The more epoxy, the better and stronger the bond. The J-B Weld epoxy is literally as strong as steel with a tensile strength of 4000psi up to 500 degrees F. So, IMO, get all the glue off and create a strong joint! I'll probably pick up a kevlar strap also... I like the look. I like the bracelet also, though.
That'll work, too. I've never gone wrong with J-B Weld and it's readily available. I figure if it can be used to repair engine blocks, there can be no doubt it'll be a success on watch bracelets.
OK, so if I said 3 million not 6 million, I'm safe under the law? My understanding is that I'm not. This was an atrocious crime against humanity to be sure, but forbidding the discussion of historical facts and figures is still over the top.
Well, the non-SELs look different from the top too, but the hollow vs sold midlinks are impossible to see on the wrist for sure. They don't feel right in the hand, of course, but who cares.
When I first saw your watch in a different thread I thought it was a gen P serial (2000-2001). The gen dial and gen insert with SELs will do that. Couldn't tell if it was a transitional dial or not from the pics, though, so I assumed not seeing the SELs.
BTW, with the SELs, what you've got is an early 00's look.... You'll want to find a non-SEL bracelet to complete the 80's/90's look.
For what it's worth.
Yea, the dial is more noticeably off than the hands to me with the fat 6 9 and 12 numerals that are the signature of so many PAM reps. It would be nice to have slightly shorter hands anyhow, but I certainly wouldn't break the bank to do it.
I don't care too much because it is in that so called 98% range of accuracy after a few easy mods. I just picked up a lumed and serviced 2893 063 that includes the Palp crown and an upgraded cyclops for a great deal. Once I fit the Palp crown, slap on the Jimmy Fu CG I have lying around, and get my Finepics datewheel it will really give my 196 a run for its money in the wrist time department.
I'm looking for recommendations on a watch winder. I want a 4+ winder that isn't going to break the bank but isn't going to last for only 6 months. It should be quiet, and it would be nice if there was additional storage in the case as well. Recommendations would be appreciated.
Does anybody have experience with these models?
http://www.watchwinderstore.com/watch-winder-tw46a201.htm
Thanks!
It has been documented. The bracelet does break there. I haven't read anything about it being glued, though. My thought is to go to Home Depot and buy some JB Weld. Use a toothpick or something fine to apply it to this joint after removing whatever glue residue is there. This is stronger than solder when dry.
Well I will concede that the Seawolf is probably double sided too. I just didn't feel as though it was noticeably more glare resistant than the single sided samples I received from my AR guy last week.... I guess that's a good thing though!
... how on earth do you remove a link from the Breitling Seawolf Ti ?!? So one side of the bracelet has a screw which comes out easily but is about 2mm long and doesn't really serve any purpose. The other side has a pin which seemingly needs to be pushed out through the hole where the screw was removed. But my tool won't go all the way into that hole. Do I need a special tool?
Here is the tool I have:
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: OK my AR guy (love this guy and his amazing responsiveness) says that from run to run this type of AR will undergo slight color shifts anyhow. He says it'll be very subtle and you'll need to be looking very hard to spot it. He also says that the color temperature of your ambient light will make the coating look slightly different as well. So it might not look quite the same under, say, shaded sunlight as under indoor incandescent lighting. And he is almost certain that this is going to be the case on big ticket gen watches as well, because he thinks they're undoubtedly using the same type of AR - especially on any crystals coated on both sides. There is one other possibility but he says that type of coating is much more costly, is greenish, and only provides ~0.5% better reflectance properties on sapphire substrate. So, highly unlikely.
OK. I'm not sure I can really detect the difference between purplish and bluish when the hue of the AR is so subtle to begin with. Then again, I'm color blind too.