richard591

Hi. Sorry for the late reply, but only just spotted it.

When I first talked to him he had no problems doing any kind of work to a rep. He's a long standing watchmaker used to working on most types and I'm sure would assemble a watch for you if you send the parts. Just give him a ring and run him through what you need.

He's just fixed a date change problem on an A2836 movement for me and was going to source and fit an ETA2836 in to another watch until I changed my mind.

Good luck.

Hi Bill

Just wanted to say thanks for your input to my recent post on removing dial and hands on one of my DSSD's.

When I got down to changing the movements over and having watched ssteel's video, of course my date wheel had an overlay fitted. Therefore, instead of the relatively simple "drop in" by aligning the notches next to the spring at around 9 o'clock, you can't see them with the overlay because the diameter is smaller at the centre, nor can you see and re-align the spring. The overlay masks both.

Consequently, I had to remove the spring carrier, fit the date wheel and then replace the carrier. Quite simple, just a bit more fiddly.

Anyway, all worked perfectly and my date change anomaly is now fixed.

All the best.

Richard

Hi ssteel.

Not sure if you spotted this on Saturday. Am I correct that ETA 2836, as in yr video and A2836 are pretty much the same in changing the date wheel?

• Saturday at 09:08 AM
• Report

Hi ssteel.

Many thanks for your comments on my recent post on removing hands and date wheel on A2836 movement.

Have just watched your video on changing the date wheel, which was very good and straightforward. The movement shown is an ETA and I assume it's exactly the same for the copy A2836 in my noob V6s DSSD, or are there any differences in the layout or sequence?

Regards

Richard

Hi and thanks for the advice.

Although I've posted this today, I've copied it direct to you as I'm not sure how often previous posts are read after they've been replied to. So, appreciate your help.

Hi Matt. Thanks for your comments. Have sent this direct, as not sure how often posts are re-read after answers are give.

Hi and thanks for the input. Have copied the current message below direct as not sure how often past posts are read after answers are given.

Hi Ninga, thought I would share this now you've decided to buy the DSSD D-Blue.

Firstly, if you go to my thread on "regulating the A2836 movement" (it's a couple of places below the one on the noob DSSD), you will see that apart from regulation I also commented on doing a waterproofing job on the case. I have done this very well following the previous thread by "gioarmani" posted on the 1st August 2009. When you've finished reading this, suggest you read that also.

So, this afternoon I decided to have a look inside the noob to do the same. First thing I noticed was that the back was not very tightly screwed down at all, in fact when I put the die on the back I could turn it with my hand. Therefore, first piece of advice is "don't jump in the pool with it yet". Just as gioarmani says, it wont be waterproof yet. Still, don't panic , it gets better. It may simply be they forgot to re-tighten it after regulation.

On taking the back off I noticed the following compared to the other DSSD black.

1. Much higher quality finish.

2. The two piece back is the correct profile as the gen.

3. Unlike the black DSSD, the noob didn't need any micro fettling of the gasket groove on the inner part of the back - the titanium bit on the gen.

4. The movement seems to be a high quality gold plated affair and is marked "25 Jewels"

5. On taking the winder shaft out and inspecting the seals it has the 3 seals like the triple lock gen. These are :- outer tube (visible when you pull winder out. Inner tube (which shaft passes through) and inner crown which tightens down onto end of winder tube. Gioarmani says in his post that sometimes with rep's you only get 2 of these and the inner tube gasket is somtimes missing. Not the case here.

So, I was very happy and took the opportunity with the back off to carry out minor adjustment/correction of the timing.

Now, it would be worth your while to do the same so as not to risk your lovely new DSSD getting water inside it. If, like me, you have all the correct dies, screwdrivers and a watch case clamp/mini vice and you're used to doing this, then it's a couple of hours enjoyable work one afternoon.

If not and you don't feel comfortable with doing it yourself, then it's worth spending a few quid giving it to a good watchmaker to do for you. The important thing on re-assembly is to use the silicone grease on all the gaskets. I also greased the threads and the chamfer on the case back to aid tighening down.

If you want to do it yourself, but don't have the Rolex back dies, then make sure if you order some (usually China) that they include the 36.5mm die which fits the DSSD. Many don't and only go up to the size die that does the Sub.

Also, If you don't have one of those nice little yellow plastic watch case vices which are on e-bay for about £8 and want to buy one of those also, the standard screw supplied isn't long enough to let you open the vice jaws enough to accomodate either a Sub or DSSD case. No matter, it's a standard thread (either BSF or Metric) and you'll get a longer one at your local "nuts and bolts are us" or DIY store.

Remember, if you do it yourself, you don't need to tighten the nuts off it when putting the case back - back on. The grease will help you get it good and tight and it's never going to see 12900 metres, as won't any humans I know!!

Hope this is helpful

Richard

Hi GenTLe and thanks for your comments on waterproofing.

I have another question which you probably know the answer to regarding the accuracy of the A2836 movements.

As previously mentioned I bought a DSSD - Black some time ago which started off at -15 seconds per day. After wearing it for two months to allow it to bed down that's improved to about -9 seconds per day. This was sold as a swiss ETA 2836 movement, but when I get the back off I expect to see an A2836 clone to be honest. No matter, it's all good quality and the watch is performing very well. I will be looking to get it running very slightly fast.

I have now taken your advice and ordered a DSSD D-Blue noob A2836 from Intime and (if the chronometer QA photos are to be believed) this is currently running at +8 seconds per day. After bedding down I guess this could get a little faster.

So, after all the running in periods are over it's my intention to get them as accurate as poss and that's my question - just how accurate can you reasonably get these replicas?

By way of example My genuine Submariner (as you would expect) runs at between +1-2 seconds per day. I adjusted my Omega Speedmaster pro myself and also got that to +1 second a day, which is not bad at all for a watch of that type. So, is it poss to get the A2836 movement close to that?

Looking at the adjustment screw it's fairly primitive/simple and I assume a very small movement can produce a fairly large difference. However, the Omega also uses a similar method (small vernier screw) but after a few weeks of fiddling I got it to the +1 second/day regulation.

Any comments on this subject would be greatly appreciated. I have the back removal dies on order, together with a case clamp to hold it all steady in my hand vice.

Once again, thanks for your previous comments.

Regards

Richard