Velasco

This is only an opinion... but from my point of view, paying the fine would demonstrate with legal documents that you tried to import counterfeit goods. And that record will be there for the rest of your life. Good luck.

Congratulations, nice piece... Love the flat S in "Zubmariner"

Totally agree... I would say the rep business: - is against the low-price watch business - gives (sort of) free publicity to the high-end brands, so in the end may be even positive for them And I think the same applies to all the rep market (bags, clothes,...)

I've seen "vanishing" bezel numbers on a '91 gen Explorer II. The effect is, well... cheap. Nothing to compare to faded bezels IMO.

Amazing post, Francisco. As always. Thank you for sharing!

Thank you The Zigmeister. The movement works perfectly when outside the case. So I reduced the pressure that the dial puts against the movement and now it works.

Hi all, I've searching the forum and found nothing about this issue... I recently swap a movement in a MBW Sub, and it runs great... until the minute hand reaches the 6 o'clock area. Then it gets stuck together with the hour hand. The thing is that the seconds hand keeps running as if nothing happened. Hands are correctly placed (they don't touch each other), and setting the time is ok, there is nothing wrong with that. Please I need some help... What would be the cause? Would it be fixable? thank you! V.

Funny to see a tourbillon with a springbar out of its place and printing errors on the bezel. But interesting, though...

Awesome contribution! Thank you Francisco, I would certainly have been one of the potential buyers.

Thank you for your suggestions. Yes, the stems are exactly the same. I have just trimmed the stem and it kept stopping. So I tried another time and now the stem is too short and the movement still stops. Could it be that the stem hole is at a different height? (I mean, 2846 higher than 2836). This would cause an "unproper" pressure on the keyless that makes the movement to stop and the date change to get jammed. I'll try to post pics later. Feeling quite stupid right now...

Thank you for your reply. The movement runs fine (date change, everything) when it is outside the case. When I put the stem when the movement is in the case, the movement stops in a matter of seconds. I'm totally lost, and love this watch. Do you please know if there is a modder I could talk to?

Hi all, I bought a nicely modded white 1680 from a fellow member a few months ago. It had a 2836 with a slight failure so I decided to go for a slow beat movement swap. I bought a brand new sparkling 2846 on the bay... and prepare the patient to the operation. Everything went fine until I assembled all together. When screwing the movement to the case, the movement stops. When screwing in the stem, the movement stops. And also the day change gets jammed. I don't know what to do! The movement runs fine outside the case. So I guess I'm putting pressure on the movement when attaching it to the case or with the stem. If this is right, then the 2846 dimensions are not the same as the 2836. Because with the 2836 the movement run fine. I hit a wall!! Please help this amateur with ideas... What I am doing wrong?? Maybe one of you found this very same problem before. Thank you! Please see attached pic of the 2846

I think the tritium pearl aging speed depends on the environment the pearl is exposed to - for instance this t. pearl from 1980 has been living on the seaside and frequently exposed to sea water... V.

Thank you Omega (and your friend...). That makes sense. Although I have to say this 593 without the circular ends are not a good idea. I had to "re-shape" them manually to keep them in place and prevent them from rotating. If they have had circular ends, they would have been sitting correctly in place. Always learning something new... The amount of knowledge in this place is amazing. best regards. V.

The price range for this movement, gen ETA, brand new, in (southern ) EU are between 50 and 60 EUR. Shipping not included. Which matches exactly with the prices in USD another members have posted. Cheers. V.

May God preserve your sight! Yes, there are two things "funny" in this 16800: - endlinks are marked 593, but without the semi-circular pieces... this is quite strange and I have never seen that. Maybe they are aftermarket, but this doesn't make sense since it seems they have not been replaced: aging and signs of wear are consistent with the bracelet (marked as VE) and case (serial 644) this means 1980 - hands have rests of luminova on them... you can see that on the seconds and on the minutes hand there are certain areas with a lighter tone of yellow (these areas glow in the dark). Maybe relumed by an amateur watchmaker? Never seen these two things before... Any of you have any hint on these?

First shoot! Then ask... Thanks for looking.

Wow... This comes just in time for me... Thank you! I'm in for a vintage "flat 3", but I'm not sure about the thickness... I guess I'll need one of each (1x0.07 and 1x0.18) And also interested in the "modern" version. V

Congratulations... Now your life has totally changed... but for better!!

Hola, si no hablas ingles te recomiendo que visites los foros de replicas en castellano... Enviame un privado para mas detalles. Un saludo, V.

Looks... gen . IMHO the Clarks crystal makes a huge difference.

Amazing pieces you've got there... A lil' more love. V

Real beauties... This matte looks very well cared, plus box and papers... that makes it a collector's item. Congrats! I found myself sometimes looking for 16800 on the web...

Well... the ROO is pure sofistication... a masterpiece of design... elegant and sporty... But I also like the accuracy of the Skyland! Thank you for your comments.

Yes, this picture is confusing. The ROO bracelet is quite rigid, so with both watches in this position, the ROO head stays a few cms above the Skyland. Cheers.