areas. You can see the area that indicates a spot weld on the detail enlargement picture to the right; essentially a crater is left behind. [Note: The pictures above are all from the gen Glidelock clasp, NOT the rep.] This a diagram from Rolex pertaining to the Glidelock clasp design.

LOL. Just for that, I'm going to check out your section and look for leather jackets. On topic: Chuck Norris is one of the most accomplished human beings on the planet and certainly, one of the most descent human beings to walk on said planet. When I was much younger I had the priviledge to spar with his protege Chip Wright. Chip not only had an uncanny resemblance to Chuck, but he also fought very similar to his mentor.

Something interesting happened with this version just this week. A buddy of mine managed to drop his watch on a tile floor and he wrecked the "Correct 10" bezel that it came with (as he had purchased the "Ultimate" DSSD with the "Correct 10"). Well, since he didn't know what to do with it, I took the watch and told him that as soon as he ordered a "Correct 10" bezel insert, that I'd replace it for him (based on what I've learned from you guys). Anyway, I removed the broken "Correct 10" bezel from the watch and discovered that the modification that is done so that the bezel fits properly is NOT done to the ceramic bezel insert, but to the bezel ring itself. Essentially, the bezel ring is apparently put on a lathe and it is grooved a bit deeper where the "Correct 10" bezel protrudes. Thus, they don't have to grind the bezel insert down, as we would. Instead, they work the bezel ring so that the bezel insert simply fits. This made matters a bit easier for me as all I have to do now is wait for his replacement bezel, swap out the pearls, and voila!

That, or the comments finally got to him. I saw earlier today that someone put comments essentially covering the very points we've been talking about here.

Well expressed, Lani.

Oh, heck no. I loved that first one. 6 seconds a day is insanely accurate. I have a gen Explorer II that looses about 5 per day. But, I when I receive the second one, and it lost just 1 second per day (which is freaking incredible), I didn't have an issue selling the first one.

I remember that on 2007 and 2008, this was a topic that would come out around December of that year. I was looking forward to reading it this last year, but I have not been able to find one using the "search" button. Was this even discussed? Anyone know where I could find the topic. I'm planning on increasing my rep collection in the next few months and this would be a very useful guide. Thanks. PS - Is the Rolex DSSD "Ultimate" (I don't remember what version it is) destined to be among the best of 2010? I originally purchased the one with the "incorrect 10" and then sold it and purchased one with the correct bezel. Well, the first one lost 6 seconds per day, consistently - even after being heavily used for two weeks (long distance running, gym, shower, pool, etc.). The latest one I purchased - with the correct bezel - is keeping incredible accuracy: It has consistently gained one second per day (it's the ETA movement). I just wish they had individual serial numbers.