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how do I repair this ?


marsupilami

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In the past I've just found a nice soft steel pin (sewing pin), heated it and let it cool slowly to anneal it, poked it through the hole, nipped off the extra and peened it down with a tack hammer.

Works okay, but the head isn't very smooth. I've got one on my 1665 and it works fine.

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"What size do we get? 20mmX1.5?"

Measure the od of the rivet tube and get one the same od and about 22mm long and grind it to fit...get 3 just to be on the safe side. Use the old rivet tube for a sample but still cut the new tube a hair longer, you can always grind it shorter it if needed. I use a 75mm x 25mm diamond type knife sharpener to trim tubes down a little at a time after rough cutting them with a cut-off disc in a Dremel tool.

If the rivet tube is cut too short/tight, the flip lock 'flipper' binds and will not flip...sometimes it binds against the clasp cap rivet head where it connects to the 'Z' blade. If no rivet at this location, the flipper may bind against spacer tabs made on the clasp blade or the clasp cap itself. Too loose and it slides to one side.

The 'flipper' pictured has cutouts for a rivet so if it has spacers you will also need a pair of matching spacers if one is missing. When there are no spacers, the 'flipper' usually butts against a tab made on the clasp blade. The 'flipper' may have to be drilled out to fit the new rivet tube, some do, some don't.

Install a rivet in one side of the rivet tube, install spacers (when used), then fit the tube to the clasp leaving just enough play so it will not bind. Press the other rivet in only after you are sure the rivet tube is the correct length.

It is better to press the rivet in the tube than to drive it in. Driving the rivets in will sometimes flatten the rivet head and can bend the rivet tube or cause it to swell. I use 'RoboGrip' parallel jaw pliers with the teeth removed...or you can pad the jaws with tape.

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