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Posts posted by hooky
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Got it. Thanks so much! I had interpreted the position of the tweezers on the tutorial as touching the button, rather than pointing to it.
So I've got the crown off the 3719 easily. However, the movement does not easily slide out of the case--it seems anchored still in the region of the crown tube and pushers. Is there a special trick for this watch (which has the rotating inner bezel controlled by the chrono reset)? I don't want to force anything.
Thanks,
D
Hi D,
please don't get me wrong, but don't you think it is wise to let a watch smith take the glass out? I mean if you never opened up a watch, and you did not know what the chrono reset lever was and could not take the crown off, i think getting the glass out, is a little bit too much.
Probably the movement is also anchored to the watch case by 2 or 3 screws.
I think it needs some skill and the right tools to get the glass off. A watch smith can do this very easily and maybe charge you 20usd max. Saves you the risk of breaking your glass or the movement.
Just my 2 cents....
J.
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Jeroen,
you never know for sure. when the 28.8 are not available, the factory will easily put the 21.6 in. And if the dealer does not open the watch, he will not know.
happened to me with a Cartier Santos 100 Chrono.
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Hi,
once i also had this problem, when trying to get it out in winding position.
I put it in time setting position. And then pressed the release. Easily got it out.
and later also managed to get it in again.
good luck.
J.
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Hi Luca, welcome!
I am from Holland: 3-0!!!
@Plaifender: woooo... ur italian is so good.
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The tourbillon might be a complicated piece or art, but maybe it is possible for a watch smith to give the movement a good service which will work as prevention? He does not need to take apart the balance [censored] with tourbillon to clean and oil the other parts right??
Just my 2 cents..
Cheers,
J.
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Give the man some time to respond...
If you read his post he wrote that ACCORDING to his WATCHSMITH. So maybe he should let that guy look at the pictures.
And probably is Euro Timez not only busy reading on this forum the whole weekend, but hopefully sourcing nice watches for the members of RWG...
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Guys,
I posted a couple of days ago and no one responded. Now I know there has to be someone that works on these watches besides The Zigmeister. I need a new crystal for a 1950 Pam.
Help
Crystal for which 1950? What is the type. Sometimes it is more easy to just buy a new case including a glass. Saves lots of trouble and if you know how to get the movement out, it can be done in 5-10 minutes.
Cheers,
J.
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Hi,
did you get the 192 from a dealer or from a member? That one is still on my list....
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There are a few variations that I am aware of, with or without the correct caseback. However one thing is clear, only the latest version is worth buying.
This one has no decent AR, bad datemag/font, bad bezel tachometer and numeral engraving (too bold), inner bezel numerals too small, wrong dial colour and font, plus there should only be three red squares between hours markers 11-12 and 12-1, not four....
I would guess the rubber strap does not smell of vanilla either
So all in all a very poor replica, even more so when you compare it to the latest Chopard, which is, in my opinion, one of the best replicas ever made.
hooky I really hope you can return this watch, it is not in the same league as the new version..
Cheers!
Actually, the AR is very good on this watch. Even better than the AR on the IWC Aquatimers i have. Also the rubber strap smells like vanilla. (bad smell anyways, i prefer no smell at all)
Actually I bought the watch for someone else. He will not keep it, but luckily he knows someone who wants it. Lucky me...
But I saw the differences in the post of M.P. That one is perfect indeed.
Is there also a correct version of this similar:
Cheers. going to eat now. Pizza guy rang doorbell.
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Am I right in saying that the inferior version has a clear caseback and the newer one has a solid engraved one?
The one I have here has a solid case back. So that part is ok.
But yes, i also saw some pictures at dealers' websites having the open see-through caseback.
Actually, the 'inferior' version looked quite nice, but it is just not 1:1. The AR coating is amazing. I held it side by side with a IWC Aquatimer AR coating, underneath a strong lamp. And the Chopard had much better AR.
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Purchased a Mille Migla GT XL Chrono. I ordered the grey looking dial version, but i got somewhat different dial color. It looks more silver.
I hope if one of the members can confirm if this is a correct version of an existing watch or if this one is way off. I paid 400usd.
I also read the post of Lanikai:
And also saw the post of Mickey Padge: Post of Mickey Padge
Please have a look at the watch I received, picture is in the attachment. (do not know how to make a direct link)
Thanks for looking,
J.
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Better do some more reading 'vriend'
will do that buddy. thanks.
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That is not me or my partner... that is all I can say... Look also at the picture I think it is a gen... look at the CG it is too perfect, look at the DW.
Ok. The pictures are not from the seller himself. So then the seller is using pictures of a gen. Because the advertisement text are referring to a high grade replica: 1:1, sapphire, 'real' swiss ETA, etc.
So that is even worse...
I thought only Eurotimes had acces to solid gold parts of the Rolex reps.
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Indeed... looks like the same model....or is the dial ..more purple....?
These are the same advertisement with similar text which earlier were advertised under the name 'Chris' if I remember correctly
So it is a bit weird. On the one hand it is said that it cannot be guaranteed that it is 100% solid gold, but in the back door it is still being sold... Hopefully it is old stock. Other wise it really makes you think...
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I agree. But it on a vintage, thick leather strap or a SS bracelet instead. Gorgeous.
Espentan, do you have hands on experience with a SS strap on the PAM253?
That would be so great!!! Looking forward to your reply.
J.
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In The Netherlands on the auction site 'marktplaats.nl' still the 'solid gold' Rolex watches are sold for over 1100usd. I am not sure, but the advertisement surely looks like the ones Chris used to make there....
Hopefully it is just old stuck, but who knows.......
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I lost 7 watches in 2 shipments with Andrew, just in 1 month, due to customs.
He replaced all for new ones, without me paying extra. And all arrived.
You decide.
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Hi guys,
i suggest you take a look at RWG / Trading Zone / Watch collectors Galleries /
Andrew from Trustytime.com is a good dealer and the CD 2007 should cost around 315 usd. No more. with A7750, sapphire, AR coating.
depending on where you live, ask him if he guarantees delivery due to the customs.
Hope you enjoy the forum and soon become Supporters as well.
Good luck.
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Thanks.
Keith
Btw, the rubber strap of the PAM253 replica is not of a good quality. It attracks a lot of dust. Like having a dessert on your wrist sort of speak. The strap of a submersible, like the PAM187 is better. Or buy a good leather strap. Even better.
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Hi Keith,
you might look on Andrews site, trustytime.com
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1 hour is a huge amount of time to try and adjust...
You should have a watchmaker check and verify the watch on a timing machine, the beat may be out. But it's unlikely that the beat is out enough to cause 1 hour of loss... the fact that it's loosing time, leads me to think it's a defect.
Most likely, your problem is a slipping cannon pin, they tend to be defective on the 7750's, if when setting the time, you feel little to no resistance, you have a bad cannon pin. The fix is to replace the cannon pin.
RG
Thanks, i just experienced this problem on my new 400usd Chopard rep. There was no resistance when setting time. And the the was 30 minutes in just less than half a day. Setting the adjustment bar a very tiny bit slower made it run also half an hour slower. And vica versa. Will send the watch back to our Chinese friends for repair and i can even explain to them what the problem and solution is. Great!
Thanks a lot for the informative post.
Gr, Hooky
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1. Mineral glass (glass) has a green tint when viewed from the side (unless purposely colored during the manufacturing process (like the new Milgauss Anniversary) sapphire appears white or clear). This is probably the easiest way for most people to identify a glass lens.
2. Mineral glass, at room temperature, always feels cool to the touch. Sapphire tends to feel cool as well, but it does not feel as cool relative to (mineral) glass.
Totally have to agree with Freddy333 on his 2nd point.
Just came back from my watch smith today and he asked me if a certain glass was mineral or sapphire. For that he held the glass to his cheek to feel the temperature. He told me that the conductivity of sapphire is higher, therefore is less cold than mineral glass.
I guess his 'testing' method is a fast tell and no need to play around with water drops on top of the glass. And practical for those who don't own a diamond tester.
Just my 2 cents.
J.
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I had 2 F.A. Jones purchased recently with the 6497 movement.
Sold as mineral. Tested them with my diamond tester. They are mineral indeed.
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It just comes from the factories in Guangzhou where also other dealers on this board source from.
The model itself is great. Just the quality of the rep s*cks. Wish they could make a high end replica of it.
7750 stem release?
in Watch Repair & Upgrade
Posted
Sometimes i take the watch case in my one hand and very gently 'slam' it with my other hand in my palm. then it will get out. What you can also do is use a tiny screwdriver to create some leverage. Just make sure afterwards that no small particles are left, by using the small hand Bergeon blower to get the dust etc off.