New guy with questions about his new DSSD rep

[Powertrip]

I've had my "Ultimate Deepsea Sea-Dweller that was purchased through Mary with Watch International.

I'm not sure how to search for my first question and I'm getting different results for my second but..

How can I tell which rep version it is? I've read that there are actually THREE versions of the "Ultimate Deepsea Sea-Dweller" out there.

Second, while I never intend to go deep, I'd love to be able to take my rep with me for casual diving. I'm hoping to go to go somewhere this summer where I can do some basic/beginner diving once I get certified. I'm waaay hesitant to actually do this with my watch but man I'd love to if possible. Is there any way to know what kind of possibilities there are for this piece? I'm thinking like... 100-200ft.

Thanks, everyone. I'm definitely a noobie and if my search-fu has failed me, let me know and I'll go fishing for the answers.

[TeeJay]

I've had my "Ultimate Deepsea Sea-Dweller that was purchased through Mary with Watch International.

I'm not sure how to search for my first question and I'm getting different results for my second but..

How can I tell which rep version it is? I've read that there are actually THREE versions of the "Ultimate Deepsea Sea-Dweller" out there.

Second, while I never intend to go deep, I'd love to be able to take my rep with me for casual diving. I'm hoping to go to go somewhere this summer where I can do some basic/beginner diving once I get certified. I'm waaay hesitant to actually do this with my watch but man I'd love to if possible. Is there any way to know what kind of possibilities there are for this piece? I'm thinking like... 100-200ft.

Thanks, everyone. I'm definitely a noobie and if my search-fu has failed me, let me know and I'll go fishing for the answers.

I've no idea about telling the versions apart, but as for water resistance, it shouldn't be an issue. Run a faucet full strength, and hold the watch under the flow, so the full force is going on areas like the crown, around the crystal, and around the caseback. If the watch doesn't flood, try immersing it while having a bath. If it still doesn't flood, wear it while swimming. I've heard that any breaches in the case from poor manufacture, which could cause the watch to flood, tend to flood under low pressure immersions (like above), where pressure from deeper immersions would close the breaches. If the watch does flood under the faucet, just decase the movement, dry the case, reassemble, and avoid getting it wet in the future The only other thing I do know, is that on some of the earlier DSSDs, the HEV on the side moved inwards, instead of outwards... This is an obvious serious flaw (in both water resistance and replication) and in the past, people have used epoxy to seal the inside of the HEVs that go inwards. Hopefully, you will have none of these issues, and you'll be able to wear it for scuba

[Powertrip]

Thank you, my good man.

Specs according to my seller:

"MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA 2836-2 Automatic Movement, 25J, 28800bph

CASE DIAMETER: 43mm

THICKNESS: 17.5mm

DIAL COLOR: Black Dial, White Dot Markers, Blue Lume on hour markers and needles

CASE MATERIAL: Solid 316F Stainless Steel

BRACELET: SS Oyster Brushed Bracelet with New Design Divers Extension

FRONT GLASS: Dome Sapphire crystal

BACK GLASS: Solid case back with Titanium Seal, 2 piece Caseback

BEZEL: Full Ceramic Bezel With sandwich numeral insert.. Unidirectional rotating Bezel, Blue Lume on Bezel Pearl

CLASP TYPE: Flip Lock

DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position, (Set via Crown, Bevelled Edge Date Window)"

And from what I'm reading, and what you've told me, I should be good to go. I will try your 'easing into the water' method and report back!

Again, thanks.

[TeeJay]

Thank you, my good man.

Specs according to my seller:

"MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA 2836-2 Automatic Movement, 25J, 28800bph

CASE DIAMETER: 43mm

THICKNESS: 17.5mm

DIAL COLOR: Black Dial, White Dot Markers, Blue Lume on hour markers and needles

CASE MATERIAL: Solid 316F Stainless Steel

BRACELET: SS Oyster Brushed Bracelet with New Design Divers Extension

FRONT GLASS: Dome Sapphire crystal

BACK GLASS: Solid case back with Titanium Seal, 2 piece Caseback

BEZEL: Full Ceramic Bezel With sandwich numeral insert.. Unidirectional rotating Bezel, Blue Lume on Bezel Pearl

CLASP TYPE: Flip Lock

DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position, (Set via Crown, Bevelled Edge Date Window)"

And from what I'm reading, and what you've told me, I should be good to go. I will try your 'easing into the water' method and report back!

Again, thanks.

You're very welcome From the specs, I can't really tell which variant it is, as all the version so far all look very similar, with only minor cosmetic differences, and on paper, they would all 'read' as the same watch... With regards the flood testing, I would advise you to only undertake that if you are able to decase the movement in the event of a flooding. If not, you can always get it pressure tested professionally

[BGGodwin]

Pictures would help with distinguishing between the versions... It wouldn't help me, I can't tell () but there are subtle differences.

Congrats on the DSSD purchase, I just got mine recently and I love it! Let us know how the water test goes, I'd be interested to know what you find!

[josh_w]

I have taken my BK DSSD down 25 feet without any issue. I don't think you can figure it out in the sink though. I know BK does a good job reseating and greasing the gaskets which may not have been done well coming out of the factory.

As a beginner diver I'd think you wouldn't be venturing much below 100 feet. Without decompressing you can spend 7 minutes at 110 feet. Makes for a short boring dive in the dark.

[Mister Bill]

I would never dive with a rep. Get a Seiko Monster for $150 and dive with that,clank it on your tanks and the boat without worry and use your rep for the restaurant and bar after the dive. Waterproof is NOT pressure proof, you will learn that in dive class.

[BGGodwin]

I would never dive with a rep. Get a Seiko Monster for $150 and dive with that,clank it on your tanks and the boat without worry and use your rep for the restaurant and bar after the dive. Waterproof is NOT pressure proof, you will learn that in dive class.

Mister raises an excellent point... You want to jump into a pool, that's one thing. That's the extent that I'd want a rep to be waterproofed, personally. But if you want to dive 100+ feet, that's a whole different ball game.

Search in the sales threads, I think there was a Seiko dive watch for sale that never sold... Good route to go.

[asf]

If it fogs up and it doesn't flood, you might be missing an o-ring or like teejay said, faulty manufacturing

[panerai153]

I had a DSSD, the one from, long gone Eurotimz their 2010 "ultimate" . I pressure tested mine to 3 atm. and it failed. bubbles around the crystal and they were steady so it wasn't trapped air under the bezel. The construction of the crystal retaining ring, case, etc. are completely different from the reps and genuine. back a year or so ago, there were some very good posts about the DSSD (Back when it was "hot") One had several very good schematics comparing the rep to genuine's case and retaining ring crystal and gasket.I have pressure tested all my Rolex Reps and about 40% have failed. The only ones that have consistently passed pressure testing were my MBW vintages and my BK/WM9 16610, as well as a noobmariner SSD

I would seriously recommend getting yours pressure tested before you take it into water. Just because it looks like a real DSSD, it isn't. The rep factories have zero quality control, so you have no idea as to the way it was sealed, or even assembled. Another thing to consider, if you get fresh water ingress, and you can get the back off and get the inside dry, you shouldn't have any damage, or minimal damage,If you get salt water ingress, I can assure you, by the time you get back to the surface, discover the problem and get the back off you are going to have a corroded mess., Bye,bye DSSD !!

It doesn't matter how deep you go, the greatest pressure change is between the surface and about 15 feet. This is proven every dive by folks who have ear problems. You will have intense painful pressure at 8-15 feet. If you can clear and equalize the pressures, you are fine for any depth. Also if you are a beginner, I doubt you will be diving below 60 feet, and then only if you have a few dives logged. I was and instructor for 15 years, and I never took check dive students below 30 feet while they were students. I have never understood the fascination with depth. At 60 feet, you have 60 minutes of bottom time, at 100 feet less than 10, plus a decompression stop. At 100 feet, almost all the color spectrum is filtered out so everything is shades of brown, Grey and black, unless you have a dive light. Above 60 feet, the colors are visible, and that's where the interesting diving is to me. I like to take photos, so it's easier in 30 feet than 80 feet.

I would agree completely with Mr Bill, go get yourself a nice cheap Dive watch such as the Seiko Monster series. They are great watches, very accurate, and prices are way less than what you paid for the DSSD. I have three genuine Rolexes, and I never dive with them anymore. The newest is 11 years old, and I don't trust the seals and gaskets to dive with it anymore. I have a MKII Stingray and an Ocean 7 LM-7 Ploprof that are my dive watches

[txcollector]

I would never dive with a rep. Get a Seiko Monster for $150 and dive with that,clank it on your tanks and the boat without worry and use your rep for the restaurant and bar after the dive. Waterproof is NOT pressure proof, you will learn that in dive class.

I have and will continue to dive with the reps that I personally inspect, grease and test. The case construction on many of them is vastly superior to many watches in the market.

100 ft is nothing for most watches in the market. You can find Casios and other cheap watches that will be resistant to 300ft with no problem.

The issue with reps is when they are assembled there's no real QC to see if the gaskets are all greased and in the right place. Once you make sure yours are intact (not cut, bent or deformed) and they are properly greased the chances of any moisture getting in at 100ft (33 meters) is very very low.

Regarding the DSSD, I have personally replaced the crystal on my V5 and based on the construction and pressure required I'd say it would easily resist 3 ATM. The advice on the He valve is good. I'd seal that with epoxy just for safety.

[Jkay]

you can't tell them apart without photos of the dial, bezel insert and helium valve .

also, no rep is water proof until you test it. a missing seal will flood the best rep. how do you know a seal is missing? you don't.

[txcollector]

I have never understood the fascination with depth. At 60 feet, you have 60 minutes of bottom time, at 100 feet less than 10, plus a decompression stop. At 100 feet, almost all the color spectrum is filtered out so everything is shades of brown, Grey and black, unless you have a dive light. Above 60 feet, the colors are visible, and that's where the interesting diving is to me. I like to take photos, so it's easier in 30 feet than 80 feet.

I'd agree with this when you're doing open water and reef browsing but if you are into wreck diving shallow dives is not an option in most cases.

With Nitrox things get a lot better in terms of bottom time and decompression and I like wreck and night dive so carrying lights with my photo equipment is just second nature.

Don't get me wrong, I like shallow dives a lot but there are a lot of interesting creatures below 60 ft

[TeeJay]

I have taken my BK DSSD down 25 feet without any issue. I don't think you can figure it out in the sink though. I know BK does a good job reseating and greasing the gaskets which may not have been done well coming out of the factory.

As a beginner diver I'd think you wouldn't be venturing much below 100 feet. Without decompressing you can spend 7 minutes at 110 feet. Makes for a short boring dive in the dark.

As above, I've read on the forum where the subject was discussed, that a flooding is more likely to occur in shallow/low-pressure immersions, rather than at depth, ergo, shallow/low-pressure testing is the best way to ascertain if the watch is likely to start flooding, before going the whole nine yards with it... I wouldn't trust my Heritage at depth, simply because it doesn't have screw down crown or pushers, but a rep sub, wouldn't worry me... I remember the pic a member posted of a Seiko which had fogged up, so gens are just as prone to leakage as a rep...

[TeeJay]

you can't tell them apart without photos of the dial, bezel insert and helium valve .

also, no rep is water proof until you test it. a missing seal will flood the best rep. how do you know a seal is missing? you don't.

By stripping the watch prior to submersion...

[panerai153]

I'd agree with this when you're doing open water and reef browsing but if you are into wreck diving shallow dives is not an option in most cases.

With Nitrox things get a lot better in terms of bottom time and decompression and I like wreck and night dive so carrying lights with my photo equipment is just second nature.

Don't get me wrong, I like shallow dives a lot but there are a lot of interesting creatures below 60 ft

You are absolutely right, I was referring more to the beginner diver and/or newer diver. not someone with hundreds of dives and Mixed gas certification.My instructing career was before the popularity of Nitrox, Heck, Dive computers were not available when I started. you worked out all your dives with Dive tables. Way back!! Now the computers work out everything for you, including surface intervals, fly,no fly, etc.

One of the things thati nexperienced divers often fail to grasp, is a problem at 30 feet is a minor annoyance, At 60 feet it's a problem,at 100 feet it's a real problem. We have lots of folks around here that Rig dive in the Gulf , mostly spearfishing. Almost every fatality has been linked to a diver following a fish down, all of a sudden he's at 120-150 feet and running out of air, and no dive buddy in sight. Recipe for disaster.

Back to the main subject, i wouldn't have a problem diving with a rep, provided it was properly prepared and pressure tested. You have the skills to take one apart and grease all the seals, make sure the crystal gasket is tight and then put it back together and pressure test it. i believe the key to the process is after making sure everything is greased, sealed and tight, is a pressure test under controlled conditions. One, you can get the watch out the water while the tester is pressurized and keep the insides dry, also you can get a good idea as to where the water is getting in by the bubbles of air coming from inside the watch. The biggest problem with the running faucet, drop it in the bottom of the pool techniques is that if it isn't water resistant, it will flood. if it really floods, you can damage the dial, lume, etc. even though the movement can be dried out and runs OK. Second, if it floods, you still don't have any idea as to where the water got in.

[bklm1234]

Waterproofing a rep can be tricky. On a noobfactory watch like dssd or sub-c, the weakest link is the crystal. You need to even it and press it in as far as possible. Straight from the factory, it can be uneven, and/or barely staying in the rehaut. A slight pop from behind the crystal just flies out. You can guess how wr it is. But pressing and even'ing the crystal pose an entirely different challenge. The gasket can hair out, meaning strains of fiber get squeezed out from the gasket under the crystal. They look like hair or tissue paper fiber. It's super annoying and time consuming to replace and redo. I just don't know why the measurements of the crystal, the gasket, and the rehaut are so tight that hairing happens. Is it how they achieve high wr? But the assembling workers don't fully press in and even the crystals!

On the gen style subs and ym, waterproofing is a breeze. Grease the crown, tube and caseback seal and you are done. The crystal sealing is superb cause it's rolex's design. Occasionally the tube hole isn't sealed so well. You find that out during pressure testing. You just re-seal it with epoxy. Properly waterproofed gen style subs and ym's easily go to 200 meters. And waterproofing them is easy, nothing like on the noobfactory's watches, which can be so difficult and so much work.

Bk

[TeeJay]

You are absolutely right, I was referring more to the beginner diver and/or newer diver. not someone with hundreds of dives and Mixed gas certification.My instructing career was before the popularity of Nitrox, Heck, Dive computers were not available when I started. you worked out all your dives with Dive tables. Way back!! Now the computers work out everything for you, including surface intervals, fly,no fly, etc.

One of the things thati nexperienced divers often fail to grasp, is a problem at 30 feet is a minor annoyance, At 60 feet it's a problem,at 100 feet it's a real problem. We have lots of folks around here that Rig dive in the Gulf , mostly spearfishing. Almost every fatality has been linked to a diver following a fish down, all of a sudden he's at 120-150 feet and running out of air, and no dive buddy in sight. Recipe for disaster.

Back to the main subject, i wouldn't have a problem diving with a rep, provided it was properly prepared and pressure tested. You have the skills to take one apart and grease all the seals, make sure the crystal gasket is tight and then put it back together and pressure test it. i believe the key to the process is after making sure everything is greased, sealed and tight, is a pressure test under controlled conditions. One, you can get the watch out the water while the tester is pressurized and keep the insides dry, also you can get a good idea as to where the water is getting in by the bubbles of air coming from inside the watch. The biggest problem with the running faucet, drop it in the bottom of the pool techniques is that if it isn't water resistant, it will flood. if it really floods, you can damage the dial, lume, etc. even though the movement can be dried out and runs OK. Second, if it floods, you still don't have any idea as to where the water got in.

Mostly, I've found it to be the crystal. I wouldn't drop a watch in a pool as an initial test, but running it under a faucet, I've found that the flooding is normally clear on the crystal edge, and slow enough that de-casing prevents damage to dial or movement. Admittedly, not ideal, but I've always found it an adequate measure for 'day to day' resistance

[Powertrip]

Here are four pictures that I took with my iPhone. Maybe you guys can let me know which version I've got. Thanks!

[MysticalChimp]

I have never understood the fascination with depth. At 60 feet, you have 60 minutes of bottom time, at 100 feet less than 10, plus a decompression stop. At 100 feet, almost all the color spectrum is filtered out so everything is shades of brown, Grey and black, unless you have a dive light. Above 60 feet, the colors are visible, and that's where the interesting diving is to me.

Those bottom times might be accurate diving off a chart. With computers it's a whole different ball game. Most my dives go down to 80-100ft and last around 30-40 minutes. Heck, my last one was down to 130ft, I was under for 30 minutes, no decompression stop needed (I did do a 3 minute "safety stop," that might be what you were referring too). Oh, the scenery was pretty nice down there too, colors were washed out into the blue spectrum, but besides reds you could still tell what the colors were.

I have and will continue to dive with the reps that I personally inspect, grease and test. The case construction on many of them is vastly superior to many watches in the market.100 ft is nothing for most watches in the market.

+1, I have no issues taking my reps down diving with me. My cheap POrikaa has actually been the deepest out of all my watches.

But anyways back OT, a DSSD should have no problems diving down within recreational limits <130ft. Also, if you're a brand new diver, chances are you won't go below 60-80ft. The main issue though as people have pointed out is that most reps have little to no QC when it comes to seals and caseback tightening. Sure, most of them have everything, but you never know until you look. So unless you take it apart, you'll just have to trust it's put together right.

[Powertrip]

Also if you are a beginner, I doubt you will be diving below 60 feet, and then only if you have a few dives logged. I was and instructor for 15 years, and I never took check dive students below 30 feet while they were students. I have never understood the fascination with depth. At 60 feet, you have 60 minutes of bottom time, at 100 feet less than 10, plus a decompression stop. At 100 feet, almost all the color spectrum is filtered out so everything is shades of brown, Grey and black, unless you have a dive light. Above 60 feet, the colors are visible, and that's where the interesting diving is to me. I like to take photos, so it's easier in 30 feet than 80 feet.

I originally threw out the 100-200ft depth out of ignorance. After staring at my 3900m text all week, I threw out what I assumed was considered shallow. I know absolutely nothing about diving. In fact, the only reason I started looking into it was after researching watches. I found a few vids on youtube where people were in bright, clear blue water with reef sharks and thought "Man, that's an experience I want to have!" I want to be able to see things and take photos/video... I don't need to say I went a thousand meters down or what have you, but it's something I added to my list of "cool [censored] to do before deathbed" list... So thanks for the info on dive depths and such that match what I'm looking to accomplish.

[txcollector]

Here are four pictures that I took with my iPhone. Maybe you guys can let me know which version I've got. Thanks!

not sure which one but the DW doesn't have the bevel so I don't think this is the top rep out.

[txcollector]

I originally threw out the 100-200ft depth out of ignorance. After staring at my 3900m text all week, I threw out what I assumed was considered shallow. I know absolutely nothing about diving. In fact, the only reason I started looking into it was after researching watches. I found a few vids on youtube where people were in bright, clear blue water with reef sharks and thought "Man, that's an experience I want to have!" I want to be able to see things and take photos/video... I don't need to say I went a thousand meters down or what have you, but it's something I added to my list of "cool [censored] to do before deathbed" list... So thanks for the info on dive depths and such that match what I'm looking to accomplish.

definitely take one of those resort dives to see if you are OK with it. Chances are you will love it, get certified and enjoy it for the rest of your life.

[Powertrip]

not sure which one but the DW doesn't have the bevel so I don't think this is the top rep out.

Pics maybe didn't capture it, but date window *IS* beveled. My photo-fu is not strong.

[Powertrip]

Here are better pictures of my watch: