sander

this is awesome Sander.

I see this method as easier to do since the only additional part (apart from the dial) would be the DW. In the DD approach you need a new movement and some serious case mods. However this DW mod won't fix the crown position.

Between the 2 methods (Dubois Depraz chrono module vs using the ETA 2892 on a modified 7750 based sec@12 donor, which one do you prefer?

Well let me start to say that they are both not easy.

The biggest problem with the DD module, was to find out how to use the chrono pushers because they don't line up. This took me hours and hours and hours and hours. Also If you don't have gen hands you have a challenge. The DD module needs a 0,90mm minute hand and 1,20mm hour hand. The rep comes with 1,20 minute hand and a 2,00 mm hour hands. Of course also all the chrono hands needs to be broached from 0,20mm to 0,25mm.

I will try to write a post about it tomorrow.

The mod with the 7750 movement was pretty much straight forward. It worked exactly as I planned. The only problem is that you have to work with really small margins. So it's really easy to screw it up.

I found it also very frustrating to sand down the date disk to 0,13 mm. No power tools here, just some sandpaper.

I think yhe most complicated part of mods like these, is to figure out what the best method is.

Also you need a lot of spare parts and you shouldn't be affright to take some expensive risks

The problem with the gen dial is that the date window is in the wrong position. It has the window about 1mm too much to the left.

To make it work, you need a smaller date disk and the date window in the movement has to be moved to the left. Is this impossible???

Recently I did a project with a Lemania 283 movement. see here: http://www.rwgforum....-my-holy-grail/

This movement is build with a Dubois Depraz chrono module on top of a ETA 2892 movement. This means that the date disk for an ETA 2892 will fit a gen dial.

Now the first question is, how to fit the smaller 2892 date disk into a 7750 movement????

First I removed the teeth and sanded the disk down from 0,35mm to 0,13mm.

Than I took the 7750 disk and sanded it down from 0,48 to 0,35. After that I glued them together and the total high was 0,52mm (so I guess the glue is 0,04mm thick)

So overall it's 0,04mm higher than the standard 7750 disk. This is not a problem.

When you install the new disk, you will notice that it will rub the date jumper plate and the date indicator plate.

I sanded them down, but unfortunately I sanded the date jumper plate a little too far. Because of this, the date jumper didn't work properly anymore.

After I made a new plate, the date changed without any problems.

After installing the extra gears to move the seconds to the 12 position, I noticed that the gap between these gears and the date disk, was big enough to have the disk freely move .

So now the date is in the right position for the gen dial.

After this I had to move the date window about 1mm to the left. The date window is attached to the plate which sits on top of the movement.

I cut it off and enlarged the hole in the plate. After removing the window, I mounted the plate and noticed that everything worked as it should do.

I also enlarged the date hole in the next plate (the one that holds the extra gears in place). So I ended up with a complete movement with a big hole instead of a date window.

Now I needed to install the cut off date window into the big hole. For this I used the thin plate which is located right underneath de dial.

I made the existing hole bigger and used some epoxy to glue the date window in the right position. After the glue dried, I sanded the plate and painted it black.

When I positioned the plate with the window on the movement, it was perfect!

Since I'm not having an extra gen APROO dial at the moment, I made one myself to see if it works.

(I knew I was going to do this mod, so before I installed my gen dial in the above mentioned project, I copied it for the exact measurements)

After the dial was finished and installed, I was thrilled to see that it worked.

So yes it's possible to put a gen dial on a 7750 movement but it needs a lot of modding.

Cheers,

Sander

Thanks for all the nice words guys

The problem is that I'm pretty busy right now and really have no time to write a story about it.

of course it will come!

And yes, it was though to make it work with the sec@12 case.....

Cheers!

Hmm it looks like crown is located correctly, a bit lower than in reps.

I am still not sure about that date wheel depth, here some gen pics for comparison:

Anyway I am VERY impressed. If it wasn't for hands that one would be really perfect. Please tell us the story. Franken made of what?

Bezel screws look great, what did you do to align them like that?

Or maybe you are just eccentric enough to put rep hands on a gen?

Trust me, depth is ok. For some reason it's hard to see it on the pics. Perhaps these help.

This one is taken before I painted it black.

That's interesting.

Dial is 100% genuine with silver number outlines and correct date window position...

Then again date wheel does not seem to be deep enough to make it genuine, or maybe the date mag cyclops is from rep with less mag power? Datefont is a bit different from what we get in reps...

Hands are rep but relumed....

Hmm, a franken?

You have good AP knowledge man!

But you are wrong.....

Nothing wrong with the date. It's deep enough but hard to photograph. I just gave it an extra try . Also the date font is correct!

Any comments are welcome...

I would buy one in every colour if they could get the movement reliable! Until then...

you mean somthing like http://www.rwgforum.com/topic/109952-portuguese-group-shot/page__p__771240__fromsearch__1&#entry771240 ?

They all still running great!

I think it's not the crown.

All the BP I have seen so far have a problem with the crown tube. (fixed tube inside the case)

Sooner or later the threat get stripped. You will not solve this with a new crown. You need a new tube for it.

Unfortunately, the dealers will not supply them. A simple and temporally solution is to squeeze the tube a little with a plier. Very very gentile.

I have "fixed" many of these problems like this.

To remove the crow (with stem) you need to push the button.

Try more lube next time. Just when you think you have enough, add more It's critical for those kinds of situations...

oh man this is great! love the movement.

I did mean a decent rep :-) not a real one lol i'd have to sell my car for that and probably my ass as well

This movement is pretty much identical, as far as I can see:

My link

no way man, not even close.

Great build man!

Today for me is my newest Frank Muller Conquistador

Really love the grey dial!

I would just have the movement completely serviced. I have 4 and after the service, I never had any problem with eighter the old or the "new" movements.

They run great!

I wouldn't spent money on graphite or DLC treatments if I were you.

I would try to find out if the hand is not loose on the tube.

If this is the case, you can try to fix it with some epoxy glue.

If this is not the case, you can try to put a very little drop of Loctite in the hand tube.

You have to install the hand before it dries of course. The Loctite will close the cap between the hand and the pivot.

(for me it even works with chrono hands)

Cheers,

Sander

What the f..k is all that crap in the movement.

rust on the screws, dirty balance wheel and stains on the movement plate?

Hmmm... if I look at the serial numbers, they both (Puretimes and Trusty) have the same.

case: 248707NX 2656

movement: 02069

Isn't that strange?

great shots man!

How big is it on the wrist when you compare it to the standard ROO?

It's crowing on me but I'm just a little afraight that it's too big for me.

The standard ROO is about the max I can wear with my 6,5 wrist

this is a GEN... my guess...

No it's not

very nice one. Can you let us know which dealer is selling it?

buffing machine will take care of it.

looks great, congratulations! i wish i could do little mods like this. my father has a crazy hours that is fun to see work. and fyi, king is my dealer of choice.

Trust me wheaton, you can do little mods like this. Does your father has the gen one or the rep one?

@ letibjorn: sorry man I have to kill you if I tell....

I while ago I saw a Franck Muller Vegas and I was really surprised about the quality of it.

The guy ordered it last year from King so I also gave it a try.

I never ordered from her before but I must say it was a real pleasure to deal with her.

For me she was very helpful and amazingly fast with her communication.

It took only 1 week to arrive but unfortunately it came with a broken crystal

I contacted her and she promised me to send me a completely new watch free of charge.

Within a week I received it and I must say that this was the best service I have seen in this business so far.

Anyway, back to the watch.

What can you expect of a $ 100,- watch?

Well first of all it looked really good. The dial is pretty close to the gen and also the case looks pretty good.

The engraving on the back is also better than expected. Nicely deep and sharp.

Uhhhh

Looks pretty good man!

Great lume on the dial. What about the hands?

It doesn't look like the hands have the same.

PS: get the cannon pin and hour wheel replaced by H3 model and you have a keeper.

I once had the same problem. It took me a while to find that one of the jewels on the pallet fork was not glued in properly.

An other option is too much oil. I know it's hard to believe but most of the time this is really the case.

If I were you, I would start all over again with cleaning all the parts.

good for your practice as well