PP Nautilus: Was it ever considered as a 'serious' diver's watch?

[TeeJay]

Just something I was wondering about yesterday, and never got round to writing, but I was just wondering if the PP Nautilus was ever considered as a serious diver's watch back in the day, or was it just looked upon as the watch of a 'corporate master'? I only ask, as, while I really like the design aesthetic of the Nautilus, the fact that it lacks a timing bezel and a diver's extension on the clasp, puts it out of the divewatch catagory in my book... Sure, it's a nice watch, obviously waterproof, but lacking in those fairly essential qualifying features... Can anyone shed any light on how the watch was viewed 30 years ago?

[dmueves]

I've actually been wondering the same thing. I'm a huge fan of diver/tool watches, but this one has always perplexed me. The new PP ad campaign, however, helps to dissolve some of the mystery for me: "You never really own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation." With a picture of a wealthy looking man and his foppish, creepy, fay looking son. Not very tool watchy to me.

In my humblest of opinions, a tool watch is designed to have the tar beaten out of it in the field and still look sharp enough (albeit abused) to wear sipping a victory cocktail after.

[TeeJay]

I've actually been wondering the same thing. I'm a huge fan of diver/tool watches, but this one has always perplexed me. The new PP ad campaign, however, helps to dissolve some of the mystery for me: "You never really own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation." With a picture of a wealthy looking man and his foppish, creepy, fay looking son. Not very tool watchy to me.

In my humblest of opinions, a tool watch is designed to have the tar beaten out of it in the field and still look sharp enough (albeit abused) to wear sipping a victory cocktail after.

I agree completely I wouldn't say that a Submariner was intended as a cocktail party dress watch (although decades of James Bond have given that impression) but they do look sharp... The Nautilus, as sharp as it looks, and, as tough as I suspect the watch to be, is lacking two things which I would consider crucial to a diver's watch, so that makes me wonder if it was ever viewed as a diver's watch back in the day

[dmueves]

Having pored over the PP site for the better part of the last hour, my impression of the Nautilus has changed subtly. I don't think they ever pushed the Nautilus as a tool watch; rather, it appears to be a watch simply inspired by nautical heritage. The case design is an "avant-garde" shape drawn from that of a ship's porthole, and given that the watch was introduced in 1976 (over 20 years after the Submariner and its marine innovations)the lack of a dive extension or rotating bezel seems to be a conscious decision in the interest of form over function.

Personally, I'll take an SD any day.

[automatico]

The PP Nautilus is an attempt at a sporty watch, much like the APRO, both known to be fragile in use and pricey to maintain. Both designed by Gerald Genta.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2009/3/8/first-generation-patek-philippe-nautilus-the-ultimate-sport.html

Imho, they are 'Country Club watches' for dinner and dancing. Stay off the tennis court, golf course, handball court, and out of the pool.

They might make it through a couple hard sneezes and a dash through light rain but that's about it...imho.

Eta replicas are probably a lot tougher (except for the dash in the rain).

Early Nautilus had a LeCoultre movement.

http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium631686780396906210

Later models claim to have an inhouse movement.

Btw, I have owned an APRO and a few PP, no Nautilus.

I hate to say it (not really) but I do not take PP, AP, JLC, etc seriously.

I guess I'm not a fragile watch guy.

[freddy333]

Imho, they are 'Country Club watches' for dinner and dancing. Stay off the tennis court, golf course, handball court, and out of the pool.

They might make it through a couple hard sneezes and a dash through light rain but that's about it...imho.

Eta replicas are probably a lot tougher (except for the dash in the rain).

Ditto.

[txcollector]

The Nautilus was a response from PP from the trend in the 70's of cheaper very accurate quartz watches. Patek saw sales going down and they had to expand the line from their traditional Calatrava and complications to more sporty watches.

The Nautilus collection kept with Patek Philippe's elegance and sophistication so the idea of a dive bezel or any other obtrusive dive watch feature would not go well with the brand.

The original Patek Philippe Nautilus watch became the innovative trendsetter in the category of sports timepieces. The timepieces of those days were traditionally produced from gold, while Nautilus featured steel unconventionally oversized and uniquely shaped case. The design was based on the universal shape of a porthole found on virtually all maritime vessels.

The Nautilus design is based on a 3 piece case held by four small-sized vertical screws that seem to be threading into the distinguishing flanges of the case. The vertical screws in comparison to the ones that go through the case into the back offer one more advantage - they provide more exterior space for movements.

In addition the Nautilus had many dive/sport features for its time: Rated at 120m/393ft with a screw down crown protected by a crown guard and a tightly sealed case.

The fact is very few divers actually put their high end watches to normal everyday uses. Unless you are going below 300m constantly it's unlikely you will be wearing your Rolex, Omega or any other high end dive watch (I certainly do not ).

[TeeJay]

Thanks for all the feedback, guys, I'd hoped this might be an interesting discussion I guess the Nautilus is more of a comparison in function to a DateJust, rather than a Submariner This was the feeling I'd had about the watch previously, but I remembered seeing an old advert, where someone was wearing a Nautilus over the sleeve of a wetsuit, and that was what made me wonder if it had indeed been intended as a dive watch, rather than just a 'smart all-rounder'

[txcollector]

I guess the Nautilus is more of a comparison in function to a DateJust, rather than a Submariner

I don't think I agree with that. The DateJust doesn't have a similar style crown/CG and case.

Although I agree the lack of a timing bezel reduces the usefulness of the Nautilus during a dive it is nevertheless a watch that you use to time your dives about 100M. I can't say the same of the datejust.

I remembered seeing an old advert, where someone was wearing a Nautilus over the sleeve of a wetsuit

With that bracelet that would be hard to do however the Nautilus can fit under the sleeve. Most dive watches are too bulky to fit under the wetsuit and require rubber straps or complicated mechanisms that don't work so well in bracelets.

[TeeJay]

I don't think I agree with that. The DateJust doesn't have a similar style crown/CG and case.

The style of the case is not really what I was referring to with that comparison, but rather that the Nautilus and the DateJust feature hour, minute, second hands, a date window, and nothing else...

Although I agree the lack of a timing bezel reduces the usefulness of the Nautilus during a dive it is nevertheless a watch that you use to time your dives about 100M. I can't say the same of the datejust.

Why do you say that about the DateJust? Does it not have a comparable depth rating?

With that bracelet that would be hard to do however the Nautilus can fit under the sleeve. Most dive watches are too bulky to fit under the wetsuit and require rubber straps or complicated mechanisms that don't work so well in bracelets.

I suspect that the sleeve of the 'wetsuit' was probably the thinnest available at the time, if not even something rigged up just for the purpose of the advertising photos, much like how there were rumors of Sony demonstrating the 'pocket friendliness' of the Walkman, by having them demonstrated by guys wearing shirts which had larger than average pockets I quite agree, a Nautilus could go under the sleeve of a wetsuit, and most dive watches are too bulky to do that, but that's surely because on a dive, it is essential to be able to easily see the watch unobstructed, rather than having to push back the sleeve

[freddy333]

From my Patek catalog - the depth rating on the Nautilus is 60'-120', depending on the particular version. I think that pretty much answers the question.

[txcollector]

From my Patek catalog - the depth rating on the Nautilus is 60'-120', depending on the particular version. I think that pretty much answers the question.

strange, most references say the Jumbo rates at 120M not feet.

[txcollector]

Why do you say that about the DateJust? Does it not have a comparable depth rating?

but not the same type of crown/CG. It would easy to knock off that crown and get water inside the watch.

I suspect that the sleeve of the 'wetsuit' was probably the thinnest available at the time, if not even something rigged up just for the purpose of the advertising photos, much like how there were rumors of Sony demonstrating the 'pocket friendliness' of the Walkman, by having them demonstrated by guys wearing shirts which had larger than average pockets I quite agree, a Nautilus could go under the sleeve of a wetsuit, and most dive watches are too bulky to do that, but that's surely because on a dive, it is essential to be able to easily see the watch unobstructed, rather than having to push back the sleeve

I agree. My statement did not make much sense

Again I think any Patek is just a very expensive piece of style. Even if it suitable for diving I'd not put $25K under water.

[TeeJay]

but not the same type of crown/CG. It would easy to knock off that crown and get water inside the watch.

That's very true. Of course, the original Submariner was lacking in crownguards, as is the VC Overseas (and that was the point I raised about the VCO when I reviewed it)

I agree. My statement did not make much sense

Again I think any Patek is just a very expensive piece of style. Even if it suitable for diving I'd not put $25K under water.

This was ultimately what my question related to, as if the Nautilus was ever actually seen as a diver's watch, or simply a 'nice watch which could get wet'

[freddy333]

strange, most references say the Jumbo rates at 120M not feet.

Oops. You are correct. Metres, not feet. Still, Patek states -

'In its permanent quest to master new technologies, Patek Philippe has also demonstrated inventiveness and aplomb in the arena of sporty elegance. With the goal of redefining the term [sporty elegance], evidence was soon presented that perfection and casualness could be an ideal match. It all started in the mid-1970s. The mission was to create a collection that would be both refined and robust enough to withstand the adversities of everyday life with poise. It would, to be sure, also have that special charismatic touch that epitomizes the spirit of all Patek Philippe watches. The result: The Nautilus.'