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Yuki 7206 Bracelet Differences?


ww12345

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Anybody know why there are two different versions of the Yuki 7206 bracelet available on the website?

Here's version one: http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/7752471.htm

Here's version two: http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/9161248.htm

Ready to buy (another) but don't know which is better. I bought back when there was only spring vs. non-spring. I wonder if version two has better endlink fit and can take gen springbars...

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The crown on V2 looks sharper to my eye.

Yuki told me this week that the max bar width is 1.8 mm. What problem would a 1.8 mm bar present in the 2 mm hole of a 5512? Would the slightly thinner bar actually work okay? Would it damage the 5512?

If a 1.8 mm spring bar would work okay on a 5512, I'll get one of these bracelets.

Edited by JJKapsberger
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The problem isn't the bar itself, it is the endpins. IIRC, the endpins are much smaller than gen lugholes, and don't fit at all. That's why you need the bigger springbar.

If you aren't faint of heart, you can bend the inner portion of the springbar holder to fit gen springbars, like I did. It is definitely scary, but it can be done. Another option is drilling out, like I had JMB do with my first bracelet.

From the gens I have been looking at, I think the V1 is more correct to the rivet bracelets on gens. I don't know why they developed a V2. :?

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I suppose you could, if you could find them. Really is just easier to either drill out the endlinks or widen them. It is pretty easy to do if you have a drill bit that is just the same size (1.8mm) as the springbar - just stick it in and wiggle it around a bit until you've widened the hole to 2mm.

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Be aware that the inner rings in the end links through which the springbars slide also hold the end links to the 1st links in the bracelet. Widening/stretching those rings will also tighten the hinge between the end & 1st links, which may leave your bracelet both weakened & ill-fitting.

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Not to disagree, but that is not the case. If you think of the end link part as the springbar holder, it is shaped roughly like a figure 8, with the opening at the middle point of the eight. Stretching one side of that eight, making one loop (that which holds the springbar) larger, you are actually making the end link fit looser. It still may weaken it, but it does not tighten the end link fit. I'll see if I can take some pics to illustrate it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Freddy documented his observations about this bracelet pretty convincingly in some earlier threads. If there is a workable solution to the problem it would be nice to see it documented.

In one of those threads someone claimed there is such a thing as a 1.8 mm bar with 1.2 mm pins, but they linked to a set of multiple sizes of bars sold by Offshore and there are no specs for what is in the set. Offshore was not able to confirm that such a bar is in that set.

I think it would be worth a try to turn down a regular bar and see how close you could get to 1.8 mm before it becomes uselessly fragile. Even if you could only thin it half way it would be that much less that the bracelet has to be modified.

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OK, I've got one on order. When it gets here, I'll try to do a walk through of how I fix them by widening the springbar holder. The other method, used by JMB, drills out material to fit the springbar in. I've used both, and both bracelets are holding up remarkably well.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The hinged rear pieces of the clasp are thinner than the same sections on my gen oyster bracelet. I'm guessing these got bent at some point or were fabricated incorrectly resulting in an incorrect curvature which in turn has altered the effective length which is turn (take a breath) has effected the friction clip that holds the clasp closed. A simple problem but once bent into the correct shape those hinged pieces will never regain their original strength which may result in your beautiful vintage piece dropping from your wrist. Not worth the risk IMO. It's going back and I'll save a few more bucks for a gen

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not to disagree, but that is not the case. If you think of the end link part as the springbar holder, it is shaped roughly like a figure 8, with the opening at the middle point of the eight. Stretching one side of that eight, making one loop (that which holds the springbar) larger, you are actually making the end link fit looser. It still may weaken it, but it does not tighten the end link fit. I'll see if I can take some pics to illustrate it.

I have a real nice rivet bracelet that came on a rep I bought. Ive never had a yuki to compare it with, but I have many rep rivet's and this is the only one with genuine construction like the yuki has.

I made the mistake of trying to open the holes to accept 2mm bars. I used a tiny punch and just slowly forced it through. I got the bars in, and when I installed it on a watch, the endlink fit is all wrong. The endllinks fit perfect before I did this :( I sent it along with some other work to Jmb and he manipulated them and got them better, but they are still off. Such a dissapointment! This is a really nice bracelet too. It's a stretch fit with spings that my jeweler had resized for me the correct way with pins too.

I implore you to not do what I did, you might be lucky but you'd be better off sending it to Jmb or someone to drill out.

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