Martyd3 Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Problem solved ... maybe The consensus is that weak button springs cause the divers deployant to self-deploy. With that being said, stronger springs should solve the problem. I found this while looking for a source of small springs. http://garagegunsmit....php&f=33&t=268 So, I started a scavenger hunt. First I found a mostly empty can of compressed air. Tore into it. I think the fumes are toxic, btw. Great spring, but it was too big. Then I tore apart a couple of ball point pens. Right size, but not strong enough. Found another can of something ... half full. I think it was Pledge. Got yelled at by wifey. Kept looking ... found a bic lighter. Don't tear into this one unless you are sure it's empty. Yes, I now know this first hand. Low and behold, it has two springs! One for the flint and one for the plunger. The plunger spring is a beefy little guy, but too big. The flint spring looked about perfect. It is slightly wider than the clasp spring (you really can't tell from the pic) and its pretty strong. I cut two that were slightly longer than the clasp springs. I popped them in and they seem to work perfectly. It takes more force to push the button and there is a much more satisfying click when you move the deployant. It definitely stays put now. I guess the proof will be if it still says put a month from now. Just in case you did not see my original post, I found this on RWI. It's very important that you file the teeth on the push button to make them more defined. http://www.replica-w...html#post598817 The small spring is the original clasp spring. The long spring is the flint spring (both ends have been cut to make the new clasp springs). Refiled teeth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marsupilami Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 cool, I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight_six Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Well done Marty! Just one small concern...what are they made of? Sweat and possibly saltwater could make them rust badly... Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyd3 Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Well done Marty! Just one small concern...what are they made of? Sweat and possibly saltwater could make them rust badly... Dean I have no idea. We shall see ... It's got to be better than spending $270 on a gen clasp Other than this problem, it seems to be well made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyd3 Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Guys, I've gotten a couple of questions about taking the clasp apart. It will come apart fairly easily if you depress the glide lock button and give it a good pull, with a little downward force at the end. You do need to remove both of the small screws to install the new springs. Depress the button while unscrewing the screws and be careful, the screws are very small and can go flying if you release the push button too soon. Once lost, you will never find them! Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard lawton Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Hi All, There is another answer that I did, instead of replacing the existing spring I put an additional spring inside the existing to increase the strength. You will find that the spring inside a bracelet/strap spring bar will fit inside the existing you only need to cut it to the right length, works really well on my bracelet. Regards RICHARD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastrmindalliance Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Just followed ThinkBachs tute from RWI (found in his V1 Vs V2 compare) and it's working perfectly now. Here's what i posted in his thread: You're a champion! Thanks for this, you just saved me $268! I Just replaced the springs (with flint spring from small size Bic) and it works a treat! Of note is that i only filed enough to round the corners down on the push button. This filing cannot be seen when reassembled. I cut the springs to about 2mm taller than the original ones when not compressed. Thoroughly recommend for your v2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwa Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 A very nice post!! i was looking for springs too for my paul picot c-type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chefcook Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 I did a similar mod to my PloProf V2 and put half a spring from a spring bar in each original spring coming with the clasp. Works great, is simple to do and to be honest my gen PloProf's clasp did not work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeromatic Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Hello im usually a rolexman but have recently bought the v2 ploprof and think this is an amazing replication i had problems with the clasp coming undone and put some oil on it as the buttons were not going back to there position freely but i have a problem the clap divers extension sometimes slides out is there any fix for this? as i said i am mostly with rolex (subs) but when a friend came into my workshop wearing a gen ploprof i had to try it on then i was hooked! and decided to get the v2 , im hoping to take some photos of the gen next to the rep this im sure as already been done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyd3 Posted November 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Ummmmm, did you read the posts above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OI812 Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) I bought my V2 from Marty and after a few weeks the clasp began to slip pretty badly. I simply took my Dremel and CAREFULLY deepened the teeth (which I think he'd already filed a bit) and it now locks tight. Looks and, most importantly, functions exactly like a genuine clasp now. Edited December 5, 2010 by OI812 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastrmindalliance Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Anyone had any luck getting the V1 clasp apart to re-spring it? The V2 was easy but for the life of me i cannot get the V1's clasp apart. Any tips very much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srekveld Posted November 10, 2012 Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 (edited) Hi All, Was facing the same problem on my new V2 ploprof. Did not use a beercan or a lighter flint spring, but simply a 5mm strip of self adhesive velcro (the soft side, that is ;-) on the non-moving part of the replica omega clasp. Is rock solid now. Pics available at https://www.dropbox....3ja1/xTPdvDeSAW Edited November 10, 2012 by srekveld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prb Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 Necro? But if anyone needs spring ideas, take the spring out of a springbar and use it along with the stock springs. All of us have extra springbars lying around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdice Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 When I had ploprof what i did was to take the spring out from those BIG lighters, the spring works wonderful for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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