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Something seems off with this 1675


Ronin

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My gut instinct tells me something is not quite right here, despite the paperwork, etc.

After looking at the dial of another from the same year, and the VRF dial pages this auction is just not sitting right with me. (This would be a grail watch of mine, but I am not in a position to buy - just browsing however)

Also, what is up with the $500 second auction for the bracelet because of eBay's terms. WTF?

Rolex Bracelet Marked "7836" with endpieces marked "380"

Clasp has been previously replaced.

BRACELET IS NOT INCLUDED WITH THE SALE. IF YOU WANT THIS

BRACELET, I HAVE TO LIST IT SEPARATELY WITH BUY IT NOW FOR $500

(TO AVOID PROBLEMS WITH EBAY'S FEES POLICY)

http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=170492485188

Am I crazy or is this cool?

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For a minute there it looked as thought the hour "mercedes" hand had a big chunk out of it, but I see that it's just the shadow from the second hand.

Based on what you shared in the thread from Jojo last week Ubi, wouldn't the Mk I dial have a flatter bottom to the coronet logo?

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Wild. The Mk I dial is kinda awful IMHO. If I handed that to someone, I would expect them to say rep.

The correct dial for that year, the "P" in perpetual should line up/start with the "L" in ROLEX, and the "R" in Oyster should be centered undet the "O" in Rolex. Aside from font/keylining/ and other details.

So this watch is a swap job?

And WTF, why would he sell the bracelet seperate???

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I agree with flex, the 'ROLEX' in that dial is way too fat. I'd figure it for a redial.

All text is too fat, what i find strange is the second marker track is oval. The markers touch the rehaut @ 12 and 6, while are spaced from the rehaut @ 3 and 9. Whats up with that?

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I still feel this dial is fine. Redialers do not typically get these kinds of details correct when repainting:

untitled.jpg

All text is too fat, what i find strange is the second marker track is oval. The markers touch the rehaut @ 12 and 6, while are spaced from the rehaut @ 3 and 9. Whats up with that?

Typically, the edges get rubbed when installing/casing the movements. Since the movement and dial has to be rotated to get the movement screws fitted, this is a common occurrence.

IMG_4597.jpg

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Thanks for clarifying.

And agreed all details do match, al stuff in the right place. Except for the boldnes of the white print and lack of refinement.

{EDIT]Guess you are right on the photo analomy thing[/EDIT]

Anyhoo al these "R O LE X" type dials look funny from a esthetic point of view IMO.

Edited by slickdick
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Even though this doesn't look like a redial, I don't like it personally. I'd opt for the sharper, thinner most often seen MK1 dial print. Because, if for no other reason, you can rest assured that you're not the only person who will question this one.

You have summed up my feelings exactly.

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Sorry didn't check this thread for a long time. In addition tot he problem listed above, I think the case is over-polished. look at the shinny round lugs. also there appears to be some blemish appearing on that dial. The movement (if it is still working) & caseback need to be checked carefully.

Flex

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