klocklind1

Hi there!

Is there anyone here that knows how to take away the cyclop on a submariner and glue it back again ( if it is misplaced or something ! ) !

Your is also swiss ( swiss geartrain and balance but with asian bridges !!) to but the shockabsorber in the middle on Yours has something called "novidiac" and that is absolutely the most common one on "swiss" 6497-1 movements, in fact it is VERY rare to see a swiss eta, E-series ( on the replicas ! ) with incablock shockabsorber !

The other one has a shockabsorber called "incablock" and is a little more expensive and the real pannys always has that in there eta handwindmovements.

Do anyone know why my incabloc looks different? This should also be "swiss"

Thanks !

What did Vac write on package ?

Was it a GIFT ?

I recently got hit with a

I am waiting for a backcase for my UPO ( which looks better than the UPO one ! ) from him !

But I know that it is ONLY the omega loga in metal that people wants from it and that the dial generally is worse than the UPO one in some places like the datewindow and size of Quarter markers is to short !!!

Hi,

Question:

I have bought a UPO pumpkin and am wondering what the difference is between Silix his dial and the one in the UPO? ( i know about the better Omega-logo but is Silix-dial `Perfect`?

Because i want to replace it. Or is the Logo the only perfect thing in it?

Hope that you guys will help me out.

E.

Thanks all for Your answers!

The "case" is this:

I have ordered the WM9 LV sub from BK and he recommended that have the text "watch spare parts, value 100$" and that it is a GIFT on the package !.

If the postage to ship is 25$ then it would be kind of strange to say that the value is about the SAME amount, so perhaps the risk of the customs will be intrested in the package will be less when have the value 100$ than about 25$ ????

What do You think ?

He says he have almost never had any problems with watches shipped to EU!

Last time I ordered from china with EMS then I had to pay almost the same amount in tax and toll fees as the value on the package !!!!!!

What do You think is the best way of sending a watch from the US ?

Has anyone here ordered watches from US to EU recently ?

Have You had any problems with the customs?

I have read that a lot of people is afraid of buying a watch from the US because of the risk getting the watch taken by the customs !!

IS there a BIG risk to buy from US????????

That is a nice Fiddy !

You have to fix the pin on the crownguard and file it flat !

Look for on the search function!

That IS a swiss eta because I have never seen an asian movement with that big sized balance wheel.

On the asian the balancewheel is most of the time smaller and has a 21 000 beats/hour and the swiss one has 18 000 b/h!

Some swiss do have incablock shockabsorber that IS correct!

Nice lume too!

Wear it well

If a LV sub replica can be as nice made as this one I would by hundreds of them!!!!!!!!!!!

That is as much genuine LV sub as it gets !

I only wanted to post a good picture of the LV sub !

What is your message ? do you have something to sell ?

the dial looks correct, thats all. May be its a picture from a gen... who knows.......

Here are some nice pictures of the LV sub ( for You that has ordered Your sub from WM9 LV to compare it against!!!!!)

Thanks a lot Freddy for Your advice!

Do You use that tool ( You showed ! ) and press it down with hand force or do You use some kind of press ( crystalpress!!)

Is it not important to press vertically down so You do not bend the axle ?

I use a staking set bit, but anything with a similar shape that fits around the pinion's shaft will do

Press fairly hard until you hear the pinion bottom onto the plate. It is impossible to explain how hard is too hard, but somewhere between not hard enough & just right the pinion will slide down the arbor & lock into place. Be careful to have the teeth on the adjacent wheel lined up with the cannon pinion's teeth as you press it down or you may damage them.

Hi there!

I have taken away the cannonpin on my eta 6497-1 movement and want to put a longer ( 3,15mm ! ) one there instead!

But I need help because I do not know how to press the new cannonpin back again!

I know it is fidded with friction but how hard must I press it back without distroying anything ?

Would be VERY happy for some advice!!!!!

I love to see sites like that where You can see how the movements looks inside, behinde the bridges an so, THANKS!

On a patek , vacheron or jaeger ( or even a rolex movement ! ) watch, almost EVERY part of the movement IS nicely finished!

That IS one of the reasons it cost a lot to buy!

I have the real eta cannonpin ( 3,15 mm, the longest one ! ) from Cousins and there is a big gap there ( minutehand ! )

So You say that the minutehand did need a little "skimmed off"?

About how much did You have to sand the minutehand down ?

How did You do it ?

Interesting,

I have fitted gen ETA cannon pins & had no issues with sanding down the minute, however both the 3.15 cannon pins I've had from cousins have both needed a fraction skimmed off the hands.

It could be just a fluke that the hands have longer stubs but if anyone has a gen ETA cannon pin that could be measured it may be worth comparing there heights

Hi all!

Yesterday I took apart my fiddy and where going to change the hourwheel and cannonpin for the longer ones,( 2,15 and 3,15 mm from Cousins !) BUT it was already the longer ones in it !!!??

I read somewhere here that the SWISS eta 6497-1 ( with novodiac shockabsorber ! ) ALWAYS has the longer cannonpin/hourwheel ?

The finish on the cannonpin ( the swiss one I got from Cousins !) is a lot more nicely finished ( more polished at the top ! ) than the chineese one in the watch, so perhaps it was worth buying a new one anyway!?

So now I have to grid the minutehand down a little bit to make it flush with the cannonpin !

My question is: Is it like this with ALL minutehands on the fiddy, that You have to grid the minutehand down a little bit to make it flush with the cannonpin?

Do You have to sand down the minutehand on the DSN hands to ?

GOOD thinking "T" !

Do not forget to make them in titanium as well !!

Hi friends

thank you for all kind words

i will start with the angelus hands first... for the cortebert hands need a sample

Ross and swdivad... contact me about this CG... no risk no fun ... i don

Welcome back!

I am going to order a couple of T-48 from You soon!

Hi there titanium lovers!

I have have a tipp to remove SMALLER scratches from titanium watches ( specially the pams! ) !

Use a erasuregum for ink ( that is harder than standard ones ! ) , rubb it ( in the same direction as the surface is machined ! ) on the places where You have a smaller scratch until it is gone !

Yo may have to work some time on it but IS working, at least for the smaller scratches !

Regarding the dialfontcolor !

The fiddy HAS what I have seen 3 DIFFERENT colors in the font , so there IS both greyish and White and OFF white on the font!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for that nice review!

On WM9 braceletclasp the number is M something so I think he has different numbers on the clasp???

Hi there Pam lovers!

What do You think of this Fiddy dial, regarding the dialfont/color etc. ?

It looks very nice.

Regarding the crownguard I think IF it is loocking tight then You should not do anything because there is always a risk when start working on the crownguard! My looks almost the same and my is loocking pefectly!!!!

Hi there!

Do anyone have a crystal for the fiddy ( pam127 !) for the 0117/1950 case to sell to me ?

I prefer a crystal in SAFFIRE !

I have the Americas cup modell like on the picture but without the "frame" round the index on the dial and also have both bracelets ( the two that You could get!) for it AND the rubberstrap with foldingclasp and I LOVE it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Absolutely love the 2254. I have a great rep of it and I have not even worn it (still in its plastic wrapping!). Though would love to get the non-america cup SMP 2230 .

Very tempting to get the gen 2254, I have to ask for a mate's rate.

Will let you know the asking price, b16a2.

The gearwheels are not finished as they "should" be, they should not have that much bevelled!

And the finish on the bridges are not as nice as the earlier e-series movement but that IS how the new E-series movement looks like today!

Have a look at DSN new E-series movement for the Fiddy!!!

Are the new eta E-series movement going to look like this?????????