ubiquitous Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Dial side up Profile mug shots Genuine inserts- New vs. Old pearls On the wrist Diver's extensions A fun pair to have. Thanks for looking... R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Very nice pics & watches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Nice pair but 1680 is still where it's at lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikellem Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Nice pair! My choice is the 1680.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 STOP SHOWING OFF!!! just kidding, always happy to look at your work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 (edited) Hey Ubiquitious, any chance I could bother you to take straight-on shots of those so I can get a better picture of the date magnifiers on each? Marvelous as always, though. Thx! Edited September 3, 2006 by chieftang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvn Posted September 3, 2006 Report Share Posted September 3, 2006 Dial side up Profile mug shots Genuine inserts- New vs. Old pearls On the wrist Diver's extensions A fun pair to have. Thanks for looking... R Hey Ubiquitious, I would love to have a pair like yours. Mine 1665 is comming from george. Would you mind telling me how much would it cost to make them like that? and who could do the job? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 Hmmm... Cost to build is one of those difficult factors, as availability of parts is always an unknown, and the cost of such parts varies between whom you purchase from, and where said parts are sourced. Of course, another large factor in the equation is the cost of labor. If you can do this work yourself, you can cut out a large portion of the cost right there. Parts will run you plenty as it is. To give you a very quick run down on what a typical cost might be for a 1665: -MBW vintage watch $300 - $400 US -Genuine T-39 flat crystal $100 US -Genuine bezel insert $130 US -Genuine Crown (new) $70 US; (used) as low as $15 US -Genuine Tube (new) $50 US; Aftermarket Tube (new) $20 US -Genuine Springbars $20 US -Genuine End Links $75 US -ETA 2846 to correct the beat $70 - $100 US -Hollow link Oyster (gen) $800 US; (rep) $50 - $80 US Again, these are mid to high prices to be expected if casually shopping around. Some parts are incredibly difficult to source, like the bezel inserts. True genuine vintage NOS inserts with the acrylic pearl are no longer available. I wish I still had my old stash... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fellfell Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 Hmmm... Cost to build is one of those difficult factors, as availability of parts is always an unknown, and the cost of such parts varies between whom you purchase from, and where said parts are sourced. Of course, another large factor in the equation is the cost of labor. If you can do this work yourself, you can cut out a large portion of the cost right there. Parts will run you plenty as it is. To give you a very quick run down on what a typical cost might be for a 1665: -MBW vintage watch $300 - $400 US -Genuine T-39 flat crystal $100 US -Genuine bezel insert $130 US -Genuine Crown (new) $70 US; (used) as low as $15 US -Genuine Tube (new) $50 US; Aftermarket Tube (new) $20 US -Genuine Springbars $20 US -Genuine End Links $75 US -ETA 2846 to correct the beat $70 - $100 US -Hollow link Oyster (gen) $800 US; (rep) $50 - $80 US Again, these are mid to high prices to be expected if casually shopping around. Some parts are incredibly difficult to source, like the bezel inserts. True genuine vintage NOS inserts with the acrylic pearl are no longer available. I wish I still had my old stash... Sorry, WHERE is possible to but MBW vintage and parts ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Hey Ubiquitious, any chance I could bother you to take straight-on shots of those so I can get a better picture of the date magnifiers on each? How are these? I'll get you a better shot of the 1680, as I realize it's not the best. For now... Here is my old MBW 1680 with the exact same crystal to give you an idea of the mag power... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star69 Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 the perfect couple i envy you the problem is : what more do you need now ? maybe an 1675 ? 1655 ? or switching over to PAMs ? Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Thanks, Frank. I've got other projects in the works... More frankens, as usual. A 1675 is definitely on the list... Have some others in mind and in progress... More to come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2005SUBMARINER Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 UBI you & tribal gots to have the best rolex collection on the forum i didnt know that the ETA 2846 could be a direct swap for eta 2826 hmmmmmmmmmm maybe that will be my next project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmex Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 UBI you & tribal gots to have the best rolex collection on the forum i didnt know that the ETA 2846 could be a direct swap for eta 2826 hmmmmmmmmmm maybe that will be my next project Only difference is one or two escapement wheels (and lack of 4 jewels). I had a rep with that movement in it, and I purchased a 2824 to replace it. Instead of replacing the whole movement, I swapped parts. So I probably still have the old wheels and parts. The rest of the movement is virtually the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 The 2846 is my movement of choice for the vintage Subs. Since they beat at a slower 21600bph, they're a bit closer to the 19800bph of the 1570/5... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugwash Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 I'm glad no-one's fighting over the 16610, cos I've bagsied it! You can fight amongst yourselves for the vintage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Puggy... If the time ever comes for me to part ways with this one, you'll be the first to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyback Posted September 10, 2006 Report Share Posted September 10, 2006 (edited) To give you a very quick run down on what a typical cost might be for a 1665: -MBW vintage watch $300 - $400 US -Genuine T-39 flat crystal $100 US -Genuine bezel insert $130 US -Genuine Crown (new) $70 US; (used) as low as $15 US -Genuine Tube (new) $50 US; Aftermarket Tube (new) $20 US -Genuine Springbars $20 US -Genuine End Links $75 US -ETA 2846 to correct the beat $70 - $100 US -Hollow link Oyster (gen) $800 US; (rep) $50 - $80 US Very useful for my mbw 1680 project. Thanks Ubiquitous! Edited September 10, 2006 by flyback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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