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my budget 1675 - work in progress


Star69

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"...I wouldn't hate on the DG3804B movement. It's really not 'cheap', but instead inexpensive. It is as accurate and dependable as the converted ETA 2836-2 we get, 'Swiss' or Asian. The DG3804B has two advantages over the Swiss/Asian ETA. It is designed to be a genuine GMT movement from the ground up, not a conversion. In 3 - 5 years when a service is needed you just buy a new DG for $25usd versus an ETA service for at least $75usd from a very friendly watchmaker. To get a genuine ETA GMT designed from the ground up, the ETA 2893-2, you'll need to spend over $250usd with no real clear advantage in accuracy or durability."

I agee.

From what I have seen, DG3804B are pretty good movements and with 21600 bph, they are good for vintage gmt/expII projects. I have said before that I do not like to work on DG/NN Miyota clone movements but if they are clean and properly oiled, they will run for years. I think most of the trouble experienced with these movements is caused by being dirty and/or dry.

I did not have much trouble with the older DG models that had a non-adjustable 24 hour hand either. I still have a couple from an internet dealer who called himself 'Cal' about 10 years back and they still run fine too. 'Cal' had a guy named 'Benny' in the USA and you sent the $$ to 'Benny' and in a few weeks the watch would arrive from China.

Iirc, Sub, GMT and ExII were $100 and DJ were $55. All the DJ had Seagull ST16 movements signed 'Pusan Co. Korea...18 Jewels'.

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okay guys - i will start over with my little DG friend - tonight i will let him in the watchbox with the Swiss brothers - peace :)

great infos automatico - sounds like the older movements whould be even better for this project.

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okay inexpensive ;) but the whole "feel" is like 2 classes lower than ETA - not to mention the cheap sounds it makes while winding :)

'Feel' is an individual thing, and only you can decide what you like. The movements I've bought from Frei and Borel feel smooth to me, and the rotors are quiet. Might be clean and oiled is the key, as these are new.

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"...I wouldn't hate on the DG3804B movement. It's really not 'cheap', but instead inexpensive. It is as accurate and dependable as the converted ETA 2836-2 we get, 'Swiss' or Asian. The DG3804B has two advantages over the Swiss/Asian ETA. It is designed to be a genuine GMT movement from the ground up, not a conversion. In 3 - 5 years when a service is needed you just buy a new DG for $25usd versus an ETA service for at least $75usd from a very friendly watchmaker. To get a genuine ETA GMT designed from the ground up, the ETA 2893-2, you'll need to spend over $250usd with no real clear advantage in accuracy or durability."

I agee.

From what I have seen, DG3804B are pretty good movements and with 21600 bph, they are good for vintage gmt/expII projects. I have said before that I do not like to work on DG/NN Miyota clone movements but if they are clean and properly oiled, they will run for years. I think most of the trouble experienced with these movements is caused by being dirty and/or dry.

I did not have much trouble with the older DG models that had a non-adjustable 24 hour hand either. I still have a couple from an internet dealer who called himself 'Cal' about 10 years back and they still run fine too. 'Cal' had a guy named 'Benny' in the USA and you sent the $$ to 'Benny' and in a few weeks the watch would arrive from China.

Iirc, Sub, GMT and ExII were $100 and DJ were $55. All the DJ had Seagull ST16 movements signed 'Pusan Co. Korea...18 Jewels'.

That makes sense. The experts here recommend a full service on a watch purchased from any of our Chinese dealers for good reason.

Working on them is an adventure and not for the feint of heart! The U shaped spring under the keyless works cover can travel several yards in any direction at near the speed of light. I used a piece of tape to hold it when reinstalling. That tamed the beast a bit.

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"The U shaped spring under the keyless works cover can travel several yards in any direction at near the speed of light. I used a piece of tape to hold it when reinstalling. That tamed the beast a bit."

I have lost parts to these things that I will never see again. :blink:

If this is the U shaped spring that puts tension on the calendar index pawl located under the 'key hole' shaped slot in the cover plate over the calendar works etc...it goes in through the slot after the plate is installed.

During disassembly...after removing the cover plate, take the U spring out first thing before it goes into orbit and note if one side of the spring is longer than the other.

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"The U shaped spring under the keyless works cover can travel several yards in any direction at near the speed of light. I used a piece of tape to hold it when reinstalling. That tamed the beast a bit."

I have lost parts to these things that I will never see again. :blink:

If this is the U shaped spring that puts tension on the calendar index pawl located under the 'key hole' shaped slot in the cover plate over the calendar works etc...it goes in through the slot after the plate is installed.

During disassembly...after removing the cover plate, take the U spring out first thing before it goes into orbit and note if one side of the spring is longer than the other.

Yep, exactly right. I figured that out! I put the U shaped spring on a piece of Scotch tape so I can see through it, and install the spring through the slot. That way if you miss the slot a tad, or the spring decides it has different intentions than you have, it is still stuck to the tape.

I bet I've spent more time looking for teeny-tiny parts that go off the reservation than the time to actually install them! I am fortunate in that when my tired old eyes can't find the screw or part, my Lady friend who is a surgical nurse always finds them. She says they have to do that in surgery when a doc drops a tiny needle and stuff. And I have fun watching her search... :whistling:

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