millemiglia

UPDATE: I received confirmation that the glass/crystal too is a replacement with no AR. This watch probably got trashed pretty bad, who knows what happened (everything else is gen). A good Idea now would be to get an ETA rep with double AR and steal the crystal, caseback and bracelet, but it is even more important to know about compatibility in advance since it costs more!

They look so similar that I would be tempted...(I wonder for example if the caseback of the new "Super-SeaDweller" would fit a gen considering that both bezel and crown fit the REP perfectly). Someone who has opened both the Rep and Gen might have an idea...

The warranty is expired anyway and he wouldn't certainly throw the old caseback out of the window , If you think about it he would end up with a Gen case, dial, hands, crystal, movement and (very well made and new) Rep bracelet and case-back. A new watch basically. What you say about price is true, but it would still be better to know in advance... (anyone? )

Hello, A friend of mine recently bought a used GEN SOSF, he knew the case-back (and bracelet at that, which by the way is also broken) were scratched, and he thought he could get rid of these scratches with some polishing/dremel work, the problem is, they are far worse than he thought and the Breit logo on the back has a damaged wing that will never get back to normal. At this point I suggested to buy an "asian" rep (the same as the ETA version only with the asia movement and no AR) and "steal" the caseback and bracelet. The problem is, will they fit the gen case? (just a simple swap). Thank you in advance for your help!

I had to do with the nearest hardware store for now, they game me a powerful solvent used to clean "Graffiti". I'll try it out tonight, fingers crossed

Told you I'm a noob! When I called the hardware store yesterday they told me they have a powerful solvent that mixes pure Acetone and Nitro (???) that sould work...

Since I had it at home I tryed Acetone first (the kind used for nails) it didn't even remotely work!! Not even a taint of black on the q-tip/cotton bud!!! Is that normal? Tomorrow I will try some ultra powerful paint thinner from the local hardware store... My question is:is it sufficient to soak a cotton bud in these solvents to work on the inking, or should I detach the case back and submerge it in paint thinner completely (and leave it there for hours)? That balck inking looks extremely sturdy... :cc_confused:

WOW! You wrote a full tutorial!!! I once asked tips on re-luming and every body played "hush-hush" "secret-secret" ( ), I would certainly love to read a tutorial on that too. This should definitevely be pinned in the How to section!!!

I don't know why, but although I searched all the sellers here and the whole internet for a gen instert, there is none to be found, and yet everybody here seems to source them without problems (but when you ask where did they get it...well...let's just say a fish is much more talkative... ). Care to tell the secret? PM me without hesitating!!

Indeed, I must repat that there is no need for papers to convince people, if your friend doesn't know Rolex than he will believe, if he does, no papers can save you...

It would be nice to see a picture of the watch without the crystal installed...

Thank you guys, I'll go for the paint thinner and see what results I get...

I still think this auction is a nonissue. He doesn't say it's original and he admits there were compatibility issues and that those were solved through modding the "pieces" themselves ( not just the watch, clever wording indeed). The fact is, you cannot proove such trivial matters to people that understand nothing about replicas, unless you meet with them with several watches in hand (for comparison) the FIRST of which should be the ACTUAL watch for sale here. Otherwise it would be quite pointless, what if its a custom made case that has nothing to do with the above mentioned one? Without the actual object in hand we could argue for years (and ebay likes the fees anyway...). At least I feel lucky, since I know where to get great stuff for the right price!

last time i checked they weren't selling latest generation papers anywhere...

That is something I would like to know:what shops sell it, which brand should I go for? For Pix: my problem with removing the case is that you lose water-proofing (if there's any). It is not sufficient to re-close the case tightly, a new perfectly compatible gasket must be installed (and the old one tossed away). If I can avoid that it would be nice, otherwise there is some extra work waiting for me...

A broken one is the best option (if you know how to repair it...)

Looks near perfect to me! How did you polish the side of the bracelet?

nice suggestion! The fact is I heard someone else did it with an abrasive paste so I guessed it's the best method... Did anyone actually used acetone on watches? (by the way, the back is full SS so a cotton stick with acetone could work even without removing the case-back?)

Super Fake!

Just the opposite here, brushed is the (mine at least ) way to go!

There are different OEM manifacturers so "guaranteed" is a big word...(some milling might be required...)

For the price it's just incredible (although I have to disagree with By-tor on this one, Tag owners WILL notice), and it even has something more accurate than the pricy one: the lettering on the back is not inked! I actually started a post on how to get rid of it, if you want to add your suggestions the whole community will be grateful

Hi everyone! I was wondering how to get rid of the "inaccurate" black inking on the back of the Aquaracer. I know I need some kind of abrasive paste, but being a noob at this I don't know the following: 1)What kind of paste 2)which brand 3) where to get it (as in:what kind of stores/shops feature this kind of paste) Any help would be much appreciated!

Indeed. Let's keep our fingers crossed for a EU based seller then!