millemiglia

Am I wrong (probably it has been discussed before) or the gen has the REF. number engraved where the holographic sticker used to be? What about this rep?

Is this a new mod or the classic 2836-2 one, that puts the "Date changing"(at midnight) out of phase? (I have an Explorer II CHS and this problem is kind of nasty...)

Since the Bezel is used in conjunction with the GMT hand (and the 24 "numbers" on it are "hours" for the second time zone), it "should" have 24 clicks Something nobody's mentioning: how bad is the inner ring engraving? On andrew's site it seems nice, but on Joshua's pictures seems UGLY bold black(?)

Now now, are you still pondering about getting a gen???

I saw a TV show once that talked about how genuine luxury bags are assembled by underpaid illegal aliens in Italy and France for around 100 euro and then sold for 3500 (in working conditions similar to Rep factories in China). I wouldn't be surprised in seeing official Rolex factories in similar situations (that would explain all those mis-aligned date wheels, uneven lumes, and general lack of QC...) As for the rep factories themselves, what By-Tor said in one of his reviews (and here) is incredibly true: how can they nail a complex design like the Aquaracer at their first attempt and still make these mistakes on the Nth generation Rolex Replica? Specially considering that they got those problems right here and there (TWB,MBW,NOOB-Factory,Joshua's Special etc.) but never altogether in the same watch

Indeed, My mistaken interpretation of By-Tor's guide might have come from the fact that the wrongly positioned Lug-holes on Joshua's rep are quite a pain, I used to think they were there because that dial "was to be coupled with that type of case", and we now learn they could have made an almost perfect out-of-the-box rep with a standard noob case...(why make a "retro" version at all?! )

Could it be that producing watches in different factories is causing this mess? (where's their QC? ) At any rate, we now know that this type of dial doesn't come only for older GMTs! Will you update the complete guide (it's not a "retro" dial anymore )?

I thought only old GMTs with lug-holes had that type of dial! So, it disappeared and then they put it back in production?

I just stumbled upon this auction on the bay, where a guy is selling a weird fish: Note the GMT's two written like this "||" The guy says it's a D serial from 2006 and as a matter of facts the watch he is selling doesn't have lugholes on the case (here's the link: ebay auc.). What I'm pondering is, wasn't this type of dial a rare beast only released shortly a long time ago? (if I got By-Tor's guide correctly) What exactly is he selling?

But it should not be visible! Even the Noob dial has a factory lume job if you think about it, my guess is that a well done lume job should not be seen (unless in the dark of course ) , anybody wants to share their thoughs on the matter?

Incredible work! One last tell remains, just put the watch under sunlight and then observe the "lume" intensity and color in a dark place (ie: did you superlume everything? ) that would be the last nail in the teller's coffin

Does anybody "have an Opinion" about this watch reliability in the long run?

Thank you for your help!

Hello everyone, If I buy a 2836-2 from Cousins, would the included date-wheel align correctly with the window of a Gen 16610 dial? Thank you in advance for your help!

Hi, I was going for a similar project but were afraid of the alignment of the noob datewheel with the gen dial window: are there any problems? (and if there aren't, is it the same with standard non-LV noobs?) Thanks for the help!

maybe I tried the wrong acetone, the one I used at first (fingernail type) didn't do a thing to the paint. I then used a mixture of Nitro and Acetone and still I needed a metal needle and a lot of time. A friend of mine suggested absolute Nitro as it melts even plastic (go figure paint, absolute nitro is used to remove car paint when they do paint jobs). The important thing is to avoid both scratches and 3 hours hard work...

Indeed, still I wonder if a better solvent/thinner would have saved me from 1 hour of hard work :cc_confused:

After sometime I finally got to do the work and here is the result (sorry for all that dust): It wasn't that easy though, it took 1 hour of work not 5 minutes and no qtip worked (I had to stick a needle in, and work every letter one by one!!) The wrong thinner maybe?

I have the same watch (by the way I'll post pic of the cleaned back after this post ) and love it in SS, but last saturday I was at a TAG AD and they had a Black Dial on rubber model which looks great. Blue on black though it's a no no IMHO...

Thank you all. Of course this post was never meant to suggest this or that seller, only reliability of the movement (which seems pretty nice). I fell in love with this watch when I saw TTK post though hence the picture...

I remembered your announcement, it was just to show members which watch I was talking about and I did say it was your picture (could be advertisement for you ). Anyway your photos are yours and I respect your decisions about them.

Where then? (where did I get that from O_o)

100% Reliable then? I still have to decide from whom, I know you ship from Taiwan right?

Hi everyone, I would like to buy a Ferrari GT rose gold identical to this one (picture borrowed from TTK): I am worried about the movement though (asia 7750 28.800) does it work fine on this configuration, or like in Daytona reps it's a ticking TIME BOMB? Admin Edit: Picture has been removed as requested - TT

It would be easier, but the numbers engraved on the rep bezel are wrong, why ditch the gen case and bezel?