polexpete Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Hi guys, as some of you may well know i have made a couple of franken Navitimers using gen ETA movements, one 6-9-12 and one tricompax. I still have the 6-9-12 but gave the tricompax to a good friend and have wanted to build another ever since. Unfortunately sourcing the correct case became impossible and so the stem alignment was always an issue (too low) Anyway after a bit of thinking i may have come up with a solution. Pls note this is an experiment using an old case. Only time will tell if it works, need to see if the cement i used will be durable enough. Its a pictorial so here goes... first out with the crown tube... open the hole with a 2.8 mm drill done take metal epoxy put epoxy in base of the hole and lie to harden on a flat surface When its hardened enough push the crown tube in the hole add more epoxy and align then leave to harden more put movement in the case and insert stem this will ensure it all lines up before the epoxy sets completely stem lines up perfectly front view leave it to set hard overnight Okay lets see what happens, thanks for looking Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krpster Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Interesting trial. Do you suppose it might be better to try and elongate the existing hole instead of making it bigger all around? That way you are only dealing with top to bottom play and not side to side. I know it is trickier to do but if you used and end mill instead of a drill bit it might work. Either way I am interested to see what happens. Curious about the durability of that metal epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kravaff Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 (edited) Amazing work! It always fascinates me when you guys start putting drills and pliers to the watches and ruin the cases to ultimately create something even more beautiful. Major respect. Edited June 24, 2011 by kravaff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Interesting trial. Do you suppose it might be better to try and elongate the existing hole instead of making it bigger all around? That way you are only dealing with top to bottom play and not side to side. I know it is trickier to do but if you used and end mill instead of a drill bit it might work. Either way I am interested to see what happens. Curious about the durability of that metal epoxy. I thought of that but i have a small drill press but there is no way i could drill another hole so close. The drill bit would follow the original hole and snap. Stainless steel is not easy to work with. The tube and no load on it, just has to be there to create a seal (with a gasket) so no moisture enters the case, so the epoxy should work... thats the theory... Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Amazing work! It always fascinates me when you guys start putting drills and pliers to the watches and ruin the cases to ultimately create something even more beautiful. Major respect. We're all crazy... you will be too soon Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 That's a good idea. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackR Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 hey Pete...well done...R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreww Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Looks like a perfect fix to me. The Navi does not have a screw in spring loaded crown so I don't see any reason why your fix won't be a permanent one. Good work Pete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustindu4 Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Interesting trial. Do you suppose it might be better to try and elongate the existing hole instead of making it bigger all around? That way you are only dealing with top to bottom play and not side to side. I know it is trickier to do but if you used and end mill instead of a drill bit it might work. Either way I am interested to see what happens. Curious about the durability of that metal epoxy. Small diameter end mills that size have very short cut lengths, so the way he did it was correct. Even if it were long enough it would definately break because of the grade of stainless steel. You'd have to use carbide end mills and those go for like $50 each, imagine breaking one or two. I would have done it the same way. Good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxrAndy Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Good work Pete That may be a way to fit a thinner movement in a sub case, now what has a higher stem height that a 2824???? and unfortunatly a 2892 has the same stem height Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneed12 Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Is that the case I sent you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HauteHippie Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Interesting trial. Do you suppose it might be better to try and elongate the existing hole instead of making it bigger all around? That way you are only dealing with top to bottom play and not side to side. I know it is trickier to do but if you used and end mill instead of a drill bit it might work. Either way I am interested to see what happens. Curious about the durability of that metal epoxy. That epoxy is has a tensile strength every bit as high as the steel case itself. It's going nowhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Is that the case I sent you? Nope, your case is going to be the one i do next for the real deal.... then once the crystal comes back from its AR trip its off to The Zigmeister for service and hand fitting .... Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krpster Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Small diameter end mills that size have very short cut lengths, so the way he did it was correct. Even if it were long enough it would definately break because of the grade of stainless steel. You'd have to use carbide end mills and those go for like $50 each, imagine breaking one or two. I would have done it the same way. Good work. Never said it was incorrect. Nor am I suggesting that it is not a creative solution. Just throwing it out there as a possible evolution to a great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 Never said it was incorrect. Nor am I suggesting that it is not a creative solution. Just throwing it out there as a possible evolution to a great idea. Too right, always good to have ideas thown in the mix that's what its all about here. After an overnight cure all looks good. I'm gonna do the case i got from Sneed today, will post some pics later... Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreww Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 You gotta build one of these for me some day mate. I've given up hope that we'll ever see a beter tricompax rep as the model will likely be updated by Breitling any day to accomodate their in house movement. The work I have seen from you is legendary my friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 You gotta build one of these for me some day mate. I've given up hope that we'll ever see a beter tricompax rep as the model will likely be updated by Breitling any day to accomodate their in house movement. The work I have seen from you is legendary my friend! Forget it i have a day job... check yr pm and i'll tell you what i really think.... P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belixxx Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 What combo do we see on the pictures? ETA 7753 and gen dial ? I see the DW is not recessed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 and gen ETA What combo do we see on the pictures? ETA 7753 and gen dial ? I see the DW is not recessed... Yup gen dial and gen ETA 7753. That's the whole point of the exercise so a gen movement with no recessed date can be used.... Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belixxx Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Is the sliederuler gen too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 nope, case only fits the rep slide rule, fortunately they're pretty good quality on the reps... but they don't line up all the way round Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belixxx Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 That's what I was thinking... Have you ever thought about sticking with the rep dial, A7750 movement, A7753 datewheel assembly, but rep (A7750) dw ? Sounds cheaper and less hassle to me. You could also upgrade to ETA7750 anytime later for quality and still end up cheaper and less work than with ETA7753+gen dial. Just a thought. I still admire your solution though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 That's what I was thinking... Have you ever thought about sticking with the rep dial, A7750 movement, A7753 datewheel assembly, but rep (A7750) dw ? Sounds cheaper and less hassle to me. You could also upgrade to ETA7750 anytime later for quality and still end up cheaper and less work than with ETA7753+gen dial. Just a thought. I still admire your solution though... Mmmm dunno sounds even more complicated... a gen 7753 will always keep its price so not worried about the investment... here's my other tricompax, gen movement, gen dial .... no rep dial can come close and this one is a bit rough .... cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belixxx Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Is putting the DW assembly from the A7753 to the A7750 complicated? I've never done it, but was told it's a straight swap... That dial on the pics looks awesome, however if one is building a two-tone franken, the rep dial is pretty spot-on imo (could be wrong). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polexpete Posted June 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Is putting the DW assembly from the A7753 to the A7750 complicated? I've never done it, but was told it's a straight swap... That dial on the pics looks awesome, however if one is building a two-tone franken, the rep dial is pretty spot-on imo (could be wrong). Never tried it, i don't have any A7750 or 53 movement watches, and i would always leave such things to the experts... A rep dial side by side of a gen there is no comparison .... here's a gen gold arabic i have good luck with your project, pls post anything you try with the movement, interesting idea... Cheers P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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