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klocklind1

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Posts posted by klocklind1

  1. Thanks for that VERY intresting info !

    So You mean that if I buy a saffire crystal from DSN for 100 $, I still do NOT know if it will fit my 0117/1950 case ???

    I thought he only had ONE sort of AR coaded saffire crystal for that model ( 0117/1950 case 1950 ) ???

    The OLDER generation crystal that You have , is that one with AR coating ?

    BTW I read that some here on this forum bought a plexiglas crystal from OFREI and that IS the crystal they had in the original 1950 model !!??

    I got DSN Fiddy xtal fitted on both 127 rep type cases, the one that opend from the back (standard) and another that opens from the front by removing the bezel. Saying this, even DSN xtals aren't all the same, and provide diferent dial distorsion when installed. The older model was much closer to gen xtal in the sense that provided almost a 1:1 distorsion when looked at both top down or slightly from the side, angled.

    The one you don't want is the one that visualy "squashes" the dial numerals and indices towards the centre of the dial, the one you should look for is the one that 'breaks' the numerals when looked at from the top. The break point on a good xtal should also be visible when you look at the dial at sharp angle.

    after owning 6 different Fiddy iterations in the last 3 years, I eventualy settled on the one that was combined from diferent parts, like EddieLee dial and case, DSN hands and older generation sapphire xtal.

  2. BUT still is the problem with the datewheel that can not possible be at the same place as a eta 2839-2 movement when the movement is only 17 mm !!!???

    @elprimerozen: does your 2678-2 clone look real like the 2836-2 clone does? Is it visually obvious that it's a clone or you really have to know what to look for?

    I'm pretty confident that the 2678-2 used in wm9 v2 sub is gen ETA. If anybody knows how to tell between a gen and a clone 2678-2 like what Chris did, pls share it so we can keep wm9 honest. I myself have a watchsmith check every 2836-2 to make sure it's gen ETA. Once my watchsmith found a couple clones for me, I told my supplier don't do that again. He's been honest ever since.

    Shundi said it right. Neither 2836-2 nor 2678-2 is correct. As long as it's gen ETA (hopefully more precious and even on the dw) it's as good or better than 2836-2. I'll post pic how the dw overlay works with this smaller movement.

    -bk

  3. Thanks for that info !

    You always have the right info ragarding the pam crystals, thank You !

    The next thing to consider is if it it worth buying a "spare" crystal from DSN just in case for 100 $ ???

    All genuine PAM non-plexi crystals are sapphire.

    All genuine PAM sapphire crystals are single AR coated (on the inner surface only) after B series (1999).

    Genuine PAM AR is almost colorless, not blueish.

    DSN crystal for 127 will fit any standard 127 rep case. But non-standard 127 rep cases do exist (less than 5% of cases, I would speculate).

    Non-DSN sapphire crystals are subject to spontaneous exploding like glass crystals.

    Never heard of a DSN crystal exploding.

  4. Hi there !

    I am very happy with my Fiddy ( Pam 127 ) but I am not sure what kind of crystal it is on it ?

    It is suposed to be a saffire one ( 0117/1950 case ) but I do not know ( mine is NOT AR coated ! ) .

    Are ALL crystals that are made of saffire ALWAYS AR coated ( You can see that the crystal is a little blueish on the top of it ! ) like on the one from Davidsen ( DSN ! ) ?

    I have been thinking of buying a extra spare crystal ( because af all reports about exploding crystals, and I will keep it for a long time ! ) from DSN ( just in case !!! ) but it cost 100 $ and I do not know if it is worth buing one extra just in case ?

    So the last question is :

    Will the crystal from DSN ( davidsen ! ) fit in a 0117/1950 case without problems ?????????

    Is davidsen the only one ( Pure time also seems to have a crystal that looks the same as davidsens !? ) to buy a saffire crystal from ?

  5. I used lock oil for my bezel on a LV sub and the bezel did not move at all before that treatment.

    BTW the best oil ( if You want the oil to stay on the bezel/bracelet for a little bit longer ! ) is motorbike grease on spray which is VERY sticky and would NOT come off so easy.

    Seawing machine oil is a little to thin so it will come off quite easy I think !

    I have to admit that the recessed insert thing was an inspiration by BKs posts in RepGeek over his BKmariner. Well, BK, i actually used the WM9/PT Sub for this project.. maybe the pics are showing the crystal too high...

    I have to say one more thing from this experience: When i received the watch i was really disappointed about the feel of the bezel. The feel while turning it was s**ty... There were two very stiff points and the rest was very very flimsy (excuse my english). That , i thought , would not be forgiven for a modded watch...

    But the "miracle" happened : When i disassemble and then put all things together (the retaining rings and that strange spring under the bezel that gives that tick) everything changed! The fell while turning of the bezel is exactly like gen Solid, clearly 120 ticks... That is my advice then: Even if you dont fell like hard modding.. try to disassemble and assemble the watch back ... As i said before no dealer will care about your watch more than you. You have to be (if possible) the QC-Man of the watch..

  6. Hi there !

    I saw on puretime:s site that he had the new GMTII ceramic with a swiss eta 2836-2 with the RIGHT HAND STACK ( but not in stock ) !

    Do anyone know if there is a eta 2836-2 movement that has the correct handstack, and where You really CAN adjust the hourhand in the right way without all the problems some of us has had with the chinees movements had !

  7. When You look at there website, they say that it is genuine swiss ETA 2893 and 2836 movements when it is clear that it looks like it is ASIAN movements in both of them !!!!!!!!!!????????

    Is it SWISS ETA movements in those watches ?

  8. If You have a Asian eta, You can NOT get spareparts for it !

    And I am sure of that it will last longer with a SWISS eta movement than a Asian one !

    An Swiss ETA 6497-1 movement will last "almost" forever if lubricted well !!!!!!!!!!!!

  9. The green color IS darker on the genuine and the printing text on the dial is shaper on genuine and it is VERY often the printing is the main difference when You compare a replica nad a genuine.

    Because it is much more difficult to make thin text on the dial.

    Also the screws is thicker at the other end on a genuine.

    But it is a VERY nice watch

    Good morning all:

    First let me say please excuse my poor photography skills. I am not a pro at taking pictures. Anyway, I just received my gen Sumariner LV two days ago and at first I was a little disappointed :huh: I also have the Euromariner version of this watch and could not believe just how very close both watches are. They look almost identical! The feel of the Gen is a little better on the wrist, but this could be explained by the fact I know it is the real deal.

    My disappointment has faded and now I could not be happier with my new watch. As a bonus I no longer have to worry about wearing the Euromariner and being called out. It is that good! The gen will stay on my wrist most of the time. But now I have a beater for when I am out hunting, fishing, doing yard work, etc.

    Let me know what you think. See if you can distinguish which is the Gen!

    post-11445-1223119449_thumb.jpg post-11445-1223119524_thumb.jpg post-11445-1223119576_thumb.jpg post-11445-1223119626_thumb.jpg

  10. To me It looks like the text color ( on LH dial ) is to Yellowish compared to the genuine that is MORE white !

    @elisix

    I've started this project w/ a std swiss 6497-1 rep.

    Wanted super lume, so I contacted Vac for some Vacluming. Hesitant of sending the watch across the Pacific,

    which lead me to just buy a seperate set of Vaclumed dial and hands from him.

    Then I meet this Little Hero guy...

    He has perfect dials, so I just use my Vaclumed back plate and swap it with a LH dial.

    Wanted the fully modded movement w/ bridges and engraving as well, but I doubt he will make additional

    products of these... except for some ppl whom will be knock on his door to give him all the money they have

    for one of 'em. LOL

  11. I would love to see pictures of it.

    Do You know if there is a "NOOBMARINER" LV dial on it ?

    Is the bracelet OK ?

    On his pictures it seems to be a little gap between the bracelet end lug and the case ???

    Hi all !

    Who has the best "out of the box " Rolex submariner LV of our dealers ?

    Is there a "Noobmariner dial " for the LV modell ?

  12. Thanks for that !

    I will try it !

    If you have a 036 without the serial numbers on the lugs you may actually have a 036 type dial in a regular 176 / 177 case. Probably well worth a try if you can get a sandwich dial easily. If it doesn't work then you can always sell the dial again.
  13. OK

    But my case is NOT with an engravement on the case, ONLY the caseback !!!

    So I do not know if I want to buy a separate 111 sandwich dial and try it to that it will not ???????????

    Agreed, I have the same caseset with my 172, there's no way you can fit a sandwich dial in there without serious work, still Its a easy spot as its the only rep Ti case I have ever seen with stamped OP & serial #'s on the case.
  14. Thanks for the info.

    It is still a replica so I think You NOT be sure when You mix different cases and so on.

    Not always ...the 036 from Ruby / Joshua (with fat crown and flatter CG )has a much thinner dial and when I attempted to fit a 177 sandwich dial in the case it doesn't allow the stem to line up with the tube + the case clamps cannot be tightened...

    Best

    FGD

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